Dry sumping
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dry sumping
Hi to all, I have just purchased my dry sump pump and lines, the pump is a 6 stage scavenge, I will utilize the standard oil pump for the pressure side, my plans are this, 4 stages in the sump, perhaps compartmentized, 2 stages for the heads. The oil reserviour shall be in the sump ala BMW M3 &5, but with the defoaming and settlement tank taking the place or the majority of the space of the large water squirter bottle. That tank will be made from carbon fibre, I will try to mould it from the water bottle. I shall have a couple of litres storage in the settlement tank also. That will be a total of eight litres.
The pump shall be placed where the air conditioning compressor currently resides. The air pump shall be discarded and a smaller air conditioning compressor placed in that location. The pump weighs 13 lb or nearly 6 kgs, the hoses are lightweight XRP.
I would also love to do away with all these drive belts, Just look how neat the BMW V10 is, wouldn't a sepentine belt be great, I know I couldn't use it for the dry sump but for the other things it would be great!
I have sold my current motor, a euro 2 valve and will replace it with another one in the short term, but with the replacement I will have the heads done, run a Motec, and build some fancy headers and exhaust. This I will then reuse when the other big motor is eventually a reality. I think 400 hp is achievable with the euro. My friend has estimated 350 flywheel hp running a Haltech with shaved heads and oversize high comp pistons. I know when I built my headers last time I achieved a gain in peak power of 13%.
So I figure that will be realistic, any thoughts? I think 400 hp should make a big difference, especially when it is done by increasing airflow and maximising effiencies. Not just by a big cam. The good part about this is that it will be definately done this year barring castastrophies. I had my fair share of those.
As to hooking up my PSD, I think I will just run the bolt setup for now, I don't have the time to hook up the electronics and from what I know it may be a questionable result anyway.
The pump shall be placed where the air conditioning compressor currently resides. The air pump shall be discarded and a smaller air conditioning compressor placed in that location. The pump weighs 13 lb or nearly 6 kgs, the hoses are lightweight XRP.
I would also love to do away with all these drive belts, Just look how neat the BMW V10 is, wouldn't a sepentine belt be great, I know I couldn't use it for the dry sump but for the other things it would be great!
I have sold my current motor, a euro 2 valve and will replace it with another one in the short term, but with the replacement I will have the heads done, run a Motec, and build some fancy headers and exhaust. This I will then reuse when the other big motor is eventually a reality. I think 400 hp is achievable with the euro. My friend has estimated 350 flywheel hp running a Haltech with shaved heads and oversize high comp pistons. I know when I built my headers last time I achieved a gain in peak power of 13%.
So I figure that will be realistic, any thoughts? I think 400 hp should make a big difference, especially when it is done by increasing airflow and maximising effiencies. Not just by a big cam. The good part about this is that it will be definately done this year barring castastrophies. I had my fair share of those.
As to hooking up my PSD, I think I will just run the bolt setup for now, I don't have the time to hook up the electronics and from what I know it may be a questionable result anyway.
Last edited by slate blue; 05-30-2005 at 06:02 AM.
#2
Tell us how it goes and then make a kit
#5
Three Wheelin'
Your dry sump looks/sounds sweet!
An otherwise completely stock 84 4.7L Euro is putting down 275 at the rear wheels with headers and a 'fancy' exhaust.
350 at the flywheel is the same as 296 rwhp, which by the way, is the same power the racers on the east coast are putting out with their 5.0L bottom-end Euros.
The difference between 296 rwhp and 275 rwhp is 21 rwhp, so the question is, is 21 addtional rwhp worth all that extra time and money? I would have to say 'no', unless of course one blew up their motor and had to replace/rebuild it anyway.
400 crank hp is 340 rwhp. I do not think it possible to get another 40+ rwhp without using a bigger cam in addion to porting the heads, and using a 5.0L bottom-end. The only 16v cam bigger than the 84 Euro S is Devek's, and the entire setup (..cam and springs) is $2,200. How much power do those cams put out? Does anyone have before and after dyno sheets using the Devek 16v cams?
Again, the question must be asked, is it worth all the time and money for just an additional 65 rwhp? (..340 - 275)
On the other hand, roughly the same straight-line performance increase can be had for free by removing 650 lbs from the car, not to mention improved braking and handling that accompanies the change.
Originally Posted by Greg Gray
I have sold my current motor, a euro 2 valve and will replace it with another one in the short term, but with the replacement I will have the heads done, run a Motec, and build some fancy headers and exhaust. This I will then reuse when the other big motor is eventually a reality. I think 400 hp is achievable with the euro. My friend has estimated 350 flywheel hp running a Haltech with shaved heads and oversize high comp pistons. I know when I built my headers last time I achieved a gain in peak power of 13%.
So I figure that will be realistic, any thoughts?
So I figure that will be realistic, any thoughts?
350 at the flywheel is the same as 296 rwhp, which by the way, is the same power the racers on the east coast are putting out with their 5.0L bottom-end Euros.
The difference between 296 rwhp and 275 rwhp is 21 rwhp, so the question is, is 21 addtional rwhp worth all that extra time and money? I would have to say 'no', unless of course one blew up their motor and had to replace/rebuild it anyway.
I think 400 hp should make a big difference, especially when it is done by increasing airflow and maximising effiencies. Not just by a big cam.
Again, the question must be asked, is it worth all the time and money for just an additional 65 rwhp? (..340 - 275)
On the other hand, roughly the same straight-line performance increase can be had for free by removing 650 lbs from the car, not to mention improved braking and handling that accompanies the change.
#6
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think we shoud have a drysump option out there, regardless the horses. Regarding weight versus small power improvements and their effect on real-world performance, excellent point ... the question is, where to lose the weight best?
#7
Rennlist Member
Bob DeVore, the DEV in DEVEK had developed a dry sump system that is currently used by a few 029 racers.
Simple system, dual scavenging and using the existing oil pump for feed. Very efficient.
Might want to think about this as an option. A few years back, i offered to do a batch of oil pans for this system, but no takers.
Have fun
Marc
Simple system, dual scavenging and using the existing oil pump for feed. Very efficient.
Might want to think about this as an option. A few years back, i offered to do a batch of oil pans for this system, but no takers.
Have fun
Marc
Trending Topics
#8
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Marc, I have interest, and I would love to hear more from you on this. As always there is the issue that new development by a vendor ends up kicking the end-cost over the bar I can reach. I personally thing this will happen. If you made a good drysump pan I would likely bite. Again ... price would have to be reasonable.
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
An otherwise completely stock 84 4.7L Euro is putting down 275 at the rear wheels with headers and a 'fancy' exhaust.
350 at the flywheel is the same as 296 rwhp, which by the way, is the same power the racers on the east coast are putting out with their 5.0L bottom-end Euros.
The difference between 296 rwhp and 275 rwhp is 21 rwhp, so the question is, is 21 addtional rwhp worth all that extra time and money? I would have to say 'no', unless of course one blew up their motor and had to replace/rebuild it anyway.
350 at the flywheel is the same as 296 rwhp, which by the way, is the same power the racers on the east coast are putting out with their 5.0L bottom-end Euros.
The difference between 296 rwhp and 275 rwhp is 21 rwhp, so the question is, is 21 addtional rwhp worth all that extra time and money? I would have to say 'no', unless of course one blew up their motor and had to replace/rebuild it anyway.
So I don't want to move the power band up any higher and I figured this is only an intermediate engine and it would not cost too much money, remember I will build the headers myself and I will look at being able to adapt them to my later 32 valve engine. The Motec is a good addition, it gets away from the LH injection.
#11
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
FBI that is a good question, and a MATTER OF OPINION. I have no doubt that it will eliminate failures permanently though Mark Anderson has experienced failure with a drysump.
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think the only prudent thing to do would be to have a modified crank, or have a stroker crank. I think the high rpm failure is separate from the sucking air type failure.
#14
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I remain interested. I looked Mark Anderson's setup over carefully when i had the privilege of standing under it at his shop, and it is a very simple setup which he explained to me. He has a large cylinder with much oil where our passenger seats are, and a remanufactured oil pan that is flat and a lot less voluminous from what I could see. he scavenges from there into the drysump and the drysump supplies oil to the engine directly. I love that setup. Looks entirely doable. Count me in.