jorj7

When I did my oil pan in Nov 2000 (with the help of Marc and Brad at DEVEK) we did the
Yamabond on the gasket and bolts. So far so good.

Bill Ball

Although I didn't use loc-tite, that would be my plan next time. I did use Yamabond-type goop on the gasket. I also applied it to the bolts, but it didn't seem to do anything to restrain the bolts from getting really loose later on.

SteveCo

My experience with the oil pan bolts mirrors what others have said here. I check mine regularly and they always seem to work their way loose. I have cut my modest oil leak to just a few drops, so things are fine for now. I plan to replace the gasket when I do the steering rack/motor mounts.

I toyed with using threadlocker on them, but decided that the Blue stuff is probably too strong for this application. I have been trying to find some Purple (Permatex makes this low strength stuff), but it is hard to find in most stores around here...most places stock Blue and Red only. I find the Purple stuff useful for small fasteners all over the place. It seems that the bolts back off with a combination of heat, vibration and expansion/contraction of the cork gasket. All these are relatively weak forces, so Purple stuff should work OK. Nothing wrong with the Blue stuff, it would work fine too.

On the topic of tighten the bolts in situ, I found a 10mm stubby gear wrench allowed access to each and every one of them. While it might take a bit of creativity and you may only get a "one click" swing on the wrench, it does work. Best $8 I ever spent on a wrench! I tightened the bolts to "two fingers", as Garth mentioned...by my calibration this is less than 10ft-lbs.

Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's

Bill Ball

Steve:

Fully agree that the Gearwrench is essential to getting to the inaccessible pan bolts. GREATLY speeds removal when doing the gasket versus a standard open end one bolt face at a time, turn over, repeat, repeat.

GChat

Thanks for the advice. I did the removal with a standard wrench and have already purchased the gear wrench for the install. I am very hopeful that it will go easier! I have heard that the Yamabond on the threads helps sometimes and not others. I like the idea of the purple, light duty loc-tite. I'll see what i can find.

Thanks!

Greg

SharkSkin

Greg, neither will work very well unless you clean the threads thoroughly, like with a ~1/4" bottlebrush and some sort of solvent.

USNA89

I put heavier grade oil in my 84S (recommended in owners manual) and it stopped leaking entirely.

Karl

JP Rodkey

928 oil pan gasket issues seems to be like oil selection, brake pads, and all the other different matters of opinion. What the hey, here's mine:

There is no single correct method - only experiences. I certainly don't have the expertise of Devek, let alone those of you who have done a pile of these. However, I've done four 1/2 (currently 'helping' on an '89). One was a gasket redo while on jackstands, and it is a ..... ahem....challenge. Indeed, this is a job made MUCH easier with a lift. The others were with the engine on an engine stand.

Yamabond is great stuff, but my personal experience (pre 928) keeps me away from using the ubiquitous RTV sealants and such on cork gaskets. I like Yamabond on paper gaskets, depending on application, with a very thin film. Thick gook sealants allow the cork to slide and makes it much easier for it to push into or out of it's ideal location. I also don't want to chance having a bead inside the pan which might come off and rest against the pickup. Sometimes, if ever needing to get back in there, it's a real chore to clean up the mating surfaces for the next gasket.

I've had excellent results (no leaks and no loosening of bolts over the years and miles) with this method:

1. Clean everything as well as possible. I usually use lacquer thinner on the mating surfaces just before assembly. Definitely get the bolts cleaned off and all oil/grease removed. If you have to, use a Q-tip with thinner in the block bolt holes.

2. Using the Reinz gasket in the very expensive gasket set, apply a thin coat of Quicksilver (Mercury Marine P/N 92-34227) Perfect Seal ( I know.....I know.....ANOTHER magic elixer) to both sides of the gasket and put in place.

3. Put a small amount of Loctite on each bolt and finger tighten.

4. Use a nut driver on the bolts you can get to and snug all the way around, and use an open end for the front/side bolts. Set torque wrench to 8-10 Nm (6 or 7 ft lb) and incrementally tighten each bolt. By that I mean turn each bolt snugger, but not enough to click the wrench. Use the firmness of one of those bolts to determine how much effort to use on the open-end for the bolts not accessible by the torque wrench. Begin snugging bolts to specified torque and using the open-end as above. Once all have been torqued, go all the way around once more, and once again if you're as nuttey as me.

5. Take a nap and have a dream of satisfaction that your oil pan is secure, will not leak, and will not have to worry about bolts de-snugging.

Like I wrote - that's just my personal process. Have fun!

Bill Ball

JP:

Looks like a good aproach. One thing, though - Yamabond comes right off with brake cleaner, so it is easy to clean up when re-doing a gasket later on.

Thaddeus

2-3 drips overnight? Dude, it's a Porsche! That's NORMAL.

mspiegle

I guess the new saying is...

Excellence (oil drips) was expected

Deb

GCHAT - check your PM

JP Rodkey

Thanks!

JP

SteveCo

While I have no personal experience with the product, Permatex does make
makes a threadlocker for less-than-perfectly-clean surfaces:
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=24027

Loctite have a similar product...their 243 formula. Maybe these "medium" strength products in an oily environment would be equivilent to the purple stuff in a clean one. Anyone have experience with these type products?

Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's

Earl Gillstrom

I have done about 6 with the method JP listed and never retightened and no leaks. I used GASKACINCH on some and RTV (sparingly) on some. Never a drop.
Use JP's procedure and you will have a clean bottom.
The choice of gasket sealer may not matter. But, the use of gasket sealer and Loctite may matter. After using Loctite, you can still retighten and the Loctite will still work to keep the bolts tight.