mpesik

Hi there,
after replacing my Timing Belt and WaterPump I've noticed a lack of get up and go. This is frustrating! Would anyone know possibly why? -and- No I'm not on any hallucinagenic Drugs.

jebdog

How about maybe you disconnected the hall signal generator behind the passenger cam gear? that retards the ignition timing? also the vacumn solenoid for the flappy valve may have hoses reversed or wire disconnected.

the flyin' scotsman

QUOTE=mpesik]Hi there,
after replacing my Timing Belt and WaterPump I've noticed a lack of get up and go. This is frustrating! Would anyone know possibly why? -and- No I'm not on any hallucinagenic Drugs.[/QUOTE]

Mike...........I'm in he 'hood this weekend..............wanta see what yours does against mine?..............your buying right?

Jim_H

They would probably make your Shark feel quite a bit faster.

Well from what I hear anyway.

mpesik

Hello jebdog,
no nothing appears disconnected and I never found it necessary to disconnect the Hall Sensor.
thanks.

mpesik

Mike...........I'm in he 'hood this weekend..............wanta see what yours does against mine?..............your buying right? [/QUOTE]

Malcolm, this Saturday I'm leaving for BC you won't be Home then?
mike

SharkSkin

Double-check the cam timing... Maybe it looks fine, but you may have mounted the crank pointer backwards. That's what I call "The Heinrich Maneuver".

docmirror

Yep, that little red timing mark can go on either way DOH! The timing mark on the center cover is a good quick check. Line it up then look at the notch in the BACK of the cam gears. It should be perfect - perfect. If it's close, then it's not right.

Doc

mpesik

Sharkskin and docmirror, I'm aware of the Red pointer on the waterpump- never used it! Only went by notches behind the came gears. Please enlighten me on the Procedure and the 1-4 gear was off by amost a Graduation!
What would be the easiest fix here? Please don't tell me I have to take the belt off!
thanks fella's.
mike

Gretch

Ummmmmm you hafta take the belt off.......or at least loosen it to where your pants fall down, That much I know. (My first thought was cam timing also).

docmirror

Uh, what's a "Graduation"? When I said the timing notch must be perfect - perfect, that means the notch(s) must line up with the tick mark on the rear plate of the cam gear shroud. If you are off one 'tooth', that's way too much, and is causing your poor performance.

Pass side being off one tooth advance or retard? If it is off one tooth, I don't think there is sufficient slack when the tensioner is all the way loose to jump the belt over the cam gear. Besides, that's considered bad form by most mechanics. You will want to proceed as follows:

Remove both left and right dist and cam covers. Loosen the tension a bit, put your right hand tightly over the drivers side belt and cam gear. DO NOT move this hand! With you right thumb, press down on the slack in the belt as you loosen the belt tension some more. Have a helper put a wrench or socket over the pass side cam gear bolt, and carfully slip the belt off the front of the pass side gear. Now the helper can rotate the gear one tooth to align the notch, and then slip the belt back on the gear. Retention, and run it around two revs by hand to check.

If you are lucky, the belt will stay aligned with the crank, try to keep modest tension on the belt as it is slid off the pass side gear. Triple check the alignment before final tighten and adjustment.

Doc

mpesik

Thanks docmirror, will do.-Graduation tooth to tooth.
Funny Gretch- It was Horrors getting that belt on-really!

mark kibort

just did a quicky re-do and had to dig into the tensioner to replace a washer. anyway, turned the crank to 45 degrees, pulled off both cam covers, after stuff had moved, rotated driver side so it all lined up. use a wrench to rotate cam on driver side to give tension to the belt vs the crank. when thats set, its set, THEN, got to the passenger side,and rotate the cam back and forth to get the belt to fit on and have the marks line up. this one is a little harder do to the system having tension. when its on, make sure its right on! then, you just tigten the tensioner and rotate the crank to TDC and recheck. rotate 2 revs check, and you are good to go
MK

dr bob

After doing this dance a week or two ago, I think that you will have no problem with the Mark K method. It's pretty much what I discovered on my own when lining up the gears. Foolproof even for me!

-- Set the engine at top center on the #1 compression stroke. Lock the crank in place there.

-- Back off the tensioner bolt all the way, but don't take the bolt out 'cuz the tensioner oil will fall out.

-- Get out the 30mm socket to put tension on the belt via the can gear. On the driver's side (left side of car looking from rear...) torn the cam in the counterclockwise direction and verify that the notches line up. If yes, goto Passenger side cam description below.

-- If not, put your wrench on the pass side (right side on US cars looking from the rear..) and rotate the cam clockwise as far as possible. Go back to the driver's side cam.

-- If the cam gear notch is to the left of the backing plate notch, turn the gear clockwise to get slack in the belt between the cam and the crank. Walk the belt up a tooth on the cam gear, then use the wrench to again turn the cam counterclockwise and verify that the marks line up. If they do, go to the pass side gear description below. If not, repeat this step.

-- If the cam gear notch is to the right of the backing plate notch, turn the gear counterclockwise to get slack in the belt between the two cams. Walk the belt up a tooth on the cam gear, then use the wrench to again turn the cam counterclockwise and verify that the marks line up. If they do, go to the pass side gear description below. If not, repeat this step.

Passenger side cam gear:

With the drivers side cam gear indexed and confirmed, put your 30mm wrench on the passenger side gear and turn it counterclockwise. All the slack in the belt should be on the lower side of the left side cam now, and the belt between the crank and the drivers side gear and the section between the passenger side gear and and the drivers side gear should all be tight. Drivers side gear is still in position, so look now at pass side gear to see where the notch is. If it's OK, tension the belt with the tensioner, verify that the marks still line up.

-- If the cam mark is to the left of the mark on the housing, turn the cam clockwise to put a little slack in the belt section between the two cams. Walk the belt back over the gear, then rotate the cam counterclockwise to take out the slack and verify that the notches line up. If so, tension the belt some with the tensioner and verify the notches line up.

-- If the cam mark is to the right of the mark on the housing, turn the can counterclockwise to put the slack in the section between the cam gear and the tensioner. Walk the belt back over the gear. Turn the can counterclockwise again and verify that the notches line up. If so, tension the belt some with the tensioner, and verify again that the notches are still lined up.


** It's very important that you not move the can gears much when the engine is at TDC. If you made or can see the factory marks at the 45 degree point on the can gears made during the original session, do this whole thing at 45 using those marks. Much safer!