perrys4

I hope Jim B. isnt still adding up the costs that this will require! Us rookies need more info. How many lines are there? Easy or difficult? How much?

Bill Ball

The hose loop part of that #25 fuel line is very hard to begin with, isn't it? It's pretty stiff in my 89 and on an 88 I looked at today. And with the SC kits that have a large intake runner routed down the passenger side and squeezed under the cross bar, such as on my car, there is some downward pressure on the metal portion of this line, perhaps straining the loop, but I don't think this is significant. Time for an inspection anyway.

There is a similar loop, although less rigid, between the FPR and the damper in the rear.

borland

Here's a list of pressurized fuel lines on the S4/GT/GTS.

Engine compartment

928.110.367.15 fuel line $82.50
928.110.359.08 fuel line $35.00
928.110.271.02 fuel line $81.00
928.110.269.01 fuel line $25.00 (still back ordered from Germany)

fuel tank

928.356.555.04 fuel hose $19.05
928.356.053.01 fuel hose $105.76

Roughly $385 plus tax, shipping. Then if your mechanic installs them, that's another $300 in labor cause they aren't all that easy to replace, so were talking over $700 for peace of mind.

borland
90' S4

Bill Ball

Thanks for the list, borland.

Sharks

Sterling, now that you mention it in both of my 86.5 cars the "Y" connector in the vapor canister hose were broken when I purchase the cars. I didn't think much of it a few years ago when I replace the one on my auto trans car until I dropped the passenger fender liner last week on my manual trans car and that one was cracked too. I would venture to guess that this "Y" connector failure is common on many of our cars since both of mine were broken. May be a good part to add to the requested fuel line kits that were mentioned.

Warren928

It sounds like some shark owners are using aftermarket lines? I think someone said they are using stainless steel braided lines, nice!
What I.D. is used for fuel lines?
Anyone using aircraft style compression hose fittings with their braided lines?
What thread pitch and size works on the 928? How many are needed?

This is what I want to do in the near future:
Develop or buy a fuel line setup with some other rennlisters to make for a VERY safe fuel line system. Do it in all stainless braided, and can have metal tubular sections too. I have some catalogs with all the aircraft plumbing hardware to do the job, I just need the specifications on lengths, sizes and thread pitches and I can figure out an approximate cost as an FYI.

jyoon

is there any reason to replace the metal fuel lines or is it just the rubber we're talking about here?

deliriousga

Just the rubber for most of them. There are two mentioned by Tony and Bill in the 32V engines that have the rubber loop permanently attached (not clamped like most of the other hoses) to the end of a metal tube with a connector at the other end. I don't think you can replace the rubber on those without getting the whole part. Please correct me if anyone knows of a way to just replace the rubber in that part or if there is another line that has the rubber permanently attached to the metal line.

MBMB

I've got my engine compartment fuel lines to do the replacement job soon. Any special advice ("save the celebratory Cuban cigar for afterwards"), torque values or tools I need to know about?

Thanks.

T_MaX

I knew of a company in Fl that made assy.'s like this for the Big 3 (GM, Diam. and Ford), but they closed their doors as the completion from China finally took it's toll on their profits!

It's really a shame, as I had a good working relationship with the plant manager and could have scored the needed hose and install instructions with little more than an email.

I will do some asking around to see who else in the US is doing these assemblies.

Sab

Just a word of caution regarding tinkering with your fuel lines.
My car cought on fire as well after a supercharger install two weeks ago.
Fortunately the shop owner who was doing some final adjustments at the time heard the fire ignite and had it extinguished within seconds. The only damage some soot over the fuel rail and a scorched hood insulation pad.
Since mine did not burn to a crisp as many others we where able to trace the source of the fire. After we had a fuel gauge on the passenger fuel rail and put stock ball and cap back on, it aparently did not seal properly even after torquing it down tight. We ended up replacing fuel rail, cap and ball and it is all fine now. I am very thankfull, it could have been much worse. BUT I think that all these fires after supercharging are not due to the aging fuel lines, but rather leaks after tinkering with all the fittings.
We did two cars at once and the other also had a small leak at the rear of the engine, which did not catch on fire and was fixed.
All it takes is a very small leak and perfect mixture to ignite. After it is burned to a crisp, it's easy to blame an old line...
YMMV

Warren928

After some time has passed on this topic, have there been some new discoveries?

1. Possibly that there are a couple hoses that would most likely cause a fire due to their close proximity to high heat, (besides #25 as Tony shows) where others are more likely to just leak?

Shane, which hoses would you replace that appear to be in jeopardy of fire from a leak? How is your car coming along?

Shane

928.110.367.14 This is the line from the passenger side fuel rail that goes across the front of the engine to the front dampner.
928.110.271.00 This one is the connection line between the rear dampner and regulator.
928.110.269.01 Also a short connection hose.

These are the three that were available when I ordered them last spring. The others I will have to have made locally. But I'm not going to run any old hoses on my cars any longer than I have to.

HTH

My cars are hibernating right now as I'm still in Alaska. I'm due out of here on the 11th of Oct, then I'll be getting my Red 5sp ready for the trip to Sharktoberfest. Should be boosted with a Vortec when I get there.