Okay, I have a dyno session set for this Saturday for my car. This is a brand new dyno in a brand new shop. A Mustang enthusiat built the whole thing new.

First, I am looking for where I should tie the car down in the rear. I see hooks in the front but not sure that I have seen them in the rear.

Second, what changes should I do to the car while I am there to check for hp improvements. The owner says that I can have the dyno for quite a while, basically no limit. So, what would you check while it's on the dyno to see if hp / torque increases.

Thanks for all suggestions...

 

I don't think the stock set up allows for any "hp tuning". The dyno can tell you if your car is running "in spec", ie. if your hp and tq #'s match the "factory spec". If the dyno can read the a/f ratio that info can be helpful if you have a problem (ie. hp and tq way below factory #'s).
Glenn

 

Thought I would try taking the air tubes off and see if the restriction changes anything. Not sure what else to try though.

 

I glanced underneath before dynoing last weekend, and it sure looked like the rear tie-downs were merely hooked somewhere on the front of the differential/transaxle - near the middle. Unfortunately, I didn't see exactly how they were hooked, and the rear was only secured in two places which made me a little nervous. Everything worked out fine 'tho.

Hopefully someone with a little more intimate experience can help with more exacting tie down instructions.

Chip swapping would be fun if you know someone that has 85-86 P-chips to borrow from. You can buy an eRam, have it express mailed and try out their 5% performance guarantee. But, realistically for what you are asking, I am not sure what can be quickly influenced on a stock engine to generate measurable performance changes other than cleaning your air filter and installing new spark plugs (& ignition parts as warranted). You may be looking at a general state-of-tune measurement.

Out of curiosity, it would be fun to see the hp delta of "With A/C on" vs "With A/C off". Hey, if additional runs cost you nothing, then why not?

How about dyno with the windows down versus windows up?

Seriously, though, enjoy your day at the dyno!

 

When I've done a chassis dyno (twice), the rear is tied by the lower control arms. The front by the tow eyes on each side.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Everything maintenance-wise is done on my car incl. plugs, filters, wires, etc..... It has 65k miles.
For Mods, I have a Magnaflow muffler and chips, that's basically it. Any guesses what it will make?
I am guessing 250 at the rear wheels...

 

You should confirm that the throttle cable gives you a wide open butterfly........

 

I did a dyno with the top of the air filter box off versus the whole intake in place and saw ZERO difference.

Other parts of the intake appear to be more restrictive. When Tom Cloutier and I removed the side plates on the manifold and installed an intake system Tom fabricated with dual throttle bodies fed by a single stock MAF, bypassing most of the lower manifold passageways, the HP went up by 10 at peak and more than 20 in the mid-range RPMs.

 

My fronts were tethered down thru the wheels. Diffrent strokes for different operators I guess.

 

If your engine is in good shape and running strong I would think that you should push 260 rwhp.

I didn't think my engine was in perfect tune, but managed to run 270 & 271 rwhp on the dynojet. I have chips & RMB on my 86.5 and have similar mileage as you do @ 66k. Our exhaust is a little different but both are improved over stock.

If you go in expecting 250 you will probably end the day with a smile on your face. Sounds like a plan to me.

Have fun!

 

Remember, you are not dynoing a 911, rubber bungies will not work for tie downs

 

Randy, please cross-post this so we can start WW3, the war of the Rennlisters...

 

 

If you had a ZVA, this would be the perfect time to find your optimum valve timing.

 

Took an extra week due to sheft cup replacement, Syth diff oil, and shortened shifter.
Anyways, got it done today and I will post the charts tomorrow but the results were a little dissapointing.
With air intake in place - best pull was 234.3 HP at 6000 rpm, 222.2 torque at 5250
With all air intake hoses, including filter removed - 246.2 hp at 6000 rpm 225.2 torque at 5500 rpm.

Any suggestions???