SharkSkin

Alan... were there Porsche part numbers(or mfr P/N) on the adjusters?

Alan

Dave,
There were... and they were Porsche 928.xxx... numbers - but I'm not sure I have a Photo of it (@ home) & I did not write it down.

Right now they are buried in the car. Bill can you take a look at yours if they are handy?

Alan

Red UFO

I just got this reply from the THE PORSCHESHOP


It is very common for this item to fail so would not recommend one from
a breakers the price for a new one complete is £ 188.00 plus vat and
would be a 2-3 days

Please Email us or call 0121 585 6088 if you want to order or need more
help

-----------------------

What is for the tube version. What does he mean by plus the vat?

Alan

Tom,
Aha! VAT = Value Added Tax. European countries do not levy sales tax just something called VAT - and usually at 17.5% (YES!)

If you are exporting something outside the EU you can often reclaim the VAT (for example at the airport on departure)... you might want to ask about any options to avoid VAT - if they are shipping direct to you in the USA this may be an option... worth asking, also worth asking if you can get a VAT reclaim form from them?

The Europeans really know how to Tax you...

The only good news is that its usually already included in any published or posted prices so it doesn't seem to hurt quite so bad...

Tube version presumably means Hydraulic - you need Electric. BTW 188 pounds = approx $350 (each?).

I paid 75pds for a pair and pot/**** (25pds each part)

As for failure - what did you expect them to say...? I'll take my chances...

Alan

Alan

Tom,
This is where I got mine Douglas Valley Breakers

You have to email or call.

I dealt with Steve Strange - but he wasn't that strange - good service & quick ship.

I would not recommend sourcing any parts from the UK or Europe in general due to exchange rate & shipping - way too expensive - but for parts like this - no real choice....

Alan

Red UFO

Alan,

This would go in my 85 Euro. It has the **** but I have to take that area apart and see what it was before. I'll email them back to see if they have electric. Is there a big 3 in Europe? or Big 1 or what?

Did they start electric on 88? I think that would last longer than hydraulic, especially in AZ.

You'd think, somebody could 'Monster Garage' this whole job. Get a the **** if you don't have one, get some small motors, machine them to work like you did and hook it up.

It couldn't be much harder than the motorola robotics with assembly language class, no?

Alan

Tom,
As I noted in another reply - the system seems over complex - to replicate this exact behaviour would be very hard - much easier methods seem possible though - but there is still some added compexity in keeping both headlights relative positions locked. Its also still a challenging location to work in and attachment/fit prob needs to match factory. It is exposed to the elements so needs to be well sealed up. So a DIY one off probably could never be cheaper... don't see there is demand for a lot - there are not enough masochists to go around. (but welcome to the club anyway!)

BTW - I checked my invoice - I paid no VAT as the invoice was marked - "Parts for direct export to USA" Ask for the same.

Alan

blown 87

TTT for those doing this conversion.

blown 87

Has any one installed the electric adjuster motors on a pre 90?
It looks like the supporting arms are a different part number.
I wonder if they changed the arm to get clearance for the motors in 90.

Alan

I'm not sure - but I really don't see any reason why they wouldn't fit on the old yokes.

I'd try it before swapping them out.

Alan

blown 87

I have a 89 that is going to be the mock up car for the lights and harness, the motor is out, so that will make it a lot easier to do. I dread taking the fenders off, man they glue and bolt them on, almost to the point that you could take all the bolts out and they would stay on.

If we can come up with the ends, with the correct color wires if Wurht has it and it is not a fortune to buy, I will make up a couple harness if others if they need them.

I have to get Dans GT and Carlos stroker done before I can start on it though.

blown 87

Ok guys, home now and have some time to think and do some planing for my conversion.
I have been looking at the Hella website for relays, gang boxes, or wire holders, etc, here is a link to download of Hella relays and relay products.

http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hell...elays_2008.pdf

I plan to use a relay for each filament on the head lamps and driving/fog lights so I will have a total of eight on each side.

Even with 130 watt motorcycle bulbs it will only pull around 12 amps, so a good Hella 20 amp relay should be fine, I am going to use the fused 25 amp ones. (I will have to cut the mounting tab off of these) or use a non fused one with a resistor and a fuse block.

Does any one see a need for a diode or resistor in the relay circuit?

I did not use any resistors on my Chevelle or Corvette with the Euro lamps, and they work fine.

Thoughts on any of this?

PS, got my new H4's and they look really good.
I may get in a hurry to have them installed and come in Sunday to install them.

Alan

Why are you taking the fenders off?

No need for diodes or extra resistors.

Alan

blown 87

I am trying to build a dry sump tank and need at least the passenger side fender off for fitting.

After looking at the relays I have on the other two cars, I think I am going to use a standard relay because a resetting circuit breaker is not going to fit in that relay, inside the gang box.

I plan to come right off of the alternator hot post to pick up the main power for the relays, do you see any problems with doing that?

That way I do not have to have any visible mods to the engine compartment.

I figure some good 10-12 gauge wire (2), one for each side to power the headlamps/fog or driving lights, then no bigger than 12 to each light.


What are your thoughts on this Alan, about breaker and wire sizes, and any other thoughts.

BTW, Painless Wiring has a neat bulkhead fitting that I may install in the firewall at some point, as I doubt I can get many more wires through the boot for the engine wiring harness that goes through the firewall.
I have been looking for a aircraft cannon plug that would meet our needs for this, but have not really found anything yet.

blown 87

I had at least one set of adapters that plugged into the existing wiring harness for the headlamps, IE the female, on the car part that goes into the headlamp, that was a male end that was used to facilitate using relays to power the headlamps.
Does any one have any idea where to get these now?

Also the four prong female headlamp connectors?
Yes, I know you can bend or cut the city light prong off, but I wonder if there is a source for them?