Ron_H

I just finished spraying a test panel of leather to judge the color fidelity of SEM "sure coat" and must say that it was a piece of cake and turned out almost perfectly. The color was right on and was derived from a sample I sent to them backin North Carolina. They sent back the formula for both plastic (vinyl) and leather, and I had a local auto paint store in San Jose mix both formulas. Expensive. Got out some SEM soap for cleaning the leather first, and the next day I sprayed three coats in about 45 minuts. The only objection is that the surface is a bit shiny, but after it dries fully I can judge it fairly. I have a grey-green interior and it appears that I will be ordering more from them if I decide to do more than my pod and surrounds. I recommend it for sure. Time will tell how it wears on the pod and other parts. And they even returned my sample sans postage charges.

kary4th

Is the SEM color opaque? Could I actually recolor a black seat green?

jserio

Hey Ron, Let's see a pic.

Ron_H

Kary:

I suspect it could be opaque, but presently I am dying panels that are already green. I will try a dark panel or test patch tomorrow and report.

Joe:

Bear with me until I get to the real part. I have just dyed a test piece so far to test the color fidelity. I wil dye a steering wheel tomorrow and also search for some dark samples per Kary's request. It looks good so far except for the slight
sheen. I suspect that in time that sheen will dull like the older panels have.
When I get the new dash in and the pod is done, and I have dyed the surrounding panels that abut the new dash, I will post some photos.

Abby Normal

Ron,

Are you changing colors, or re-dying items the same color they are?

deliriousga

You'd more than likely have to "strip" the old finish off. Since the finishes are really a leather paint that's on the surface it's easy to do but can take some time.

If you put it over the old finish please let us know how it turns out. That would be a product worth its' weight in gold if it can take the huge time consumption of the stripping out of the mix.

Ron_H

I am installing a NOS dash and trying to match a pod to the dash color. The pod was recovered by JustDashes in some awful color not very close to greyish-green. Additionally, I am re-dyeing two steering wheels which I have re-stiched and are grey green, as well as the other major interior panels surrounding the dash, such as doors, center console, A-pillar trim, etc. Those are grey-green but are 18 yrs of age so this should bring them up to the level of the new dash. Some are leather and some are plastic (vinyl).

Ron_H

This is a learning process and here is a suggestion for anyone wishing to re-finish their steering wheel. The steering wheel is the most difficult part to re-dye because of the stiching. You must first get the leather clean and scuffed and then it is ready for dyeing; the stiching will likely be damaged if you try this without removing it first.

Before you do anything else, cut out all of the worn or frayed stiching including the center section. Pull out all of the old thread. The center sections, top and bottom are not stiched as the rest of the wheel: you must first pull the leather away from the padded under structure of the wheel, and then access the thread from under the leather. pull on one end after cutting all the outer threads and it should pull out as a unit.

Then you can use SEM soap and a grey scuff pad to scrub the old leather clean and prepare the surface. Use only a little moisture with SEM soap and wipe off with a damp towel, and then a dry clean towel. You'll be amazed at the crud that comes off. Make sure you de-gloss the surface of the leather. The set aside to dry.

Next, use some leather thread and a curved needle to sew the leather back together. Allocate some time (alot of time actually) for this because it takes patience and remember to make tht thread length for each run longer than you need because you don't want to run out in the middle of a pass and need to begin all over. I posted about this a few months ago, so it should still be in the archives. The important thing to remember is the sewing sequence. Once that is mastered, it will pass quickly and painlessly.

Next step is the dyeing process. Three light coats are better than one heavy coat. I will find some black leather or vinyl and experiment to determine if grey-green can be sprayed over black. Let the dye dry overnight. Don't forget masking tape for the wheel hub, and use a respirator.

Then get some glue for the center sections. I used BARGE brand glue which I found at Orchard Supply. It allows for removal later if it doesn't set properly but sticks well otherwise. Do not use 3M weatherstrip adhesive because it can't easily be removed once stuck and you'll need remover which will probably mess up the leather finish. Barge glue can be used just like weatherstrip adhesive and is good in about 5 minutes after applied to both sections to be glued.

After I glue the sewn center sections back in place, the wheel should be ready for re-stallation on the car.

Those were not the steps I followed in my first try, but I learned that they are the better way. If you try to scuff the wheel without first removing the stiching, you will tear up the stiches. Or you may take a chance and lightly rub SEM soap around them with a medium bristle tooth brush and then wipe off, but the better way is to have the stiches out of the way when prepping the leather.

Ron_H

Well, here are two photos of a practice wheel after SEM color. I used a Preval gun and another brand and probably got the color on too sparsely. Next one will be the wheel on my car and I will use a heavier finish coat which will appear smoother to the touch. I like the way this turned out because it is not too smooth or runny.

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/wheel_1_copy1.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/wheel_2.jpg