Tie rod replacement???
08-19-2005, 02:41 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Tie rod replacement???
Okay
So my steering rack is leaking (typical) so I need to replace it.... So I will replace the rack with a rebuilt one and change the little copper seals on the power steering hoses at the same time. Do I need to change the tie rods too? The tie rods looked fine to me (when I found the rack leak), but I also don't know what a bad tie rod looks like either? My 88S4 has 88,600 miles on it and as far as I know the tie rods have never been changed? Is there an easy way to test the existing tie rods to see if they need replacing? I would just hate to replace the rack, then have to replace the tie rods next year! I figure its about $150 for new tie rod assemblies....one of those "while your doing it do this too things?"
Thanks
Brian
So my steering rack is leaking (typical) so I need to replace it.... So I will replace the rack with a rebuilt one and change the little copper seals on the power steering hoses at the same time. Do I need to change the tie rods too? The tie rods looked fine to me (when I found the rack leak), but I also don't know what a bad tie rod looks like either? My 88S4 has 88,600 miles on it and as far as I know the tie rods have never been changed? Is there an easy way to test the existing tie rods to see if they need replacing? I would just hate to replace the rack, then have to replace the tie rods next year! I figure its about $150 for new tie rod assemblies....one of those "while your doing it do this too things?"
Thanks
Brian
08-19-2005, 02:56 PM
#2
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With 88,6K on the clock.....get new ones. If you get them done later you will most likely need a new alignment again, might as well get it done all at once and not have to worry again for a long time. I've never really seen a tie-rod on a Porsche that was worth putting back on after about 60-70k miles.
08-19-2005, 11:47 PM
#4
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Well, sure, I agree the general best answer would be to change them WYAIT, but I'll be the contrarian... My original tie rods are fine at 150K. They are easy to check. They are no easier to change with the rack out (unlike say, doing the motor mounts while doing the pan gasket or vice versa). The only part of the alignment you need is front toe and there are common DIY ways to check that.
08-20-2005, 12:17 PM
#5
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Bill
Thats what I was thinking....you & Gerry have over 150K on yours with no problems? Since you can replace the tie rods without pulling the rack.....then I'll skip replacing them! Of course the Griffiths website says to replace them, assuming you bought the rack and tie rods from them of course!
Brian
Thats what I was thinking....you & Gerry have over 150K on yours with no problems? Since you can replace the tie rods without pulling the rack.....then I'll skip replacing them! Of course the Griffiths website says to replace them, assuming you bought the rack and tie rods from them of course!
Brian
08-20-2005, 02:36 PM
#6
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Brian:
Let's really look them over closely when we slap your bellypans back on.
Also, my view is contrary and the other guys have the bulk of common sense in their favor, so I honestly have no problem at all with replacing the tie rods. I generally follow conventional wisdom, but I offer up the contrary view when the arguments are not real strong. So, it's kinda like replacing the rack boots - yes, you probably should do them, but if they are in very good shape....
Let me know when you want to come over. Tomorrow is OK.
Let's really look them over closely when we slap your bellypans back on.
Also, my view is contrary and the other guys have the bulk of common sense in their favor, so I honestly have no problem at all with replacing the tie rods. I generally follow conventional wisdom, but I offer up the contrary view when the arguments are not real strong. So, it's kinda like replacing the rack boots - yes, you probably should do them, but if they are in very good shape....
Let me know when you want to come over. Tomorrow is OK.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 08-20-2005 at 08:47 PM.
08-20-2005, 08:30 PM
#7
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Brian,
Just got my rack through Griffith's, By way of 928 specialists. I decided to do the tie rods as well. The whole setup has lasted 26 years and 62K. Hopefully I'll do this next weekend and It'll last another 26yrs/62k. Not that much more to replace the Tie rods. Just do it man, your shark deserves it!!
Just got my rack through Griffith's, By way of 928 specialists. I decided to do the tie rods as well. The whole setup has lasted 26 years and 62K. Hopefully I'll do this next weekend and It'll last another 26yrs/62k. Not that much more to replace the Tie rods. Just do it man, your shark deserves it!!
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08-21-2005, 05:21 PM
#8
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Chuck
The more I think about, the more I am leaning towards replacing the tie rods....an extra $150 in the scheme of 928 ownership really isn't much. I intend on keeping my 928 (& driving it!) for a very long time.... I can't stand the thought of not doing the job right...& the right way is to do the tie rods too! And get an alignment....but I might try to DIY method first! So I might end up with lots of good condition old parts (tie rods-rack boots-etc)....just like my oil thermostat...I bought the whole thing...both parts and springs...when just the springs would have worked fine....but its keeping the car runnning perfectly for the long term is the goal!
Brian
The more I think about, the more I am leaning towards replacing the tie rods....an extra $150 in the scheme of 928 ownership really isn't much. I intend on keeping my 928 (& driving it!) for a very long time.... I can't stand the thought of not doing the job right...& the right way is to do the tie rods too! And get an alignment....but I might try to DIY method first! So I might end up with lots of good condition old parts (tie rods-rack boots-etc)....just like my oil thermostat...I bought the whole thing...both parts and springs...when just the springs would have worked fine....but its keeping the car runnning perfectly for the long term is the goal!
Brian
08-21-2005, 08:39 PM
#9
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Replacing the tie rod assemblies is fine; however, I'm in Bill's camp on the basis that both the inner and outer joints are wear items. If the respective boots have not ruptured ( allowing water and grit in) and they pass the 'no play' test for wear - they are literally as good as new.
The tie rods passed the test in my 60KKm S4, so stayed in place when the rack was replaced ( twice
).
The tie rods passed the test in my 60KKm S4, so stayed in place when the rack was replaced ( twice
).
08-21-2005, 11:41 PM
#10
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Garth,
I Understand what you're saying and respect that For most people, no sense in throwing away good money.
In my case, I'm thinking ok, my car is 26 years old, it's in pretty good shape, better than a lot of S4's I've been looking at lately. So when I'm in there I'm in the mindset that while I'm at it I may as well replace part X while I'm replacing something related to it. It's just plain "old" and the last thing I want to do is go in there again and jack with something I've already been in to.
My last big project went from just replacing a thermostat, to doing the rusty waterneck, all hoses, belts, all vac lines, HO powersteering pump, all new power steering lines, powdercoated my OB belly pan, new temp sender, new temp switch on radiator, cold start valve, the list goes on and on. Had the 79 off the road for a year. Yes, I went a little overboard but man, I'll be old and gray before I should have to replace any of that stuff again. Now granted everytime I grabbed something it seemed to crumble in my hand, but some of the stuff was working and I could have just cleaned it up and put it back in. I just felt better replacing most of those parts. Piece of mind I guess you could say.
Just my own opinion, and now, I'll get off my soapbox.
Brian, BTW, good luck with your rack. I hope to have mine done by the end of next weekend so I can start on my TBWP.
I Understand what you're saying and respect that For most people, no sense in throwing away good money.
In my case, I'm thinking ok, my car is 26 years old, it's in pretty good shape, better than a lot of S4's I've been looking at lately. So when I'm in there I'm in the mindset that while I'm at it I may as well replace part X while I'm replacing something related to it. It's just plain "old" and the last thing I want to do is go in there again and jack with something I've already been in to.
My last big project went from just replacing a thermostat, to doing the rusty waterneck, all hoses, belts, all vac lines, HO powersteering pump, all new power steering lines, powdercoated my OB belly pan, new temp sender, new temp switch on radiator, cold start valve, the list goes on and on. Had the 79 off the road for a year. Yes, I went a little overboard but man, I'll be old and gray before I should have to replace any of that stuff again. Now granted everytime I grabbed something it seemed to crumble in my hand, but some of the stuff was working and I could have just cleaned it up and put it back in. I just felt better replacing most of those parts. Piece of mind I guess you could say.
Just my own opinion, and now, I'll get off my soapbox.
Brian, BTW, good luck with your rack. I hope to have mine done by the end of next weekend so I can start on my TBWP.
08-22-2005, 01:34 AM
#11
Hi,
mine had play on the inner ball that is under the rack boots...
my rack boots were torn up when I got the car and this probably ruined the tie rods and the rack... I think that were only 56 bucks each... only twice the price of the boots...
I would replace.... I did as the griffiths website suggests and installed them to a new rack while holding the rack shaft in soft aluminum jaws... Some do not think that this is neccesarry... not sure... i did it the griffiths way because it seemed easy enough... My thoughs are that cleanliness is key inside the boots... so if you have to replace the tie rods later I would imagine that the rack should come out so you can keep it all clean and also torque the tie rods without turning the rack against the rack gear... again only important if it is dirty and if you beleive the griffiths website... seemed like sound advise... and my rack seems like it is working well.. no leaks...
LO
mine had play on the inner ball that is under the rack boots...
my rack boots were torn up when I got the car and this probably ruined the tie rods and the rack... I think that were only 56 bucks each... only twice the price of the boots...
I would replace.... I did as the griffiths website suggests and installed them to a new rack while holding the rack shaft in soft aluminum jaws... Some do not think that this is neccesarry... not sure... i did it the griffiths way because it seemed easy enough... My thoughs are that cleanliness is key inside the boots... so if you have to replace the tie rods later I would imagine that the rack should come out so you can keep it all clean and also torque the tie rods without turning the rack against the rack gear... again only important if it is dirty and if you beleive the griffiths website... seemed like sound advise... and my rack seems like it is working well.. no leaks...
LO
08-22-2005, 07:55 PM
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
At least my rack is leaking slowly....barely moved on my last mini road trip...so I can put it off for a little while...hopefully I get it fixed next month! Rack-boots-seals-tierods! Oh well its only money, if I don't spend it the wife will :>)
Brian
Brian
