?? Belt Ten Light came on when I accelerated??
05-05-2005, 10:41 PM
#46
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Ok, so what is the exact type of oil that is in the belt tensioner & how exactly do I check the level of the oil??
I looked back at the actual of the receipts of the PO's that I have where Brumos R&R'd the cams, reset the cam timing, realigned the timing belt & repaired the tension light circuit in 09/2002 at 110,863 miles & I currently am at about 123,800+/- miles. Their repairs included the chain tensioner & tension roller. The belt had been installed about six months prior by the other shop & then the car sat for about six months per the PO. Brumos said they checked the belts for me when I had it in 10/2004 at 121,772 miles.
If the belt is supposed to not need replacing until 45,000 miles or 4 years, mine has about 13,000 miles on it & about 3 years. I am hoping that its something less involved than needing the TB & WP replaced, possibly as suggested, the tensioner needing oil.
Perhaps I misunderstood the rep at Brumos today when he was talking about it being low on oil, maybe he was speaking of the tensioner, not the engine itself & I just misunderstood him. Could hard acceleration cause a tensioner that is low on oil to result in loss in tension & thus the Belt Ten light coming on??
I looked back at the actual of the receipts of the PO's that I have where Brumos R&R'd the cams, reset the cam timing, realigned the timing belt & repaired the tension light circuit in 09/2002 at 110,863 miles & I currently am at about 123,800+/- miles. Their repairs included the chain tensioner & tension roller. The belt had been installed about six months prior by the other shop & then the car sat for about six months per the PO. Brumos said they checked the belts for me when I had it in 10/2004 at 121,772 miles.
If the belt is supposed to not need replacing until 45,000 miles or 4 years, mine has about 13,000 miles on it & about 3 years. I am hoping that its something less involved than needing the TB & WP replaced, possibly as suggested, the tensioner needing oil.
Perhaps I misunderstood the rep at Brumos today when he was talking about it being low on oil, maybe he was speaking of the tensioner, not the engine itself & I just misunderstood him. Could hard acceleration cause a tensioner that is low on oil to result in loss in tension & thus the Belt Ten light coming on??
05-05-2005, 11:36 PM
#47
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[QUOTE=MGW-Fla]Ok, so what is the exact type of oil that is in the belt tensioner & how exactly do I check the level of the oil??[/qoute]
80w gear fluid
Absolutely!!!
It could have leaked its' fluuid out over that time, or may not have had correct level of fluid at R&R.
I'd be more worried about the noises you heard rather than the belt itself. Inspect all the rollers and h20 pump for wear. Those will ruin a belt quicker than all else (save for an oil soaked belt).
Scott
80w gear fluid
Originally Posted by MGW-Fla
Perhaps I misunderstood the rep at Brumos today when he was talking about it being low on oil, maybe he was speaking of the tensioner, not the engine itself & I just misunderstood him. Could hard acceleration cause a tensioner that is low on oil to result in loss in tension & thus the Belt Ten light coming on??
It could have leaked its' fluuid out over that time, or may not have had correct level of fluid at R&R.
I'd be more worried about the noises you heard rather than the belt itself. Inspect all the rollers and h20 pump for wear. Those will ruin a belt quicker than all else (save for an oil soaked belt).
Scott
05-06-2005, 01:09 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by MGW-Fla
Ok, so what is the exact type of oil that is in the belt tensioner & how exactly do I check the level of the oil??
I looked back at the actual of the receipts of the PO's that I have where Brumos R&R'd the cams, reset the cam timing, realigned the timing belt & repaired the tension light circuit in 09/2002 at 110,863 miles & I currently am at about 123,800+/- miles. Their repairs included the chain tensioner & tension roller. The belt had been installed about six months prior by the other shop & then the car sat for about six months per the PO. Brumos said they checked the belts for me when I had it in 10/2004 at 121,772 miles.
If the belt is supposed to not need replacing until 45,000 miles or 4 years, mine has about 13,000 miles on it & about 3 years. I am hoping that its something less involved than needing the TB & WP replaced, possibly as suggested, the tensioner needing oil.
Perhaps I misunderstood the rep at Brumos today when he was talking about it being low on oil, maybe he was speaking of the tensioner, not the engine itself & I just misunderstood him. Could hard acceleration cause a tensioner that is low on oil to result in loss in tension & thus the Belt Ten light coming on??
I looked back at the actual of the receipts of the PO's that I have where Brumos R&R'd the cams, reset the cam timing, realigned the timing belt & repaired the tension light circuit in 09/2002 at 110,863 miles & I currently am at about 123,800+/- miles. Their repairs included the chain tensioner & tension roller. The belt had been installed about six months prior by the other shop & then the car sat for about six months per the PO. Brumos said they checked the belts for me when I had it in 10/2004 at 121,772 miles.
If the belt is supposed to not need replacing until 45,000 miles or 4 years, mine has about 13,000 miles on it & about 3 years. I am hoping that its something less involved than needing the TB & WP replaced, possibly as suggested, the tensioner needing oil.
Perhaps I misunderstood the rep at Brumos today when he was talking about it being low on oil, maybe he was speaking of the tensioner, not the engine itself & I just misunderstood him. Could hard acceleration cause a tensioner that is low on oil to result in loss in tension & thus the Belt Ten light coming on??
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05-06-2005, 01:13 PM
#49
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by MGW-Fla
Ok, so what is the exact type of oil that is in the belt tensioner & how exactly do I check the level of the oil??
Originally Posted by WallyP
There is a later tech bulletin that says to use engine oil in the tensioners that have the bleed screws.
It really doesn't make much difference which you use, just so long as the tensioner is full of oil.
It really doesn't make much difference which you use, just so long as the tensioner is full of oil.
05-06-2005, 02:50 PM
#50
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without my warning circuit hooked up, at speedGT laguna last year, my belt skipped 3 teeth. we put it back and it ran for the race.
upon the new belt change, i noticed that there was NO oil in the tensioner.
Im kind of buying into the idea that the oil also helps damp low speed flap, and the false warning light. maybe even a cause for skipping teeth.
MK
upon the new belt change, i noticed that there was NO oil in the tensioner.
Im kind of buying into the idea that the oil also helps damp low speed flap, and the false warning light. maybe even a cause for skipping teeth.
MK
Originally Posted by UKKid35
Lack of oil in the tensioner increases belt tension when the engine reaches operating temperature, there is a possibility that the lack of oil may reduce damping making low tension warnings occur, but I'm not convinced.
Checking belt tension in itself is of little benefit, as many of us can attest, you have to check the whole belt mechanism including rollers, sprockets, tensioner oil and seal, bushings etc. If any one component fails then the belt will either fail immediately or long before the recommended change interval, and almost certainly without any warning.
Just to clarify: if the belt has skipped a tooth, it hasn't. What has really happened is that the tooth (or probably several teeth) is no longer there, the belt is now seconds from total failure.
Checking belt tension in itself is of little benefit, as many of us can attest, you have to check the whole belt mechanism including rollers, sprockets, tensioner oil and seal, bushings etc. If any one component fails then the belt will either fail immediately or long before the recommended change interval, and almost certainly without any warning.
Just to clarify: if the belt has skipped a tooth, it hasn't. What has really happened is that the tooth (or probably several teeth) is no longer there, the belt is now seconds from total failure.
05-06-2005, 02:55 PM
#51
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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For the record, my tensioner was very low on oil when I first pulled it apart. I think it was because the tensioner's rubber boot had come loose from the plug that passes through the boot....it was unable to fully hold oil in the tensioner.
05-08-2005, 10:24 PM
#52
tensioner light
I recently had ALL of the bulbs in my dash replaced. But I have still never seen my timing belt tensioner light come on. Shouldn't EVERY light come on when the key is in the "on" position? Where, phisically, is the tensioner light in the dash? Thanks
05-09-2005, 12:13 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by dpower$
I recently had ALL of the bulbs in my dash replaced. But I have still never seen my timing belt tensioner light come on. Shouldn't EVERY light come on when the key is in the "on" position? Where, phisically, is the tensioner light in the dash? Thanks
05-12-2005, 10:40 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
without my warning circuit hooked up, at speedGT laguna last year, my belt skipped 3 teeth. we put it back and it ran for the race.
upon the new belt change, i noticed that there was NO oil in the tensioner.
Im kind of buying into the idea that the oil also helps damp low speed flap, and the false warning light. maybe even a cause for skipping teeth.
MK
upon the new belt change, i noticed that there was NO oil in the tensioner.
Im kind of buying into the idea that the oil also helps damp low speed flap, and the false warning light. maybe even a cause for skipping teeth.
MK
The advice from the mechanic shop is pure, unadulterated, bull****. It is ASTOUNDING how badly informed the guy is.
When your belt tension light comes on, check the tension asap. Let it go and you risk losing your engine.........Ask Big Dave how much fun that is...
05-14-2005, 09:34 PM
#56
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For the 1987 928 S4, the belt tension light
is upper-left most red warning light in the
dash, next lower warning is the Tail Lamp
then the Stop Lamp and all are on top of the
engine temperature and fuel gauges.
All warning lights including the belt tension
light are checked via the ignition
key in the #2(run) position of the 0123
key positions (0=off, 1=accessory, 3=starter).
I had mine burn out while I was replacing
the timing belt and tensioner, what are the
odds of that happening !
The bulb can be replaced by removing the bottom cover of the pod then two 10mm head
bolts, and two allen head vertical bolts at the
left /right edges of the pod.
The dash pod belt tension warning bulb can be reached by slightly moving the pod up, and
then reaching around the back between the
rear of the pod circuit board and the windshield. A small open end wrench may be useful in gripping and rotating the bulb.
is upper-left most red warning light in the
dash, next lower warning is the Tail Lamp
then the Stop Lamp and all are on top of the
engine temperature and fuel gauges.
All warning lights including the belt tension
light are checked via the ignition
key in the #2(run) position of the 0123
key positions (0=off, 1=accessory, 3=starter).
I had mine burn out while I was replacing
the timing belt and tensioner, what are the
odds of that happening !
The bulb can be replaced by removing the bottom cover of the pod then two 10mm head
bolts, and two allen head vertical bolts at the
left /right edges of the pod.
The dash pod belt tension warning bulb can be reached by slightly moving the pod up, and
then reaching around the back between the
rear of the pod circuit board and the windshield. A small open end wrench may be useful in gripping and rotating the bulb.
05-14-2005, 11:02 PM
#57
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You guys are giving me nightmares. I just brought home a 85 and have yet to drive it. PO has records that show the TB and all the rollers, etc were replaced about 1000 mi ago, along with the water pump. I guess you are telling me to go drive, but at what point do I do a tension test. Car has 56K. Go ahead, reassure me, I dare you!!!
05-15-2005, 02:42 AM
#58
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ESPECIALLY if somebody just mucked with it... DO NOT drive the car until you know exactly why that warning light is coming on. Even if you find the problem is trivial, like a loose or broken wire, don't leave it that way. That is not a warning system that you want to be in the habit of ignoring.
05-16-2005, 01:11 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by jlewis
You guys are giving me nightmares. I just brought home a 85 and have yet to drive it. PO has records that show the TB and all the rollers, etc were replaced about 1000 mi ago, along with the water pump. I guess you are telling me to go drive, but at what point do I do a tension test. Car has 56K. Go ahead, reassure me, I dare you!!!
I assume you drove it before you bought, so I if the PO was wasn't nervous at the time, no worries. We're also assuming the date on the R&R is recent, otherwise no longer than 5 years. If it were mine and I believed the PO I would drive it 500 miles and check the belt with the Kempf tool, check it tracks ok and check oil in tensioner, enjoy.
05-16-2005, 02:28 PM
#60
This is a follow-up from my previous post in this thread:
[About twomonths ago, my belt tens. warning light came on during a long, fun run our PCA club was doing. It has not come on since then, but I haven't been driving that aggressively either. Nonetheless, I decided to get the tension checked, etc].
Follow-up: I had it serviced last Friday and they found the tension to be at "3". It was very loose. The tension was supposed to be at "5". The tensioner was low on oil as well (which is normal if you don't monitor it over time). I had them replace all my other belts (they were original belts) since one was beginning to fray. The mechs said that the tensioner warning system may only alert you if you exceed 4k rpm, which I probably haven't since then, which could explain why I haven't seen the warning light again.
I can now drive with more confidence in my belt. It's tensioned correctly and has 40k on it, so I will be replacing it within a year or so.
[About twomonths ago, my belt tens. warning light came on during a long, fun run our PCA club was doing. It has not come on since then, but I haven't been driving that aggressively either. Nonetheless, I decided to get the tension checked, etc].
Follow-up: I had it serviced last Friday and they found the tension to be at "3". It was very loose. The tension was supposed to be at "5". The tensioner was low on oil as well (which is normal if you don't monitor it over time). I had them replace all my other belts (they were original belts) since one was beginning to fray. The mechs said that the tensioner warning system may only alert you if you exceed 4k rpm, which I probably haven't since then, which could explain why I haven't seen the warning light again.
I can now drive with more confidence in my belt. It's tensioned correctly and has 40k on it, so I will be replacing it within a year or so.