Clutch master cylinder failing
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think my master cylinder has had it's last shift earlier today
The problem just started today, My clutch pedal is getting stuck when it is depressed all the way, and some times even just half the way in,
I checked around the clucth cylinder and i noticed that alot of fluid has leaked out around the rubber seal and into the carpet
Another problem i noticed and i'm not sure if this relates to the clutch, but just above the clutch pedal to the left is a tank that looks like 3 transparent sphere's fused together, This tank is empty and i'm not sure if this is the clutch fluid or the power stearing fluid
Please if anyone can help or recomend a solution or point me to a rebuild kit,
I called 928intl and spoke with tom and he told me the replacement part would be 75$ but if there is a way around this i would be willing to take it
The problem just started today, My clutch pedal is getting stuck when it is depressed all the way, and some times even just half the way in,
I checked around the clucth cylinder and i noticed that alot of fluid has leaked out around the rubber seal and into the carpet
Another problem i noticed and i'm not sure if this relates to the clutch, but just above the clutch pedal to the left is a tank that looks like 3 transparent sphere's fused together, This tank is empty and i'm not sure if this is the clutch fluid or the power stearing fluid
Please if anyone can help or recomend a solution or point me to a rebuild kit,
I called 928intl and spoke with tom and he told me the replacement part would be 75$ but if there is a way around this i would be willing to take it
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am fairly certain the 1979 master cylinder is the same as the 1980, and there is a rebuild kit available:
Clutch Master Rebuild Kit
Raybestos CMK1899
It can be a pain to crawl under the dash, but it is possible without removing the cylinder. If the bore is still smooth, and it's only the rubber seals which are the problem, it's definitely worth a shot. ~$25.00 if i recall correctly.
Bleeding the clutch is a whole different ballgame...
Clutch Master Rebuild Kit
Raybestos CMK1899
It can be a pain to crawl under the dash, but it is possible without removing the cylinder. If the bore is still smooth, and it's only the rubber seals which are the problem, it's definitely worth a shot. ~$25.00 if i recall correctly.
Bleeding the clutch is a whole different ballgame...
#4
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Search for instructions on re-building the master from inside the car.
The unit itself bolts up from the engine side of the firewall. I replaced the whole thing and it was a PITA...with the engine out!
The unit itself bolts up from the engine side of the firewall. I replaced the whole thing and it was a PITA...with the engine out!
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You WILL want to rebuild with the cylinder installed for two reasons:
1) It's a PITA. I had to R&R mine 3 times. (See #2)
2) The cylinder I bought (Genuine Porsche) was not compatible with the slave. Translated: The fluid volume displaced by the new master was less than then old master. Thus, the slave could not move through its travel range.
Finally I rebuilt the original, re-installed it, and all was well.
Good luck.
Scott
1) It's a PITA. I had to R&R mine 3 times. (See #2)
2) The cylinder I bought (Genuine Porsche) was not compatible with the slave. Translated: The fluid volume displaced by the new master was less than then old master. Thus, the slave could not move through its travel range.
Finally I rebuilt the original, re-installed it, and all was well.
Good luck.
Scott
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
where do i get the fluid that drained out?? Because i'm preaty sure the cylinder is running dry
And does anyone have any ideas of what that tank is for, the transparent tank that looks like three fuzed spheres....
also i think i'm out of power steering fluid but i have no idea which cap is for the power stearing, everyhthing is in German
And does anyone have any ideas of what that tank is for, the transparent tank that looks like three fuzed spheres....
also i think i'm out of power steering fluid but i have no idea which cap is for the power stearing, everyhthing is in German
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
Range Master
Pepsie Lite
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Pepsie Lite
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by indefactorX
where do i get the fluid that drained out?? Because i'm preaty sure the cylinder is running dry
And does anyone have any ideas of what that tank is for, the transparent tank that looks like three fuzed spheres....
also i think i'm out of power steering fluid but i have no idea which cap is for the power stearing, everyhthing is in German![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
And does anyone have any ideas of what that tank is for, the transparent tank that looks like three fuzed spheres....
also i think i'm out of power steering fluid but i have no idea which cap is for the power stearing, everyhthing is in German
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
On later models the fused spheres you mention are located in the driver side wheel well and are vacuum reservoir.............as previously mentioned.
The fluid leak on the inside of the firewall would come from the master cylinder, where the plunger is sealed to the inside wall of the cylinder. The seal is leaking.
#9
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The tank under the dash is the vacuum reservoir for the door locks. The clutch master fluid is supplied by the brake master reservoir via the "blue hose." In other words, clutch master reservoir and the brake master reservoir are one and the same.
The power steering fluid reservoir is mounted on the drinver's side of the engine bay near the radiator. It's metallic somewhat resembles a small coffee can. Remove the thumb screw and the entire top lifts off. The fill line is stamped into the housing. Automatic transmission fluid is used for power steering. Do not fill with "power steering" fluid, fill with Mercon ATF.
The power steering fluid reservoir is mounted on the drinver's side of the engine bay near the radiator. It's metallic somewhat resembles a small coffee can. Remove the thumb screw and the entire top lifts off. The fill line is stamped into the housing. Automatic transmission fluid is used for power steering. Do not fill with "power steering" fluid, fill with Mercon ATF.
#10
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In the engine compartment, directly in front of the driver's seat, is a large round device, mounted vertically, and partially under the front fender. This is the vacuum brake booster. The brake master cylinder is attached to the front of this booster. On top of the brake master cylinder is a translucent plastic reservoir with a black plastic cap. This is the brake fluid reservoir. The hydraulic clutch shares the fluid reservoir with the brakes. Fill the reservoir close to the bottom of the filler neck using new, high-quality DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, such as Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid. Do not use silicone fluid.
The power steering fluid reservoir is at the left front corner of the engine compartment. Use Dexron ATF, not power steering fluid in this reservoir.
You might find this
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/underthe.htm
interesting. It is an S4, so some things will look different.
Nichols has many, many useful tips on the 928, and some clutch tips are here
http://www.nichols.nu/cat10.htm
I would suggest that you contact Jim Morehouse and buy the 928 tech info CD set that he has prepared. The set includes a HUGE amount of tech info. Jim's email address is
jim928@ptd.net
The power steering fluid reservoir is at the left front corner of the engine compartment. Use Dexron ATF, not power steering fluid in this reservoir.
You might find this
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/underthe.htm
interesting. It is an S4, so some things will look different.
Nichols has many, many useful tips on the 928, and some clutch tips are here
http://www.nichols.nu/cat10.htm
I would suggest that you contact Jim Morehouse and buy the 928 tech info CD set that he has prepared. The set includes a HUGE amount of tech info. Jim's email address is
jim928@ptd.net
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
alright guys, i got the new master cylinder from 928 intl and pulled out the old internals from the existing master cylinder and slid in the new ones, i have a problem though, I can't get the thing to bleed, is it a good idea to pull the plunger in the master cylinder out a little bit to get fluid into the cylinder???
Any other help or ideas are apreciated
Any other help or ideas are apreciated
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by indefactorX
alright guys, i got the new master cylinder from 928 intl and pulled out the old internals from the existing master cylinder and slid in the new ones, i have a problem though, I can't get the thing to bleed, is it a good idea to pull the plunger in the master cylinder out a little bit to get fluid into the cylinder???
Any other help or ideas are apreciated
Any other help or ideas are apreciated
#15
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by indefactorX
sounds like a good idea, wish i could do it right now but it's raining
do i do this with the nipple off of the slave cylinder?
do i do this with the nipple off of the slave cylinder?
indent before trying the clutch pedal again.