Big Dave

Not realizing that the bolts for the chain tensioners are different, I mixed them together before cleaning them. Specifically, the bolts that fasten either end of the metal pipes with banjo fittings appear to be different. I have one hollow bolt for each end and one that has a fitting inside it. I'll post pictures tomorrow, but does anyone know how to tell which fitting goes on which side of the engine?

Aside from that, I get to pull the oil pan off again tomorrow. One of the washers slipped down the oil passage in the head and down into the pan. Unless someone tells me differently, I assume there's no problem with pulling the pan off, using the Hondabond again and re-fitting the pan with the same new cork gasket.

Big Dave

Ok, here's the picture...the circled ones have fittings inside them. Which ones go on the head for 1-4 and which go on 5-8?

Bill Ball

Steel washer? Can't you tilt the motor and fish it out with a magnet stick through the drain plug? Maybe too big. Also, doesn't the oil filler neck provide a clear shot down to the pan? You could use a strong magnet through the aluminum pan to attract and "drag" the washer to the area where the filler neck is. OK, just take the pan off.

Sorry, I can't offer any info on the fittings except plug the holes in the intake and heads before you start putting them on. OK, you could have done without that.

I should just add that your tale/saga has been a treat for those of us who have not BTDT....yet...at least on a big V8.

Big Dave

DOH! I forgot about the oil filler neck spot. Gotta try that tomorrow. The pan is still on.

The magnet is too big to fit down the hole...and the passage curves before emptying into the pan.

Bill Ball

There are small magnetic retrievers that are on the end of a very flexible/bendable (aluminum) rod. That might work for the oil filler. I forget where I got mine.

Bill Ball

http://www.jensentools.com/product/g...parent_id=3970

Maybe the 24" flexible magnetic retriever would do it?

AO

Dave... did you try the dip stick spot on the front? I know that's pretty large and should give you a good angle for fishing purposes. You could also try the oil preassure/level (not sure which it is) sending unit also on the front.

Big Dave

I already tried the hole for the pressure sender, but the magnet sticks to the pan before getting anywhere near the back where the washer (I assume) is.

Big Dave

You're right, but my point is that going through the sender hole lets the magnet get stuck to other stuff before reaching the back of the pan.

I don't mind pulling the pan since it'll take less than an hour to get it off and back on. I'll try going through the filler hole first, but I suspect the magnet will want to stick to everything but the washer.

fst951

Dave.

Lets get your fat hands steady and get me some better picutres of the bolts with the restrictions!!!

Garrity

Big Dave

Well, fishing with a magnet on a string didn't work, nor did sticking a magnet through the oil filler. The pan is off and the washer is found. I'm still looking for the answer about the chain tensioner bolts.

Oscar R

Big Dave,

Sounds like you've got the devil on the run with this project. I managed to keep all the stuff that I removed tagged, bagged, or otherwise marked, so I'm not sure on the correct answer. Does the WSM offer any words of wisdom? As far as the oil pan gasket, everyone seems to have their preffered method. I've tried sealing methods suggested by the WSM without much success. During my build, I made sure I had plenty of gasket sealant on the oil filler neck and the oil pan. I've got about 2K miles since the engine fired up and not a single seep to be found. BTW, the sealant on the oil pan gasket ended up getting all over the threads of the screws which should help in keeping those little bastards from backing out. Oil filler neck is clean as well. I retensioned the belt not long ago and all was tip top.

Garth S

Maybe leave the pan off until the valve covers are on ....

Big Dave

I was thinking the same thing.

As for the bolts, I followed the PET layout and used the bolt with the valve on the tensioner body and the hollow bolt on the other banjo end for the passenger side (cyls 1-4) and just used the remaining bolts for the other side. On cyls 5-8, the bolt with the check valve is fastened to the head itself and the bolt fastened to the tensioner is hollow.

Even Dave Roberts was puzzled.


As for the oil pan, that Hondabond is good stuff. With the bolts out, it still firmly held the pan to the engine.

Bernie

Thats a really interesting thing you've stumbled on there Dave?
Years ago, when I was refurbing the topend of my motor, I had many questions about the checkvalve arrangement on my 85. PET5 confused me and so did the new checkvalves I purchase.
The top left bolt is the checkvalve that mounts in the head on the driverside and the bottom right banjo-bolt goes into the tensioner on that side.
That leaves the top right banjo-bolt to go to the head on the passenger side and the bottom left is the checkvalve that goes into the tensioner on the passenger side......

Have Fun!