Changing Brake Fluid
#1
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Are there any tricks to this job?
-I tried using a pressure bleeder once on my '85 S2. Wound up with brake fluid all over the floor: bad seal between the reservoir and the master cylinder. Well, I've finally found the time to replace these, so its brake fluid time.
1. From what I can see in diagrams and in person, it appears that the reservoir simply lifts up, and these seals can be accessed/replaced rather easily. I think.
2. Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder: I've read about removing it and pushing the rod back in. I guess this is done with the power bleeder cap in place? And how many times do you have to push it to the stop in order to properly bleed this? My car is sometimes hard to shift into 1st gear, and I suspect that I have had some entrained air in the slave cylinder for some time, despite the efforts of me and a professional mechanic to remove it....
?
N!
-I tried using a pressure bleeder once on my '85 S2. Wound up with brake fluid all over the floor: bad seal between the reservoir and the master cylinder. Well, I've finally found the time to replace these, so its brake fluid time.
1. From what I can see in diagrams and in person, it appears that the reservoir simply lifts up, and these seals can be accessed/replaced rather easily. I think.
2. Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder: I've read about removing it and pushing the rod back in. I guess this is done with the power bleeder cap in place? And how many times do you have to push it to the stop in order to properly bleed this? My car is sometimes hard to shift into 1st gear, and I suspect that I have had some entrained air in the slave cylinder for some time, despite the efforts of me and a professional mechanic to remove it....
?
N!
#2
Nordschleife Master
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The reservoir pulls up. Just be careful not to crack it.
Bleed the right rear first, then left rear, then RF then LF. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry or you have to start all over again.
For the clutch there's no prescribed number of times to do each step. Just repeat as necessary.
Bleed the right rear first, then left rear, then RF then LF. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry or you have to start all over again.
For the clutch there's no prescribed number of times to do each step. Just repeat as necessary.
#4
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I think what's in the brake lines right now is probably pretty nasty, so I'm planning on using regular DOT 3/4 for now. It'll probably be pretty easy to tell when it finally runs clean~
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#5
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If you're looking to flush out all of the old fluid, use a turkey baster or similar to empty the reservoir before you get started. You'll get clean fluid at the bleed screws much faster this way... BTDT. In the pic below I am using a generic squeeze bulb on the PS reservoir... it's meant for battery service, cost about $6, and is a very handy item to have around.
![](http://members.rennlist.com/sharkskin/Pages_SA_R08-EmptyReservoir.jpg)