Seized cam gear bolt
#1
Nordschleife Master
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Seized cam gear bolt
Finally I'm off from work when the weather is good! Since I'll probably be transportationally-challenged for the next day or two (2 week old Jeep having cold-shift problems ) I'll have plenty of time to work on the 928.
It seems that everything I need to unscrew on this car is seized. Either somebody along the way didn't know how to use a torque wrench or they didn't know what anti-seize is.
They have been soaking in PB Blaster for the last two days and I've put enough effort into trying to turn them that one is beginning to round off even with the wrench making full contact. How can I break them loose without risking crunching my valves? Is a torch a good idea or bad idea for this?
It seems that everything I need to unscrew on this car is seized. Either somebody along the way didn't know how to use a torque wrench or they didn't know what anti-seize is.
They have been soaking in PB Blaster for the last two days and I've put enough effort into trying to turn them that one is beginning to round off even with the wrench making full contact. How can I break them loose without risking crunching my valves? Is a torch a good idea or bad idea for this?
#2
928 OB-Wan
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Matt,
not sure if this will help but ...
I have a large bolt that I place over the head of stuck bolts, I rap it a couple times with a ball peen hammer and most of them break loose after doing this a couple times
don't try to hammer it into next week, more like simulating the hammer action of an impact gun
not sure if this will help but ...
I have a large bolt that I place over the head of stuck bolts, I rap it a couple times with a ball peen hammer and most of them break loose after doing this a couple times
don't try to hammer it into next week, more like simulating the hammer action of an impact gun
#3
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Have you tried using a socket that is designed to remove rounded-off bolt heads? They have a spiral patten inside the socket that bites into the bolt head. My only concern would be snapping the bolt if it's completely seized in the hole.
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. I've used them with good results. These are actually impact sockets that are pictured, but they sell them for regular socket wrenches, too.
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. I've used them with good results. These are actually impact sockets that are pictured, but they sell them for regular socket wrenches, too.
#4
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I've tried hammer tapping with no luck. I'm not to the point of needing those sockets... yet. I tried turning the bolts backwards (tightening) slightly. One budged a little, but wouldn't go back forward (loosening) again. The other didn't budge. The cam gear bolts aren't reverse threaded, are they???
BTW, Stanley wrenches are crap. The 17mm wrench is bending and indenting from the rather mild force I'm putting into this.
BTW, Stanley wrenches are crap. The 17mm wrench is bending and indenting from the rather mild force I'm putting into this.
#5
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Standard thread not reversed no worry about the valves you have a none interference motor. Perhaps they loctited them. Try some heat.
#7
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I'd use a 6-point 17mm socket with a breaker bar, and a big (adjustable) wrench to counter hold the cam washer.
I have the same problem with galling on many (most) of the bolts on the '81.
I have the same problem with galling on many (most) of the bolts on the '81.
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#9
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I'm counterholding with a 10" adjustable wrench and used enough force to dislocate my right index finger with a 10" wrench pushed into the knuckle.
I just installed a steering box skid plate on my Jeep in under 5 minutes including taking pics. Why can't anything on the 928 go that easily?
I just installed a steering box skid plate on my Jeep in under 5 minutes including taking pics. Why can't anything on the 928 go that easily?
#10
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adjustable wrenches are CRAP. Use a real wrench Matt. I keep my adjustables around ONLY for low-torque jobbies. With two good wrenches, you can exert enough force to snap that cam bolt in half easily.
#14
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The only 32mm real wrench I could find locally was $28 or $29 at Sears and was thicker than the already too thick adjustable I'm using. Sorry, but I'm not paying $30 with tax for a wrench I'll probably only use now and when I adjust the cam gears.