New and Improved Oil Control for 16V cars
02-27-2005 | 07:29 PM
#17
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Borat Impersonator
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Borat Impersonator
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From: St Augustine, FL
Sorry Carl, don't mean to hijack the thread, but when I bought my car, the hose is pictured above was directed to the other side of the engine and connected somewhere by the throttle body. Your picture is the first one that I have found of that hose with the two smaller hoses attached for the water since I first saw it in PET. I am unsure which is correct for my car. Your oil system looks like a nice setup. Plan on buyin one soon..
02-27-2005 | 11:51 PM
#18
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
Originally Posted by Quick Carl
The water line is designed to keep the oil vapor from congeling in the breather hose to the air filter so it does not turn to sludge and stop moving.
Our kit provides a metal hose splice, you simply remove the water line from each end of that breather hose and connect them to each other with the splice provided.
Here are 2 of the pics from our installation instructions:
Our kit provides a metal hose splice, you simply remove the water line from each end of that breather hose and connect them to each other with the splice provided.
Here are 2 of the pics from our installation instructions:
It looks like there is an air path up the center that is mostly unbaffled except for the single washer. I'd be tempted to try making that path more convoluted. Does the kit come with gaskets for the baffle or is that supposed to go together with a sealant?
02-28-2005 | 01:06 PM
#19
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From: Horicon, WI
If the top of your oil separator points to the right side instead of the left, you probably have an L-Jet, not a K-Jet injection system. We have pictures for that too.
If the line from the breather top goes to the intake manifold shoe, and not the airbox, our kit still works just fine, you just route the hose out of our drop tee to the intake shoe where your hose is now. No problem.
Yes, the center of our 3-chamber modification of the oil separator is empty for good reason. This is no accident. We want nothing for the oil to cling to, so it drops out (it's heavy) collects in the bottom and returns to the oil pan.
I have seen "Choir Boy" copper scrubbees placed in the air systems - and I believe this to be a mistake. Anything that allows the oil to cling to it up in the air flow will have a wicking ability - its how you put oil IN the air as it passes thru, not how you take it out. Think of a wick in an oil lamp, for example.
My first car was a 1947 *****'s Overland with an oil-bath air cleaner. That is exactly how they worked! Oil separators usually have straight, vertical sides (like ours does) so the oil cannot cling easilly and drops out, like we want it to.
If the line from the breather top goes to the intake manifold shoe, and not the airbox, our kit still works just fine, you just route the hose out of our drop tee to the intake shoe where your hose is now. No problem.
Yes, the center of our 3-chamber modification of the oil separator is empty for good reason. This is no accident. We want nothing for the oil to cling to, so it drops out (it's heavy) collects in the bottom and returns to the oil pan.
I have seen "Choir Boy" copper scrubbees placed in the air systems - and I believe this to be a mistake. Anything that allows the oil to cling to it up in the air flow will have a wicking ability - its how you put oil IN the air as it passes thru, not how you take it out. Think of a wick in an oil lamp, for example.
My first car was a 1947 *****'s Overland with an oil-bath air cleaner. That is exactly how they worked! Oil separators usually have straight, vertical sides (like ours does) so the oil cannot cling easilly and drops out, like we want it to.
