deliriousga

Ready to start my baby after finally finishing the TB/WP change. I took the flywheel lock out, but the push rod in the slave cylinder won't go back into the body. I can feel from the hole underneath that the rod is lined up properly. It goes into the hole that's made to fit it, but you can hear it hit something after that and it stops about 1" from all the way in. Anybody know what to do?

The clutch was never pushed in since the push rod has been pulled out, but it has been out for about 3 months now.

Thanks!

ErnestSw

The rod will push into the slave cyllinder slowly if you use some pressure. You can then get a bolt in and tighten it down to the block.

Garth S

It doesn't go all the way in anyway: as long as the rod is seated in the piston cup - is there enough extension showing to reach the release lever cup when the slave cyl. is fitted to the bell housing?
The rod can only go into the slsve the depth of the cylinder minus the ~1" of the piston - any excess must 'hang out'. Is this what you mean?

GlenL

Like Ernest said: Make sure the tip of the slave's rod in in the cup of the release arm and then slowly force the slave to the bellhousing.

Something to sonsider is if the pre-load at the clutch pedal is too much. This will compress the master cylinder and block the fill orifices. What you need to do with the slave is compress the piston and force brake fluid back up into the reservoir.

deliriousga

Thanks guys! Got it. I used longer bolts to bring it in a little at a time then pulled one out and put in the proper bolt then again on the other one. Worked perfectly.

Thanks again for the help!

hupp

One thing that may help if you face this again in the future: Adjust the clutch pedal rod (under dash) so that there is no pre-load on the clutch master. This will make it much easier to push the slave rod in. Once everything is installed, adjust clutch pedal rod to spec.

bigs

Bigs' push rod wouldn't go in the other night in the clutch too! Is there anything in this thread that will help?

Mrs. bigs

linderpat

Thread revival for those doing the timing belt job on a manual right now, and starting to put it back together. Pushing that rod back into the slave was a major b!tch! What I ended up doing was pitting the rod into the bell housing then carefully pulling the slave over the end of the rod. Then push like h3ll and get the bolts in a few threads each. After that, easy to tighten down the bolts evenly until torqued. Must be so careful with that hard line.

Mrmerlin

Ed you really need to get a new Greg Brown flex line to replace the original flex line and hard line,
this will remove the air bubble that the hard line captures and it makes bleeding the clutch easy .
Then you keep the pushrod in the slave and press it all the way in a few times slowly,
then release it .
this will push all the air back to the tank

SteveG

Ed: Sounds like you did not have to open the system which is good. 'I pitty the man' who has to bleed the master (at the pedal). Call me if you do; better yet call out-of-work Cirque Du Soleil contortionist to help reach under the dash to remove circlip, etc.

Mrmerlin

Steve that not needed either,
bleed the slave with the GB line and you push the air back into the tank,
you will not use more than a few drops of fluid out of the bleeder to get a perfectly working clutch

bureau13

Get your orders in early for that Greg Brown line. Roger is back-ordered so get in line

linderpat

next go around. As Walter White said in BB, I still got things to do.