Well, after finally getting the water leak fixed (pump replaced) and finally being able to drive my shark again on the way home the transmission all of a sudden stopped shifting and now I can only drive in first gear or reverse. I had the fluid replaced at Devek about 2500 miles ago. I am hoping this isn't a disaster!! Any ideas? Mark

 

Mark:

Who did the WP? Did they take out the radiator during the job (not needed but some do this for better access)? If so, you may be low on fluid, although I haven't seen this problem from the little bit of loss from the radiator removal. At least with an 87 you can almost get to freeway speed in 1st!

Check the tranny fluid - you can use a mirror and flashlight if you know where to look and it's not too grimy up there. The level should be right near the top when warm/hot, it will drop to a mark about 1/3rd of the way down from the top of the reservoir when cold. Not much of a delta (6 oz) between min and max.

Hopefully Steve Caettano is reading and will give a more informed idea. Pray it is the fluid level and not a pump or the one-way clutch. The centrifugal governor we could service. But I would check the fluid level and maybe throw in some tranny "conditioner" that may free up a stuck clutch or shift valve. It worked in my car when it no longer would drop into first.

 

Check your kickdown switch under the gas pedal. If it is bad it will make the car hold 1st gear until you get to high RPM's.

 

Mark
Kickdown switch??? That makes sense....okay this is risky...try running it to redline in first gear (don't have to floor it sense the kickdown switch is already down, thinking its floored)....if it shifts into second...then you found your problem....

BUT I would check the fluid level first! Check the radiator cooling tank to make sure its atttached properly and the lines aren't leaking. Since it malfunctioned right after repairing the waterpump....its very possible a line wasn't connected and all your fluid leaked out?
Brian

 

The WP was done at Devek and I drove the car about 100 miles prior to this happening. I'll check the kick-down switch but I don't think that is the culprit... So I am not sure I understand, is some of the tranny fluid passed through a part of the radiator?
Another piece of information: while I was driving it home after this happened, I tried a lot of things to get to shift, such as moving the shift lever, I also rev'ed it up to around 5800 rpm, no shift. The other thing I noticed was there didn't seem to be any engine breaking. Normally in first I noticed a significant amount of engine breaking when I take my foot off the gas. Now the car seems to coast and the rev's drop down immediately.... Mark

 

Mark:

The quickly dropping rpm's and coasting-without-engine-braking symptoms you're describing are identical to what my auto transmission will do whenever my kickdown bypass switch is turned "on". I agree with the suggestion that you inspect your kickdown switch and related wiring.

Try taking the car up to 6000 rpm. If the kickdown is stuck on, the car should switch to second before it redlines.

 

I'd check the fluid level before anything else. If you are low on fluid you could burn up the trans trying to figure out why it's not working. Fixing a small leak (assuming that's why it's low) and topping off is cheaper than replacing the trans.

-Joel.

 

"The quickly dropping rpm's and coasting-without-engine-braking symptoms you're describing are identical to what my auto transmission will do whenever my kickdown bypass switch is turned "on". I agree with the suggestion that you inspect your kickdown switch and related wiring."

Mine does the same thing when i have my kickdown bypass switch engaged.

I'd also suggest checking the kickdown switch.

 

Unhook the kickdown switch plug. See if that helps. Hopefully these guys are right - it fits the symptoms. If not, I can come by this weekend.

 

Ignition ON, Engine NOT running, gear selector in "D", push the acellerator all the way down to activate the kickdown relay. You should hear a "klick", if you don't hear anything either the kickdown switch or the realy is stuck or faulty.

 

... as Bill said, pull the rugs back at the base of the gas pedal - and pull off the two wire connector from the kickdown switch: a very easy & safe trial.
Redline may be more fun - but I'd not go there until a few other things are checked out .

 

Yes I must agree the kick-down switch is the first order of business! I'll try that out right after work tonight! So kick-down switch has a relay? Should I also try removing it, if unplugging the switch doesn't do the trick? M

 

Yeah, pull relay XV too - it could be stuck.

http://www.nichols.nu/tip752.htm

 

Mark,
Not that all autos are identical, but I also have a kickdown bypass wired in on my '88 S4; I can leave it switched on ( same as a failed kickdown switch, since the latter are normally open), and all gear shifting/engine braking/etc remains unchanged - only the ease of down shifting changes.
Interrested in what you determine this PM ...

 

So I didn't disconnect the kick-down switch, but simply tried driving the car and the transmission is operating as usual. So I then drove it around for 10 minutes, found a level spot, put the car in "N" with the ebrake on and checked the ATF fluid level... WHAT A TOTAL PITA!!!!! Well, surprise! it's quite low... below the cold level mark... Filling is going to be even MORE FUN, I can tell... So since the level is about half-way between the bottom of the reseviour and the low level mark, anyone care to suggest how much ATF Fluid I should put in to start with? thanks, Mark