FlyingDog

With my new WP on the way from North Carolina I decided to go out and take off the old one. I had been soaking the bolts about once a day with PB Blaster to avoid breaking any. The first bolt I tried... broke. I just used light pressure from two fingers on a 6" long 1/4" drive ratchet and it snapped right off. It appears the PO had snapped off another bolt because I found another bolt hole while trying to get a better look at my broken bolt.

I didn't have any problems with the other bolts I tried until I got to the (from front) left side of the WP. The bolt directly above the idler and behind the idler are the only ones left (that I've found). The one above the idler has been soaked in PB Blaster, tapped with a hammer, and won't come loose. It began to turn a little, but I got the idea it was twisting the head off so I stopped and sprayed it with more PB Blaster. I haven't tried the one behind the idler yet, because the idler is still in the way. However, it looks to be in the same condition and similar location to the non-moving bolt.

I've looked up all the threads on removing broken bolts. I'll be heading to Harbor Freight for some left-handed drill bits probably tomorrow. What can I do to not break these last two bolts?

Garth S

If you have a 3/8" impact wrench, set it to 'light', and work the bolt back and forth.

FlyingDog

Unfortunately, I don't have an impact wrench. I'm outside working with hand tools in a parking lot.

Tony

OMG!

i just watched that video in your link above! How did they get away with that!
I love it though!

FlyingDog

VW is actually suing the ad company that made it. It was made as a promo to sell VW on their services. The funny thing is that it has received a positive response from the general public unlike the Ford Sport Ka ads.

Garth S

At least it's warm enough to be outside!
Then, the best you can do is is one last wrist flic 'snap' of the hammer to shock the threads loose - follow by trying back and forth with a 10mm wrench. As a last resort, brute force. Good luck.

FlyingDog

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of...

Bill Ball

Do what Garth said - sharp smack.

The hole you saw that appears to be another broken bolt may be a locator pin hole - there is always hope.

If you only break one bolt, you are in pretty good shape.

jpitman2

i BROKE OFF one also- had about 1/2" above the black face......no rush, chill out. spray on your pb, tap the end with a light hammer every time you think about it, and after a few taps, try turning it gently back and forth. Eventually mine came out with vise grips on the end, but it took a few days, lots of taps, pb etc.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k

sublimate

Do you have a manual impact driver? Like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978
They're cheap and I've had good luck using one to free bolts.

Rez

If it's one thing I've noticed about broken bolts is that they are in there. My tough one was the thermostat housing. PB, heat, and I still broke the EZ out. Luckily, my buddy works at a sweet machine shop, so he had the tools to drill it out, once the housing was removed.

My advise: buy a good EZ out.

Bill Ball

Flying Dog:

How goes the battle?

FlyingDog

It snowed the other day, so I'm a little behind. I shot some more PB Blaster on it today. If it's warmer and not windy tomorrow, I'll give the impact screwdriver a try.

Bill Ball

Praying to the WP Bolt God right now...

Garth S

Impact screwdriver ... hummmm ... do hope you have the rad removed! We would cringe to see the next post titled " How to remove a BFH from the rad core."
Seriously, after the last bolt is successfully removed, the pump case may well need a smack with a plastic faced hammer ( or a block of wood) to loosen it - in light of the number of tight bolts. With a little luck, the broken bolt will be above the surface as JP noted.
Fresh bolts and anti-seize after running a cleaning tap ever so carefully into the block holes will prevent this episode from repeating ... good luck.