Randy V

I've got a loose instrument display connection in the pod so need to dive in there to take a look.

How do I remove the airbag type steering wheel?

Also, any tips on removing the anti-submarining pad would be helpful.

After that, I should be OK, assuming pod removal on the later models is the same as for the OBs.

Thanks!

Nicole

Hi Randy:

First you need to disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes. Don't start removal sooner.

Then remove the two screws at the back of the steering wheel - they hold the airbag unit in place. I try to remember, but think those are some kind of allen or torx type of screws.

Carefully remove the airbag unit and disconnect the power connectors.

The steering wheel is held on by a 24 mm nut, if I recall correctly (older 928s use a larger nut)

Be very careful to:

- mark the position of the steering wheel before you lift it off
- NOT turn the electrical contact thingie behind it - it only has a certan range to go - if you turn it by one rev and put the wheel back on, it can be overextended when you turn the wheel and break.

The knee pad has some screws at its bottom, and one that holds it to the console. Can't remember the details right now, other than that it took me a while to figure it out. PM me, if you have trouble, and I'll take a closer look. Or look at PET - there you can see all fasteners involved.

Good luck!

Kevin in Atlanta

First, I'd remove the knee pad to get to the back of the cluster. Try this first. I have been able to get to the connectors this way. This avoids the risk of an airbag fault.

Five bolts hold the knee pad in place.
1. Remove 10mm bolt holding the knee from inside dash. You get to it thru the left AC hole. You will need to push the coregated tube to sneak a wrench in there. Use a gear wrench.
2. There is a 10mm bolt a little off cent at the bottom of the knee pad.
3. Remove Driver side console panel to reveal two 13mm bolts.
4. Remove 3mm? allen under the pod dead center last. Remove it and the knee pad is off.


Good luck.

Kevin in Atlanta

Also, I have read, maybe on this forum, that you can remove the pod without pulling the steering wheel. You still have to disconnect the battery because the pod switches can short out if they come in contact with the pod's metal. I lost a harzard switch that way.

ROG100

Randy,
Schocki has a great writeup on how to remove the cluster in 10 mins.
We did it on mine - real easy.
Do a search under Schocki's name.
When you get into the pod let me know and I will try and help. BTDT a few times.
Tell me what is working and not working and I will try and point you in the right direction.
Good luck.
PS: Be sure to mark the 4 connection as you remove them they are numbered on the pod but not on the connector. Be real carefull with the two tabs on each connector, move them slowly as they are liable to break otherwise.

Randy V

Thanks all for the tips!

Roger, I'd sure like to find tat 10 minute version - I'll try a search!

On my car, the following are intermittent - I can get them to work sometimes by moving the pod up/down:

Oil pressure gauge, voltage gauge, gear selector lights.

I'm thinking it is either a loose primary connector on the cluster, or a cracked flexible circuit board. Any suggestions?

ROG100

Randy,
There is no flexible circuit board its a PCB.
Sounds like you have a dry joint somewhere.
We need to find Schocki's writeup on that as well.
Did you find the 10 min removal?
Roger

ROG100

Search for threads started by Schocki.
Then look for "time saving instrument cluster removal" and you will also find "finally oil pressure guage repaired".
Roger

Alan

Randy,
I had just emailed this to someone Friday - Quick Pod Access


Alan

Rich9928p

These are the boards that make the instrument display work and have the "board computer" onboard.

Randy V

Thanks, Alan - I've printed it out and I'm stuck already with his step 1 - "1. Remove the round rubber seal on the driver side dashboard." Perhaps it will become evident when I do some snooping around in that area.

Thanks, Roger - I'll track down that other thread also.

Thanks, Rich - that looks like fun. Hope I don't have to dive in too deep!

ROG100

1. Remove the round rubber seal on the driver side dashboard.
Randy,
Thats the air vent seal on the end of the dashboard. Pull it out and search around just in side and you will find the nut.

Randy V

Ah, got it - thanks, Rog.

I did find that other thread by Schocki:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/149496-finally-oil-pressure-gauge-repaired.html

- but am thinking it may not be my problem as I have other intermittent display problems besides the oil pressure gauge..

ROG100

All the guages seem to have the same solder joints. In mine and Schocki's case it was the oil pressure guage.
It could just as well been the other guages.
I could also move the pod and the guage would work for a while - similar to what you described.
I have a spare pod you could use for trouble shooting. Lets hope it does not go that far.
Roger

Nicole

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but since RIch is heavily involved, I'd like to ask Rich a few somewhat related questions...

If the electronics shown in those pictures ever fail, can those be rebuilt, or is our only choice a $3k part that soon will be no longer available?
Where is the mileage of a 928 stored - is it in this computer inside the instrument panel?
Is a 928 driveable, if that computer fails?

Thanks!