Tony

hey all
Just thought Id share this stuff.


I recently bought the LM-1 wide band O2 sensor/data logger to help me tune my Twinscrew SC set up. I initially used it and my ARM 1 (with the lights) to make sure i wasn't running excessively lean...I wasnt. Today when i finally sat down to play with the software I forgot that a few weeks ago when i was playing and doing my 0-60 runs i had hit the record button on a few of the events.

Which 0-60 run this image below correspond to i have NO IDEA but it shows the capability of the data logger and how it can be used. Im just scratching the surface on how it really can work but so far so cool! I recently bought the LM3 "AUX BOX" also which allows data logging of other parameters. Although not recording it yet, you can see, i have it set up for AFR, RPM, TEMPS, DUTY CYCLE, BOOST and G's . For the TEMPS, it actually has K-type thermocouple capability internally and i am in the process of trying to get my" Intercooler out" readings to log and display on the laptop along with all the others.

Much of this stuff and the program is somewhat over my head and perhaps overkill for the street but im slowly hanging on to it and learning it as i go...along with tuning. I like this kind of "data stuff".

The image above is zoomed in on one of the runs. Like i said, i dont know which one it is but you can see from the time that it was about 9sec from the time i put my foot down until i lifted. . Later, i will have to note when i make my runs and the results (with the GTECH) so i can better associate them with one another...shouldnt be hard to do. The data logger only IDs the runs in sequential order and doesnt name them persay...you can see this one is "session 3 (37.85sec)" . this means it is number 3 in sequence and is 37.85 sec long....i forgot to turn the logging off, so i zoomed in on the relevant stuff.

you can also see that you can zoom in...out...highlight and note specific points. you can also smooth the graph over predefined intervals so the graph becomes a bit easier to read. Theres more but i havent got to that yet.

Anyway, more to come when i get the rest of it figured out.
Worth its weight in gold! As you can see im not as rich as i thought i was initially, this one shows the low 11's most of the time. I thought i was in the low 10s by glancing over at the gauge when doing a run. The data logging is for this type of stuff!

jorj7

Tony,

Looks good. I'm planning on getting the LM-1 also. That's why
I asked Tom to put two O2 ports in the X-pipe.

I was looking at Mr Dyno with the addin box (data logger). I
communicated with Joe Koelker about them, and he said they
decided not to go into production with them (addin box) due to
lack of interest. So I may be getting the LMA-3 also.

DK

I used the LM-1 at a few tracks last year - and built a break-out box which connects other signals from my SDS EFI controller to the LM-1. Works slick, but still didn't help me find the problem I had at Laguna - where the car was backfiring, but the logs looked reasonable. Ended up being ignition related - ground strap was loose on engine!

For those folks strapping on the blowers - LM-1 would be great tuning tool, as long as the other sensors were logged (and you guys would get real on a programmable EFI controller).

Next step is to get some driving logging - got my eyes on the SPA microdash...

Lagavulin

Good stuff Tony; your air/fuel looks good on that run!

This spring we are going to hit the engine management portion hard, which includes some form of programmable EFI as DK alludes to. Z has come across some tools that sound promising, and we're awaiting a response from the vendor to see if they'll do what we hope, and a price. Unfortunately, there are not many tools for the LH, and this may be yet another dead-end.

Blown Beast

Ya...Tony, get the LM-3 all figured out so I can copy you :-)

Tony

funny Rob! I just came from the LM-1 web forum actually where ive been posting questions. For me the setp has been a PITA! IMHO the instructions SUCK as far as set up! i get things to display but the values are wrong.

ie: Boost....i can get the needle to swing but the values on the display are all wrong. I want it to read "0" when the car is off...obviously. I cant even get that right!

Im going to try the duty cycle later today. hopefully i wont blow up my LH or the Aux box!

Im also goign to find out what the voltage is from the fuel pressure sender to the autometer gauge. Im sure that can be intercepted and fuel pressure logged also.


Its frustrating as i have this image of how it will all work when it is set up...and i cant get it set up!! It will be awesome when it does, i know that.

Ill probably be calling you today or tomorrow.

Blown Beast

Tony, Open track day is the 19th of this month..only $145 for 2.5hrs and lunch....Andre,Ron and I will be going and possibly Mark and Joseph. Call me if you are going to make it as I need to fix some issues with my car if I am going and Mark needs a new gear box if he is going.

Z

The sensor inside of the Auxbox is a MAP sensor that measures absolute pressure. It measures pressure above an absolute vacuum. The boost gauge in your car displays pressure above ambient pressure. You need to set things up in Logworks so that the display shows -14.7psi being equal to 0 volts, and 29.4psi being equal to 5 volts. You also need to have the Auxbox channel 4 set to function 2. The reading being "0" with the car off is going to vary with your elevation and the atmospheric barometric pressure though, so you'd have to adjust for that.

Should just be a matter of tapping into the injector wire and hooking that up to the Auxbox input.

You'll have to set the Auxbox channel you're using for the fuel pressure to an external input, and then create an appropriate pressure to voltage table in Logworks for that channel. Mine isn't an Autometer fuel pressure gauge, so my table information won't help you with the sending unit you have with that gauge.

Tony

Got it... but theres a little more than that..
Heres the detials of just tappng into an injector.
(model specific)

For those that have an 1987 928 S4
Tap the #1 cylinder injector wires near the injector.
There are 2 wires:
1) Brown/Red (BR/RT per the WSM)
2) Red/yellow (RT/GE per the WSM)

(becareful as the yellow is NOT a nice bright yellow it may look tan )

Tap/splice onto the Brown/Red wire and run this to the Aux Box CH3+

Take a short piece of wire and connect CH3- to the GND on the AUX BOX

In log works set to negative dwell.

That shoudl do it.

Tony

how did you get the info on yoursending unit/ gauge? did you just hook up a volt meter and plot a series of pressures and voltages?

That bit of info got you a beer! i will try it. Thanks Z. The instructions in the manual arent to clear for me atleast.

Z

You don't need to connect that CH3- terminal of the Auxbox to ground. If no ground is connected to the particular Auxbox channel's (-) terminal, it just uses the ground connection that the LM-1 uses when you power it. If you're measuring something like an external sensor voltage, there may be a variance from the sensor's ground connection to that used by the LM-1, so the measurement might be slightly off. With the injector duty cycle you're just concerned with the pulse length, so that possible ground offset doesn't matter.

I connected a volt meter to the sending unit electrical connections, and connected the pressure port of it to an air compressor line. I then adjusted the air pressure regulator to a number of different settings over the range of the sending unit. At each different air pressure setting I noted the reading on the fuel pressure gauge in the car, and the corresponding voltage measurement on the volt meter. The table I ended up with seems to put the Logworks displayed fuel pressure within about 1 psi of what the gauge in the car reads over the range of the gauge. My sending unit is one that just has two wires and changes in resistance in relation to pressure changes. Some of the sending units have three wires with the signal wire providing a linear signal over the range of the pressure that the sending unit's for. On a 100psi sending unit like that, 0v=0psi, 2.5v=50psi, and 5v=100psi.[/QUOTE]

If you set the configuration for the boost in Logworks, you might still get that situation where the gauge doesn't read "0" with the car off because of your elevation or the barometric pressure. If that's the case, you should just be able to go into the "Load/Edit Table" area of Logworks and adjust the "Shift Table (volt)" slider up or down to zero out the reading. You might have to do that before each test session if the weather's different and changes the car not running displayed value.

Tony

Got it! Z
thanks..that was just the info i needed!

I set Ch4 to function 2
and set -14.7 psi to 0 volts and 29.4 to 5 volts in log works

This didnt quite "zero" me out. So being in Vegas at 2500-2700ft here at the house i set in -12.1psi to 0 volts.


Logworks then showed 0.0 to 0.1 "boost" with the engine off! Poifect!

Fired it up and it dropped to -8.1 to -7.9 psi
My boost/vac gauge shows appox 16"hg at idle and...16 inch of mercury (inHg) EQUALS 7.85847 psi which is what logworks is showing!

If im going to dyno or do some tuning all i need to do is go in and "re-zero" logworks out to the local pressure that the Aux box MAP is picking up with the engine off..

Works well now! thanks for your help again!

One more related question. How can i lower the scale on the logworks display for boost. I dont need any indacitions above 10psi at this point.

Now the last item is getting my Thermocouple to read at the intercooler discharge.

Z

You go into the Logworks "Load/Edit Table" area again and change the values of the maximum pressure and voltage line that you have there. Let's say you currently have it set for -14.7 psi = 0 volts and 29.4 psi = 5 volts, which allows you to to show up to 29.4 psi of boost as the full scale on the Logworks gauge. You only want it to go up to a maximum of 10 psi on the Logworks gauge, but you want to keep the same linear psi to voltage rate. 10 psi on the gauge is equal to 24.7 psi absolute pressure. (14.7 psi atmospheric + 10 psi above atmospheric) Divide that 24.7 psi by the full scale 44.1 psi capability of the MAP sensor and you get .56. That means the 10 psi that you're looking for is .56 of the way between the -14.7 psi and the 29.4 psi that you have configured now. Since the voltage output is linear with the pressure, it also means that the voltage output is .56 of the way between the 0-5v range. If you take the .56 and multiply it by the 5v you get 2.8v, so 10psi should equal 2.8v. In the Logworks table, leave the -14.7 psi = 0 volts line as it is, and change the upper value line to 10 psi =2.8v. With some configurations my Logworks doesn't seem to like just two entries in the table like that, so you might have to add another line to the table. Just put one in the middle that's midway betwen the upper and lower values, like -2.35 psi = 1.4v. That should do it.

Since the MAP sensor reads absolute pressure, and that changes with barometric pressure as well as altitude, you can use your 928 to predict the weather too now.

BrianG

THIS IS GREAT STUFF!!

My LM-1 and LM-3 arrived by FedEx today!

....... now if only the supercharger would do the same!

Lagavulin

That boy Z is absolutely incredible!