Searching the Manuals
 

once again and came up with 0, nada, zip , zilch :surr:

Are the water pump bolts 20lb?? Seems like a lot.

TIA

I THINK they're 14.

Closer than my guess Ernest, they're 6 +2. I wasn't going to torque to 20 until someone confirmed.

Shoulda known to search the archives instead of the manuals.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...er+pump+torque

Egad. Good thing you asked. Use copper antiseize - sorta hard to find. I got mine at DEVEK. Someone will probably pipe in with 100 sources, including Target.

It'd be nice if they gave a torque specificly for every bolt and nut. When it's not found, that means to use the default torques

Bolt
Size Torque Nm
M6 6+2
M8 20+2
M10 40+5

And the "+" means a range. So M6 is good for 6 to 8 Nm.

Thanks Glen, Bill & Ernest.

Seems I use the defaults the majority of the time. I chased all the threads, used anti seize and new bolts.

Wish a I coulda got my camcovers back from the powder coater for the weekend :(

I think you can get it at Target. :burnout:

Bill, Why use copper-based rather than aluminum-based?

The local Autozone has both.

Try to get the Tech/Spec book for your year model. It has most all torque specs and is packed with information essential to maintaining your shark.

Use a lower torque and allow the bolt threads to galvanically lock to the aluminum block. The pump gasket cement will do the work.

So, use new bolts and torque to 5-7 ft-lbs. That's my recommendation. Don't use anti-seeze or any other lubricant. Also clean and degrease the threads of the block and bolt with brake cleaner before assembly. Q-tips are a good cleaning tool for the block threads.

Again, use new waterpump bolts. Porsche no longer supplies all of the original spec. waterpump bolts, but you can get them from Eagle Day.com

http://www.eagleday.com/hexcapbolts.html

Antiseze...

This is steel into aluminum. Most common antiseize is graphite based and makes the galvanic corrosion worse. Copper doesn't have this effect. Since broken water pump bolts from galavanic corrosion are so very common, I use the copper antiseize Lubro Moly LM-508. I don't think retention (need for loctite or galvanic corrosion to keep them from backing out) is an issue at all, unlike broken bolts.

Yup. As expected. But:

Any reason not to use AL-based anti-seize? (At least as far as I can tell the Peramatex "silver" good to 1500-degrees is AL-based.)

You mean this stuff has aluminum in it? So, you are putting aluminum paste on steel. Still galvanic unless this stuff has some other properties which prevent it. I dunno. We need a metalurgist to jump in.

I think I read in the WSM that you use copper anti-seize on anything that doesn't involve aluminum, and aluminum anti-seize on anything that does contact aluminum. I don't see how copper anti-seize would be bad.

Improper installation and broken bolts is an issue with DYI "learn by mistake" (especially popular here on RENNLIST).

The new bolts will be coated with anti-corrosion coatings, so anti-corrosion compounds are unnecessary.

Normal engine vibration is a concern, so the metallic locking is a benifit to the integrety of the installation.