Bleeding clutch
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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alright if you haven't already read the thread about my master cylinder
Right now i'm bleeding my clutch and i cant get any pressure in my master cylinder
First i tried bleeding it normally by unscrewing the bleed screw and depressing the clutch pedal and i done this for nearly an hour and with no better results because it's still spurting air..
Next i tried bleeding it from the slave cylinder.. i've been doing this for about 20 minutes to no avail and it continues to spurt air and brake fluid
any ideas?
Right now i'm bleeding my clutch and i cant get any pressure in my master cylinder
First i tried bleeding it normally by unscrewing the bleed screw and depressing the clutch pedal and i done this for nearly an hour and with no better results because it's still spurting air..
Next i tried bleeding it from the slave cylinder.. i've been doing this for about 20 minutes to no avail and it continues to spurt air and brake fluid
any ideas?
#2
Nordschleife Master
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Maybe the piston is not coming up enough to allow fluid to enter. Re-adjust the rod on the clutch to give about 1/2 inch of slack at the rod.
#4
Racer
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ok i'm bleeding the clutch from the slave cylinder again and the problem i'm having is that when i release the bleed screw ,after pumping and realeasing, air gets sucked back in
#5
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Close the bleed screw. I unbolted the slave and left the hydraulic line in tact, so you can't get the slave all the way out, but you can get it out far enough. Place a block of wood in the inspection hole and push the slave cylinder into the block of wood, thus pushing the push rod into the cylinder. Then open the bleed screw and watch all the buddles come pouring out. Don't operate the clutch until the push rod is seated back correctly.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
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this is what i'm already doing rez ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
what i need to know is how many times i need to do this and why each time i re open the bleed screw air gets sucked back in, this is with the rod already fully extended
this is what i'm doing correct me if i'm wrong
(btw this is my first time doing a job like this, i'm a 19 yr old college student if anyone wanted to know)
open bleed screw > pump slave cylinder> close bleed screw > relieve slave > re-open bleed screw (this is the part where air is getting sucked back in) > Repeat
i'm doing this slowly and easily and the slave is actually completely out of the bell housing
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
what i need to know is how many times i need to do this and why each time i re open the bleed screw air gets sucked back in, this is with the rod already fully extended
this is what i'm doing correct me if i'm wrong
(btw this is my first time doing a job like this, i'm a 19 yr old college student if anyone wanted to know)
open bleed screw > pump slave cylinder> close bleed screw > relieve slave > re-open bleed screw (this is the part where air is getting sucked back in) > Repeat
i'm doing this slowly and easily and the slave is actually completely out of the bell housing
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
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uhm help....
OK, i've got a power bleeder up against the bleed screw and i'm pumping away but i'm not getting ANY FLUID, not only that but i hear bubbling from above
OK, i've got a power bleeder up against the bleed screw and i'm pumping away but i'm not getting ANY FLUID, not only that but i hear bubbling from above
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#8
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Reservoir is empty. Best way to do this job is with a real power bleeder, not a pseudo-power bleeder consisting of a vac pump and a jar. A true power bleeder works by forcing brake fluid into the reservoir via the fill cap at maybe 5 or 10 psi.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
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Ok guys, i'm at the point where i have an extremely firm pedal, both slave and master were bled properly,
BUT the problem i'm having now is there is no clutch engagement
i depress the pedal to put it into gear and it just grinds
BUT the problem i'm having now is there is no clutch engagement
i depress the pedal to put it into gear and it just grinds
#11
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You need an assistant to press the pedal for you while you observe through the hole under the bellhousing to see if the end of the rod is pushing the clutch actuating lever - It should move, from memory, about 3/4" at least thats for a single plate S4 clutch - anyone else help re twin plate clutch ?
The other thing worth doing is to take the lid of the reservoir - then force the slave pushrod back in to the cylinder (DO NOT OPEN THE BLEED NIPPLE) and hold it a couple of minutes, repeat until another beer calls. This will push the air bubbles out of the master cylinder and back up into the reservoir.
Good luck
Jon
Black SE
The other thing worth doing is to take the lid of the reservoir - then force the slave pushrod back in to the cylinder (DO NOT OPEN THE BLEED NIPPLE) and hold it a couple of minutes, repeat until another beer calls. This will push the air bubbles out of the master cylinder and back up into the reservoir.
Good luck
Jon
Black SE