gf261

Has anyone ever replaced their door lock **** with the alarm LED in it? My passenger side works, but the driver side does not. I was wondering if you have to replace this as a whole unit or if it can be repaired? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Rich9928p

The LED is fired by an inductive connection to a fairly low tech pulse generator circuit. Most likely the actuator circuit is bad and could be repaired.

gf261

Thanks Rich, thought I was gonna strike out on that one. Think an Electrical guru might be able to help me?

Alan

The LED's are very reliable - especially used like this (low duty cycle). I'd suspect the connectors in the door first - there is one for just the LED driver I believe. I'd get into the door - clean up the contacts - maybe swap the LED module from the other side to test the wiring. This could be a WYIT for all your other door rehab needs.... I'd imagine you could get used items from say 928 Int'l/20th St Auto's or similar dismantlers for these if needed.

Good Luck

Alan

Rich9928p

If cleaning things up doesn't fix it, it may be a simple fix such as a component replacment; capacitor or logic device. Check the quote of a local electronic shop can vs. buying used parts.

Randy V

Sorta related -

The owner manual states that a continuous double-flash indicates an incomplete arming of the system. Mine double-flashes whenever the doors are locked.

Any ideas?

Alan

Randy,
I think this may be normal operation... When you arm by locking the LED flashes at ~ double speed (but a single flash) for the first ~10 seconds then it should go to a slow single flash. If it doesn't do this then a sensor is open - during the double speed period you can reopen a door, hatch, glove box, hood without setting off the alarm - sort of a grace period - after that time it alarms immediately. If you did leave one door open (not drivers) it will still arm minus that contact - I thnk until it is restored.

If when you come back to the car the LED's are double flashing (meaning 2 flashes close together & a pause) it means the alarm was set off while you were gone. Try setting the alarm off and see the different flashes - when honking it flashes the double flash on the LEDs

Like I said in another thread - the manual isn't very forthcoming about exactly how the alarm works - it has some features hardly anybody knows about .

Alan

Slightly related - did you try the key anti-clockwise in the hatch lock with the windows/sunroof open - or did you have that on the old one too...

Randy V

Thanks, Alan. On mine, the LEDs double flash all the time - starting about 10 seconds after the doors are locked and continuing until I return and unlock the car - hours later.

How does the alarm get set off? It hasn't gone off yet - but then again I haven't tried to set it off after arming it.

Alan

Randy,
Wind the window down - lock the car - reach in and twist the door unlock **** - voila!

Otherwise you need a non alarm key, lock picks, brick - uggh gets ugly.

For the other sensors try each one individually to see if it can set off the alarm, the one thats not working should be bypassed (and probably doesn't work anyway) so it won't: both doors, hatch, hood, glove box, radio frame (does it have an updated radio?) I'd leave the radio frame to last - but its probably the most likely suspect if the radio has been changed out.... for the hatch/hood find the contacts and tape them into the closed position - lock then remove the tape... (uh sorry wait the 10 seconds first)

Alan

Randy V

Ah - yes, radio head unit has been replaced by the PO. Any idea where that sensor is located?

I'll check out the other sensors (assuming I can find the suckers).

Alan

Randy,
Hood is the switch for the light - does your underhood light work?
hatch is in the bottom of the reciever - you can posh it down with a rod - but its spring loaded - other option is to pull off the connector & do it direct.

Probably worth just seeing if the hatch triggers the interior lights - if it does it probably works ok.

My radio has been changed also (several times...) So I'm not sure what stock looked like. Some years factory radios had some kind of internal alarm not sure what that was but it was wired in parallel to the radio frame switch which seem to be on all GTS's at least . If what I see on mine is any indication this was simply a metal frame around the opening of the radio bay that is connected to the alarm. The FWM's show a frame "switch" connected to a Brown + Yellow striped wire. My supposition is that since the radio case is grounded the switch is just the connection of the radio case to the frame.

Mine is no longer original so I don't know for sure - I don't recall the install but never had any trouble w/ alarm - my frame was still there & seemed connected.

>>>> Edited this for clarity now that Bernard confirmed alarm I/P sense Big Thanks Bernard<<<<

If the top portion of the radio casing (nearest the fascia) is insulated with plastic (or tape or similar) then as you pull the radio out of the dash the lower portion of the bare case touches the frame and completes the circuit to ground - setting off the alarm. => Normally open circuit to alerm I/P

So:

Insulate front portion of radio casing with tape and keep the alarm funtion or cut the wire to the frame and insulate the end, (no more radio alarm)


Alan

Bill51sdr

Just a comment here, but on mine, when I use the doorlock button on the dash, the LED's flash, which is ok, but then you have that annoying "beep" the capacitor makes when it discharges, in your ear. Wish there was some way to silence that, makes locking the doors while under way annoying after a while.

Alan

Bill,
Umm interesting... with the ignition on my central lock button locks & unlocks the doors but does not set the alarm - hence no LED's flashing. I think thats what I'd expect - probably a bad idea to have the alarm on while you are moving (ignition disable and all armed & ready to go...).

Not sure what the "capacitor discharging" noise is - I certainly don't have that - Just a thunk from both actuators. Try turning the lock thumbwheel while you are in the car (need to be a contortonist I know) but does it still make the noise ? when you lock with the key also? Don't see why the central locking button is any different to any other way to lock?

Alan

Randy V

OK, Alan - I shall do some investigative work this weekend.

Thanks, Bernard.

carreraclubsport

Hi

Continuing on an old thread...
Does anybode of you have a picture of this LED module? Tried to change the door lock **** yesterday with a brand new one, but it didn't work. It seems to be a cable running along at the top of the door (just below the window) from the front of the door almost to the back, before "making a turn" downwards. Does anyone know what this is? Could this be of some relevance? I'll try to take some pictures of what I mean, at the moment my camera has no batteries...


Christian