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Convert early fuse board to blade sockets

 
Old 12-12-2018, 05:19 AM
  #61  
jpitman2
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Update - 6+ years, zero issues almost - one fuse holder broke at a dry solder joint early into its life, replaced with a spare. 5 modified blade units in use.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
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Old 12-12-2018, 01:25 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by jpitman2 View Post
Update - 6+ years, zero issues almost - one fuse holder broke at a dry solder joint early into its life, replaced with a spare. 5 modified blade units in use.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Now let's mass produced those babies. If you add a tab to the side, the holders will lock together making it even more stable.
Why don't you email Roger?

Last edited by NewToPig; 12-12-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:36 AM
  #63  
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Found a source of the 5/16 Female connector here [email protected] for reasonable price, including shipping. Some places in Oz want over $1 each for them. I plan to build a few units while I am not allowed to put any loads on right shoulder - rotator cuff repair. Will also look into making a bank of maybe 5 on a piece of circuit board to enhance the stability.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:50 AM
  #64  
Shawn Stanford
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If these can get mass produced at a reasonable price, I will absolutely redo my entire fuse panel.

The stabilizer tabs are a great idea, and the plastic body should be color coded to the fuse.

You should find a manufacturer and do a Kickstarter for these.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:46 PM
  #65  
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Shawn,
I cant see anywhere enough demand to manufacture a specific solution to this issue, sadly. Unless maybe it could be used by millions of old VWs and other European cars of the period. I doubt these will have the same base connections, but you never know. Research into holders continues though.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:15 PM
  #66  
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I'm pretty sure that my '81 Jetta would not have used these, as my memory seems to say it had permanently attached terminals.
(If it would have been an option, I would have jumped on one in an instant, back when I had the car. The stock GBC fuse design was a catastrophe, even with a 12 year old car...)
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:00 AM
  #67  
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The other approach that I think Jake did - simply saw & power file the fuse-holder section off from your <'85 relay panel - then saw the relay portion off off an 85+ panel with ATC fuse holder section (may need to truncate for width) and then epoxy weld the 2 parts together - then wire directly to the late model fuse blocks. If you could find a broken 85+ panel (usually its the weaker relays and sockets sections that are broken) then it may not be too prohibitively expensive (? maybe).

It does provide a good starting point and all Porsche components - note that the circuit I/P side is now the top (not the bottom), some top connections are pre-wired to busses and some internal sockets are linked together INSIDE the fuse blocks (see my previous posts on this)
Still a viable alternative (but you need to adapt mounting to be a hybrid method). A huge amount of work to match up still (and some wires will need to be lengthened I'm sure)

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Old 12-21-2018, 11:07 AM
  #68  
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To me that's the best way. It was a labor of love......... LOL
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:09 AM
  #69  
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ill try and get the pics to upload
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:51 AM
  #70  
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Please do
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Old 12-21-2018, 02:29 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by jpitman2 View Post
Another reason to do this. Tale recently posted to landsharkoz, but bears repeating.
A few years ago I replace the fuel pump relay. A few weeks ago, I went to start it, no dice. After a bit checking fuses, pulled the pump relay, put back in the original unit, fired right up. That replacement relay didnt last very long I thought. Went for a run, 40 mins out, died. Pump relay was hot to the touch. Bridged the relay, got home. mmmmmm. put in a generic 53 relay, pump started at turn on, I though OK, that will get me around until I can replace it. Went to start it today, brief catch, stopped. Bridged the pump relay , no pump....wriggled fuse 13 (listed by 928 specialist chart as pump), nothing. bridged releay again, and caught a spark out the corner of my eye, too far to the right to be 13....plugged the releay bridge in, wriggled fuses rightwards...fuse 22! Loose - no pressure on the ends, and the contact caps are not at all bright, or marked by contact. Put in one of my blade fuse holders, now have pump reliably. Went to start it, but could only get small catches, wouldnt take any throttle with the generic 53 relay. Put the OLD relay in, caught and ran fine right away. Looks like a 53 isnt a usable temporary fix, at least at a cold start, with CIS. Now I suspect that the relay failures have been caused by poor contact at the fuses causing an increase in current .....
About to send out some test fuse holders to a couple of users here, and a pair to Alan next week.
Looks like I have to use an earlier NY fuse chart, or at least the list in the Owner's Manual.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
This exact thing has been happening to mine as well intermittently for that past year. Indeed, fuse #22. Has me lusting for a blade-based panel. Someone please do this

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Old 12-21-2018, 09:33 PM
  #72  
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lots of extra room for adding fuses! :-)


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