A while back, I had the Torque Tube replaced on my GTS (it snapped). However, the AT shift lever is now not properly aligned with the letters printed on the center console - and since the shop has gone out of business, there is no help to get from that end.
The tranny functions just fine, but the misalignement does not look good.

How to fix? Any concerns that the AT might be installed in an incorrect position which in turn affects the alignment of the shift lever??

Any input and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers / Michael

 

There is a procedure in the workshop manual. basically you disconnect the cable, fit a pin into the operating lever on the side of the 'box, into a hole in the casting. (in neutral I think)

Then you adjust the cable at the box end so it just slips over the ball of the joint.

 

The park lock mechanism is at the shifter lever, so if the alignment of the pointer does not meet with the "park" position, then adjusting the cable may not help. The center console position is fairly fixed to it's position, so you can't move it forward or back.

After removing the shift plate, the shift lever mechanism is set by three bolts thru excentric holes in the shift mechanism. The mechanism is movable back and forth to some degree. This is much easier to adjust than the cable, but you must know the trick of how to remove the shift plate without damage (see WSM).

 

Any more information to be found on this problem? My car has same mis-alignment. Is it an easy fix?

 

Here's what John was describing.

 

I got under the car and could not get the ball socket to pop off the operating lever(the lever actually started to bend). Also I noticed on my 88 that the ball socket is on the side of the lever away from the transmision. Suggestions?

 

IT'S HELD BY A WIRE CLIP! Look carefully and you should see a thin curved wire wrapped over the ball. Or you may be able to feel it if not see it. It snaps down over the ball. Pry it away from the ball then pull it forward along the cable until it comes out of the ball end. It's tiny, easy to lose and hard to get back in. If you want to see how it works, there is an identical clip on one of the cables in the throttle quadrant that is bolted the left side of the intake manifold. After you get the clip off, use a 10mm open end to wedge between the ball and socket.

 

Thanks, with that bit of info the whole job was just 10 minutes. For future users here is some info that might help.

Before you start working under the car remove and replace the throttle cable held by the clip on the throttle body (drivers side) for practice.

Popping the linkage off w/the 10mm wrench worked just as Bill Ball instructed! (Thanks)

The linkage (on drivers side transmission) adjusts with a 8mm and 7mm. I also used a small visegrip to hold the cable for the first turn of adjustment because the threads were frozen/stuck.

Thanks so much for the input and patience w/me. Bit by bit this car gets more dialed in.

 

The WSM procedure assumes that the gear selection pointer aligns with the "N" when placed in the selection lever neutral position with the cable disconnected at the transmission.

Both the pointer mechanism and the transmssion have their own set of "detents". So, if your pointer detent doesn't align with the "N" (as is the case with my 90' S4) and you by following the WSM procedure by setting the pointer aligned to "N" (in between pointer detents), your shift lever will feel funny while shifting between gears.

 

Michael,
Now that you have adjusted the A/T selector lever in "N" to match it with the gear selector "N" position you still need to check and possibly adjust the Starter Locking Switch.

This switch is to prevent the car from moving off unintentionally after starting the engine, and as you know the engine can only be started in "N" or "P", so if it is out of position it can be possible to start the car in "R" or "2".

The starter locking switch, which is also the switch for the reversing lights, is located on the left-hand side of the transmission and is located behind the A/T selector lever and is secured by a set bolt just forward of the lever and another set bolt just after of the lever and directly above the rubber boot for the electrical connection.

First select "N" and check whether a 4 mm drill shank or a 4mm rod can go through the hole in the selector lever just under the ball cap of the connection cable and the Starter Locking Switch. If it cannot go through both holes the Starter Locking Switch needs adjusting

The switch can be adjusted after loosening the forward and aft set bolts and by turning the switch housing around the axis of the A/T selector lever shaft. Rotate the switch until the two 4 mm holes are in line (verified by the 4mm diameter drill shank). Once in line retighten the two set bolts and you are done.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

 

I'd only be concerned with the starter starter interlock switch if it has been disturbed from the factory setting. The WSM procedure for adjusting the interlock switch is independent of the cable and pointer selection positions.

If you adjust the cable per the WSM and notice starting in neutral inoperable, then look at the switch.

 

I set the car to N as instructed before beginning. Ater disconnectiong cable, moved lever in car to "N" where clicked in place, got under car and could see how much adjustment cable needed, adjusted about 3 rotation until alighned snapped on the linkage, checked up top to make sure it was still alligned correctly w/ignition on, then got back under car and added spring clip and tightened everything down. Got car off jack stands and drove in and out of garage and checked that started only in "N" and "P" no problems.