cobalt

Tried useing the search and it came up with no matches. (?)

The car is in great shape but she has 55k miles and I am thinking it is time for a 60k tune up. Since I know the history up to the last year, which the PO did not take as good care of the car as the previous 2 owners I think I should start with a clean slate.

I was thinking about changing all the coolant hoses which are original. The TB, WP, PS hoses and SR are all new within 12k miles. I here clicking when the engine is running so I am assuming plugs, wires, destributor etc. Any advantage of the Nology wires over the stock beru? I also need brakes. I have a full set of factory rotors which I was thinking of selling and going with the cast hole rotors. I may have the rears sold, If anyone is interested in the fronts, But I am not sure which direction I am heading there. I need advice on brake pads. The car is a street car and I will not be pushing her too hard and prefer low dust and noise if possible.

I also need all new filters. Many have expressed a dislike for K&N. Is the factory air filter worth the extra$$ over the aftermarket ones? I also want to flush all fluids. It appears the coolant hasn't been changed in over 2 years. Does it need to be flushed or just changed? Any other seals or components while I have it apart?

The last and most expensive are tires. This car is going to be driven by my wife and myself so I need something with good wet traction for my wifes nerves in case she gets cought in the rain. Although I was driving on 6 year old Michelin SP sports that are at the nubs and she was like glue in the rain compared to my Turbo. Although they did chatter a lot on take off. Has anyone tried the S03's? I noticed the Michelens were rather noisy.

I also have a question about noises. Should the drive train make a noise? It sounds like it could be from the torque tube, consistant with engine rpms. Not to loud only noticeable with the radio off but I am not sure if this is normal. I also have a squeeky clutch pedal. Any ideas on how to lube it.

Any other suggestions on what I should do?

Thanks

Mark

The clicking is most likely just the injectors doing their job. Most all of us have had the same concern when we first got our sharks. Best way to check fo bad wires - run the engine in the dark (garage at night, etc) - if the wires are bad you should see the arcing 'fireflies'.

Do a search on tires - you will find posts ad nauseum on this topic!

Lastly - as to the filter - I have had SEVERAL "experts" warn me to stay away from the K&N. The problem is that the oil on the filter can coat the titanium hot wire in the MAF, and cause some REAL $$ problems! Check with the Big 3 - 928 Specialists/928 International/Devek.

Read thru the FAQS at the top of the 928 Forum - there are some links to some GREAT DIY sites!

PS - Welcome to the asylum!!!

cobalt

Thanks....

I wasn't sure if it was the injectors. So its not the filter itself as I have had good luck with them on other cars but no MAF. Glad I asked.

FAQ here I come .

Bill Ball

I don't recall the factory air filter costing that much. You seem to be taking a very aggressive and expensive approach to the rest of the maintenenance, replacing all the hoses and wires, so why skimp on the air filter? The factory filter has so much more surface area and finer filter media than the K&N, that I would strongly recommend it. The K&N flows better with less surface area - there is only one way to do that (let larger crap through), and it is not the best idea.

There is a certain amount of normal injector clicking, usually only heard with the hood up. Lifter clatter in an infrequently driven car is more audible. The noise is louder and can be traced to the valve covers by putting a length of rubber hose to your ear. An Italian tune up usually fixes noisy lifters, although occasionally it needs to be supplemented by a Rislone treatment before an oil change.

Do you hear the drivetrain noise in neutral as you rev the engine? Do you hear it in gear with the clutch depressed as you rev the engine? (tryng to isolate the location)

cobalt

Bill,

I was more curious about the Porsche filter ($49) vs the Generic paper brands that are primarily the same thing for a lot less. I have used Mann and other filters before with no problems on other cars. I don't mind paying extra if I am getting extra. If it is the same product (Which many times it is but just doesn't say Porsche on it) than why not save.

I wasn't sure of the clicking. Now that I have been informed i am positive it is the injectors and not the lifters. Sounded very reminiscent to arcking wires, although I could not see any fire flies in the dark.

I figured the car is worth bringing up to a new starting point and just have everything done at once. I plan on keeping it for a long time and can't stand surprises.

The noise is only apparent while driving. I only have driven about 150 miles so far and will need to check for sure. Trying to recall but I believe it is only while in gear. I do not remember hearing it while reving the engine with the clutch depressed. I will check to be sure.

Thanks

ROG100

Anthony,
Could be tire noise from the rears coupled with bad alignment.
What tires are on the car?
I had similar symptoms when I bought my GTS. Changed the tires and had the car aligned and the noise went away.

I just replaced my rears with Continental Extreme Contact 275/40R/17. Very quite for normal use and great wear rating.
My SO3's were gone in less than 10K miles.

cobalt

The tires are Michelin Sp Sports. The records show they have been on the car since 2000. The car has had new rears every 8k and all 4's every 16k miles except for this last set that has over 10k on them. The fronts are better and I was thinking tire noise but hard to tell. These cars make different noises than the 911's. The car had a 4 wheel alignment less than 10k miles ago.

I guess I will have to go for a spin and check these things out more carefully now that you guys have pointed out the subtleties.

worf928

Every two years:
Transaxle oil.
PSD flush with Bosch Hammer or OC procedure.
Brake/Clutch fluid flush.

Noises: I suggest finding a local 928 Rennlister (or two) who can use their experience to let you know now normal and what isn't. You are not far from some of the real experts.

Tires: I've found that SO-2s and SO-3s will provide more wet traction that most sane people will want to use on the street. Rear tire wear is proportional to the weight of the right foot. Front tire wear is a direct result of how well the car is aligned. A 2:1 rear to front replacement ratio is to be expected assuming Grandma isn't driving.

Mark

The Mahle OEM air filter is $30.00 @ 928 Specialists. Just click on the sponsor link at the top of this page!

IcemanG17

Anthony
Clicking injectors is normal...mine used to click on the passenger side middle...now no the drivers side front? Oh well

I would be more concerned with the noise from the torque tube, it sounds like the bearings are going out...which is fairly common. The parts really aren't that expensive, but the labor for pulling the tube is where the $$$$ is? But once its done you'll be solid for another 100K. The radiator hoses is another good idea for not much $$. If your sparkplug wires are still in good shape (don't look discolored or have small cracks in the housing) then they should be okay...if I remember right the factory wires were just plain black, if they've been changed then it will say "beru" on them. But it can't hurt to change those too?

cobalt

I got the car and took it for a ride. It is hard to tell but I believe the noise is coming from the tires. I will look into it. The wires are original. I have all the records and no sign of them ever being changed.

This brings me to my next question, anyone know a good mechanic in NJ with a Bosch Hammer and experiance with 928's?

I have the S02's on my turbo and they are awful in the rain. I hear the S03's are much better. Then again the turbo's torque comes on so much different and so much stronger.

I took the car to a Concours workshop yesterday and it got rave reviews. It is a prime candidate for preservation class, so I am told. Unfortunatly I have not owned it long enough. But that will change and the car will only get better after I am through with it.

Bill Ball

Originnaly you said the noise was RPM related. Tire noise or wheel bearing noise would be road speed and not engine speed related. Shift gears and see if the noise varies with the engine speed or not.

cobalt

Bill, your right, it must be Monday I took the car out this afternoon and I see the sound is speed related not engine. So it must be tires or bearings. It is all starting to click and I am learning more all the time. It is hard to change my mindset and think 928 instead of 911 but I'm getting there.

Worf, did someone mistake me for a sain person? Sorry didn't mean to mislead.

Sierra Shark

For what it's worth I put a set of Nology wires on my 88. What a difference! Eaiser to start, better top end and better gas milage. I wouldn't rate them as some sort of "performance" item, but I would say they match their claim. IMHO worth the money.

KAmey1970

cobalt,
Where are you in NJ?
I'm in South Jersey.
Haven't found a mechanic, planning on doing as much work as I can myself.
In the middle of a TB replacement.

Kevin