I hate to say this but that is terrible advice.

Get new bolts to replace the old ones AND put on antiseize. Then torque it to spec.

This way you won't break the bolts on assembly and you will be able to get it apart next time.

And the type of anti-seize is not critically important. I actually talked to a rep from Permatex about this. He said the silver Permatex included sacrificial Al so it would not corrode the aluminum holes. Using the copper stuff is fine and may be preferable. Either way, it's much, much better than no anti-seize at all.

With the number of broken bolts I've dealt with where the back of the hole is in the water jacket, I find it unconsionable for someone to recommend using no anti-seize.

 

The Permatex "Silver" anti-seize has AL, CU, and graphite. I'm going to keep looking for more application info...

I've always used the "silver" on low-temp non-engine applications like lug nuts, etc. And the copper-based on bolts that go into the block or heads.

 

If the WP bolts have anticorrosion coating (other than what just appears to be cadmium plating) it sure doesn't appear to be too effective. I've not seen a WP bolt come out without rust on it and usually gobs of rust, and this is despite the fact that none of these bolts enter the water jacket. It is true that I cannot find any specific recommendation in the WSM to use antiseize on these bolts, although Porsche calls for it on other bolts. It is true that I found no evidence of antiseize on bolts I have removed from factory original WPs. It is true that I've broken a number of those bolts. So, this is fair game for a friendly argument.

 

Bill, my experience is the same has yours wrt to rusty WP bolts. I see no reason not to use anti-seize.