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32V Cam Timing Tool & 16V/32V Conv 'Group Buy' #2
02-02-2005, 10:27 AM
#32
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Great Northwest
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Bingo! I could see the wheels were turning. Couldn't you get by with just one tool for both sides in that case Ken? With the pin I take you will keep the 1 degree incements also? Your pics are on the way.
A long needle, such as a hat pin, will go through the two sets of holes, and into the recessed mark on the 32V engines.
)
Originally Posted by PorKen
A long needle, such as a hat pin, will go through the two sets of holes, and into the recessed mark on the 32V engines.
)
02-02-2005, 02:18 PM
#33
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Thanks Jim for sending the pics.
The right cam gear is recessed into the housing, whereas the left is away. I thought maybe I'd have to have two separate pointers, but the 'hat pin holder' seems like it will solve the problem. Hopefully, it won't create new ones.
"No...not going to Hooters...I'm going to go to the craft/fabric store, 'honey bunny'..."
The right cam gear is recessed into the housing, whereas the left is away. I thought maybe I'd have to have two separate pointers, but the 'hat pin holder' seems like it will solve the problem. Hopefully, it won't create new ones.
"No...not going to Hooters...I'm going to go to the craft/fabric store, 'honey bunny'..."
02-02-2005, 05:53 PM
#34
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Ken,
Looks good and I hate to suggest a change now, but, it seems that I do many checks and rotations until I get it "right on". Maybe make the mounting holes large enough to slip over the heads of the bolts for a check without removing the bolts? And then easily remove the tool for more checks or adjustment? I don't think that this would affect accuracy.
Looks good and I hate to suggest a change now, but, it seems that I do many checks and rotations until I get it "right on". Maybe make the mounting holes large enough to slip over the heads of the bolts for a check without removing the bolts? And then easily remove the tool for more checks or adjustment? I don't think that this would affect accuracy.
02-02-2005, 06:17 PM
#35
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Earl,
I could resize the bolt holes so that they just fit over the allen head bolts.
The ring would have to be slightly larger, and I would need to include some fender washers to go under the bolts, too.
I could resize the bolt holes so that they just fit over the allen head bolts.
The ring would have to be slightly larger, and I would need to include some fender washers to go under the bolts, too.
02-02-2005, 06:37 PM
#36
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Ken, the allen bolts may vary, and some folks may have hex head bolts. Maybe it would make more sense to have something like what you show in post #32, where you sight between two holes or use a pin or other type of pointer... but offset it further so that it clears the belt when turning. Maybe this way you can make one part for all applications... Also I like the beefier arm in that pic.
02-02-2005, 07:48 PM
#37
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Dave,
Very good points.
I'm sizing the holes to the SS allen head bolts I included with the 32V sets. I measured the remaining ones in the box, and they all were the same size. The 16V pointers are set in stone, I'm not going to revisit them. The left side indicator on the housing is too low for an 'over the top' pointer.
If someone looses a bolt, or the special needles, I can make a tidy profit off of replacement parts. Say, $5 each? Wait... Porsche? Oh, I meant $10!
...
As it turns out, I put the 90 degree bends too close to the needle holes, and they bent at the holes with the die they were using, this afternoon. Which means I can incorporate the bolt head mod in the rererevision I'll send them tonight.
Anything else I should include?
Very good points.
I'm sizing the holes to the SS allen head bolts I included with the 32V sets. I measured the remaining ones in the box, and they all were the same size. The 16V pointers are set in stone, I'm not going to revisit them. The left side indicator on the housing is too low for an 'over the top' pointer.
If someone looses a bolt, or the special needles, I can make a tidy profit off of replacement parts. Say, $5 each? Wait... Porsche? Oh, I meant $10!
...
As it turns out, I put the 90 degree bends too close to the needle holes, and they bent at the holes with the die they were using, this afternoon. Which means I can incorporate the bolt head mod in the rererevision I'll send them tonight.
Anything else I should include?
02-02-2005, 09:58 PM
#38
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Here's what I'm running with, put 'er on a bit of a diet too.
02-02-2005, 10:55 PM
#39
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Porken,
Thanks for doing this research for an important tool. You'll be doing the 928 community a big favor...and I hope you don't lose your shirt in the process. It's interesting to get on-the-fly feedback as the design perfects.
Harvey
Thanks for doing this research for an important tool. You'll be doing the 928 community a big favor...and I hope you don't lose your shirt in the process. It's interesting to get on-the-fly feedback as the design perfects.
Harvey
02-03-2005, 04:39 PM
#40
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The "Pin-Pointer"...
Looks like it might work!
I'll hopefully be testing the fit this afternoon. Saturday, I may be able to compare it to the dial indicator measurement.
I'll hopefully be testing the fit this afternoon. Saturday, I may be able to compare it to the dial indicator measurement.
02-03-2005, 10:00 PM
#42
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I think it's a keeper!
Jim_H's GT left, as found, 1 degree advance:
Jim_H's GT right, as found, 2 degree advance:
Crank at #1 O|T.
Still have to see how they measure up to the WSM, but I reckon it's close.
...
heinrich,
"For external use only."
It will only cost you, and the other 'first batchers', $3.85 for Priority Mail, to send the 16V pointers back to me so I don't have to do another run of those.
