aggravation

Is the stock NB O2 sensor something I could buy at an auto parts store? I might as well go and replace it today while I wait for the delivery of the Innovate stuff.

BrianG

I have done exactly this....... LC-1 / XD-1 permanently installed. LMA-3 and TC-4 daisy chained in along with laptop for engine logging & tuning. Plus the LC-1 feeds A/F information to my SharkTuner.
I have a second bung installed in my X-pipe, in the mirror image position to the first one. There is more than sufficient room under there on my X-pipe/car.

Let me know how your LMA-3 works out. Mine is a problem! I can't get the serial communication going.....You can buy that 3 wire sensor almost anywhere but you will likely have to splice in the 928's connector plug. No big deal. Get a sensor with the "long" lead. (they come with "long" or "short") Take the old one with you....

aggravation

thanks, I just found an old thread on the subject where they recommended this one: "Bosch Universal 3-wire O2 sensor....The part number for the Bosch Universal oxygen sensor is 15726"
So I'll be off the NAPA, AutoZone etc. with hopes someone has one in stock this morning!

Louie928

The WB O2 sensors, such as the Bosch 7057, need to be mounted between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position in the pipe. Not horizontal or with the wire end hanging down. Reason is that the heater heats a ceramic part inside the sensor very hot. If moisture contacts it, as may happen when starting the engine from cold, the ceramic may crack and the sensor malfunction.

Bill Ball

Brian, et al.:

What length lead did you order with the LC-1? I went with 1 meter. Hope that is enough.

2V4V

Surprised there would be issues with the LC, but I'll take your word for it, I have yet to play with one. Personally, I like the way Klaus has utilized the WBO2 sensor to get his data, I really don't like anyone else's product. They are either priced like a Horiba/Bosch unit, or they tend to be inaccurate compared to the Innovate unit. YMMV.

I have heard lotsa complaints about other WBO2 units, but, as always, your experience may vary. I'm also convinced 70% of all complaints are from those who don't know how to do it, and won't RTFM...

I'm running the LM1 (I actually have a couple). When I initially got into the Innovate WB and datalogging they offered no products but the LM1 and the rpm convertor. The aux box was over a year away (actually longer IIRC).

I had to scratch build my own 'aux box', which was really not terrribly hard - it is a bit bigger than Klaus' box obviously. (I put in a couple of MAP sensors, Pulsewidth, and some 0-12/0-5v scaling circuits for flexibility).

While I was at it, I also built a break-out box for L/LH, so I can tap any I/O right in the passenger seat. Between the Innovate, a very inexpensive 4 ch laptop input unit and more expensive 16 ch laptop input unit, I can log just about anything to do with the engine functionality. By the individual cylinder.

The only thing I can not currently do is ion-feedback loops of PPP - someday when I have some time I will hack the unit that's lying around and figure out how to tie it into my stuff. Or just scratch one, there's a few white papers floating around on it.

Cheers,

Greg

John Speake

Hi Greg,
I am just repeating other people's experience with the LC-1. But Innovate may have fixed the issue with a software update by now...... I hope so because they are good products other than this one reported problem.

2V4V

John, as I said, I have no first hand experience with that particular product, so, honest, I'll take your word for it.

I just meant that it seemed odd, but hey, odd hardly equates with impossible.

Greg

BrianG

That's going to be lots. I secured the LC-1 to the fuel lines up under the CAT heat shields. I used urethane RV window sealant as stickum and secured the unit with a few zip-ties. The WB02 sensor connector is too large to pass through a reasonable hole, into the car, and the LC-1 connectors and cable leads are advertized to be absolutley weather proof. Up behind the heat shield, they are not going to see much exposure anyway.

You will pass the 2 serial leads and the main wiring harness lead through some grommet (like the OEM 02 sensor one) into the passenger compartment and do the hard-wiring there at the fuse panel anyway. One m of length is pleanty.

Bill Ball

Thyanks, Brian. That's helpful. The LC should arrive in a day or two.

AO

On that note... I actually used the stock O2 grommet. I had to do some minor surgery on it by taking a razor blade and basically cutting out the center of it to get both the stock and the WB to pass through it. I suppose you could also buy a new grommet that's designed to fit if you really wanted to. YMMV.

AO

Binging this back up to the top.

I finally got time to monkey around with my Aux Box this past weekend. I've got it tracking boost and RPM right now, although I need to monkey around with the boost measurement. I just re-read Tony's dealings with this and I see that I need to change the function number for the boost.

Anyway, I would have also recorded AFR except for 2 things. #1, I didn't have the male-male serial plug and #2 when I did my clutch and re-attached the lower bell housing cover, I inadvertently pinched the WBO2 cable in the cover and squashed the wiring. I thought I had fixed it, did a free-air calibration, but it won't work. So, I've got a new on the way.

Question: Where is the best place to thermocouple? I'm thinking I'd probably want to record IC inlet and outlet temperature differential, but I'm unclear as to where I should attach the thermocouple wire to record these values. Any tips?

Also, has anyone else here mounted one of these Aux Boxes in a 90+? I don't have the parcel tray, so finding an appropriate place to mount it to take advantage of the accelerometer is a challenge. I was going to velcro it to the underside of the glove box, but it's not level with the car. Any ideas?

Louie928

The thermocouple(s) should be in the airstream. How you do that depends on your configuration and what's available to put a hole in. Clamping them to the outside of a tube won't give much useful information due to time lag for the tube to heat or cool and effect of surrounding air on the temp of the tube.

One possible location for the Auxbox would be on the floor under the carpet. I think over on the side next to where teh LH/EZ-K is located would be out of the way of passenger feet. Cover the Auxbox with thin plywood or sheet metal for added protection.

BrianG

I'm using the LM-3 to log RPM, vacuum/boost, injector duty cycle, fuel pressure and one temp. I have heard that the accelerometer is somewhat flakey.

I also picked up a TC-4 for more temp data. I think I'll pick up the intercooled air temp with a probe into one of the 2 vacuum ports already in the manifold. I'd also like to have intake air temp, compressor outlet temp, and underhood temp. If I do end up with one channel left on the LMA-3 I might grab coolant temp so that I have accurate data there, too.

Tony might chime in here with ideas for locating the probes, as he was monitoring 4 temps when I saw his car in Las Vegas last winter.

AO

Thanks Louis and Brian.

I have a G-Tech Pro SS which I can use for Acceleration, I just thought it would be nice to have all the data on one page, but if it's not reliable, I'll just shove it under the cover with the LH and leave it be.

Brian, how hard is it to record the injector duty cycle? Is that something you can pull off the LH/EZK harness or do you have to fish a wire up an injector?

A question for anyone with an Andy Keel or DR's setup (sorry Brian, I don't recall what you have). where's the best place to recod pre/post IC air temperatures? Per Louis suggestion, you don't want to clamp it to a tube or something like that as that's not recording the air temp but the affect of air temp on an object. Just looking for additional ideas.