32 valve cam timing tool
01-13-2005, 04:34 AM
#31
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"the little sickle"
center notch, zero - slightly smaller notches, 2 degrees - notches on ring, alignment
01-14-2005, 07:29 PM
#33
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Stick a fork in it.
Just got off the horn with the shop. This shop can cut and bend the piece, which means I only have to QC and ship them!
They will be made from 14 gauge stainless steel sheet, and will include (3) stainless 5mm allen head bolts and spacers to allow the cam bolt to be used for adjustment.
I'll post a PDF manual as soon as I have pictures. Feel free to PM or email (use PayPal address below) me for more info.
They will be made from 14 gauge stainless steel sheet, and will include (3) stainless 5mm allen head bolts and spacers to allow the cam bolt to be used for adjustment.
I'll post a PDF manual as soon as I have pictures. Feel free to PM or email (use PayPal address below) me for more info.
Last edited by PorKen; 01-18-2005 at 04:13 AM.
01-14-2005, 08:10 PM
#34
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Adjustments for individual engines, if necessary, can either be done with a paint or marker dot at actual zero, and extrapolation. 
In other words, when the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1), mark the pointer with your current position, and then you can always return to that point.
As I was rereading the WSM, I remembered that someone once told me the measurements for different 32V years corresponds to the factory advance/retard for different year cams. Also the right side is adjusted slightly differently to compensate for expansion. (I would suggest checking with the pointer when the engine is hot.)
I think the different values listed in the WSM equals the different amount of lift for different years. So the cam key would always be straight up when the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1).
Of course, if the tool doesn't work for you, I'll buy it back!
In other words, when the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1), mark the pointer with your current position, and then you can always return to that point.
As I was rereading the WSM, I remembered that someone once told me the measurements for different 32V years corresponds to the factory advance/retard for different year cams. Also the right side is adjusted slightly differently to compensate for expansion. (I would suggest checking with the pointer when the engine is hot.)
I think the different values listed in the WSM equals the different amount of lift for different years. So the cam key would always be straight up when the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1).
Of course, if the tool doesn't work for you, I'll buy it back!
Last edited by PorKen; 01-16-2005 at 10:10 PM.
01-15-2005, 04:55 AM
#36
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heinrich was buyer number one! 
Last edited by PorKen; 01-22-2005 at 09:30 PM.
01-17-2005, 02:41 PM
#40
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Thanks, to everyone that ordered.
Parts are being made today, should be ready to will call tomorrow!
Parts are being made today, should be ready to will call tomorrow!
01-18-2005, 10:38 PM
#42
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Picked up the parts... and... they're sweet!
The pieces are exactly like the 3D model! It's weird!
I made the bolt holes only barely big enough to slip 5mm bolt threads through, and they fit all three perfectly!
"Honey bunny" decided to take the camera to work, so no pics as yet.
The pieces are exactly like the 3D model! It's weird!
I made the bolt holes only barely big enough to slip 5mm bolt threads through, and they fit all three perfectly!
"Honey bunny" decided to take the camera to work, so no pics as yet.
01-19-2005, 02:47 AM
#43
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They still need some buffing...
The shiny circles are from mounting on my engine.
The shiny circles are from mounting on my engine.
01-19-2005, 04:17 AM
#44
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Very nice! Now... I'm not just trying to be difficult here... but it appears that the 2 "alignment"(calibration?) notches align with the tip of the pointer as before, but they do NOT line up with the zero mark as with the original 16V pointer? Makes more sense I guess... I can see why you had a bugger of a time getting that right!
01-19-2005, 05:20 AM
#45
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They line up with tip, which is 6 degrees retard.