mark kibort

Its all ball park. but i have some pretty strong coorelation data points, you must admit. You want to use center of the window? knock yourself out. tension light, 1/2 turn, no tension light and 5.7 reading after a race, points to the tool being probably at least more accurate than the KP tool, but now that ive calabrated to that tool, i feel comfortable with between the half and the end of the window. i certainly would not feel comfortable at half way, as the tool was showing that at 4.5 on its scale. how off can the tools be?? I certainly am a newbee there. i have a hard time understanding how the tool got stiffer and not softer.
anway, im sure we all toss salt over our shoulder when we button the covers up and start the car.

I even drilled a hole in the bottom of the cam cover to push a shaft with a spring on it, and mark the tension that way, to not have to pull the covers for a ballpark measurement. now, thats ball park.

mk

heinrich

Where would overfill leak out Mark? Your oil is likely leaking the same way the original oil leaked.

martin D

I would agree with you John as at the Euro 2003 928 meet Jay demonstrated his tool( or rather others got their hands dirty & jay just watched & gave instructions) & Jay said middle for 16v & upper for 32v

mark kibort

thats what i was thinking, but the leak was out the front seal, when i was pumping it in with gear oil pump. after the seal was removed you could see the oil level in the tensioner. obviously, when you screwed in the tensioner, the oil was forced out the front. when i filled the tensioner, the belt was not on the car. i filled it just as it started running out the second bleeder valve. i felt the rubber seal and it felt like there was oil in there too. I imagine that when i was tightening the tensioner, i must have pressureized the seal and the seal is leaking out the sides. (i cant see now that it is all buttoned up.) however, its not going out the rear and it is not coming out the block.

????????????????

may have to pull the center cover and see what there is to see.

the oil leak is much better now after the first couple of drives.

mk

heinrich

I've never seen oil come out through the plunger side of the tensioner Mark, but maybe it's just me. Good test is to wait a while and try filling it via the bleeder/fill screws and see. If there is enough oil in there you are set. If not, it's leaked out at the block. My money is at the block.

Mike LaBranche

Wrenching, measuring, adjusting are techniques that are going to get implemented three different ways by three different guys. The Herr Kempf measuring device is simple, pretty darn accurate, easy to apply, and consistent. The instructions are printed on a small 3-fold pamphlet; the tension window is probably within 5% of P tool; if I measure at the same tooth gap, I get the same reading or one that reflects the change in belt tension from the last time I checked it. I honestly think t-belt failure is mostly gross negligence. Getting everyone to apply a tool, even one that is just close to the calibrated, NASA approved, read out to 3 decimals version... is a good thing. At what? $50... it's a steal. Just getting it pretty close allows the hardware to deal with the delta left from optimum.

And you guys lay off Kibort over the cam chain gear. I would have fixed it but then I'm not as fast as Mark. And neither are most of you. There's a fine line between the vehicle used to attain speed and the pilot that gets it there and maintains. Mark seems to be about the drive. That piece didn't change the performance very much, thankfully didn't fail out right, and his beast ran the season. You only have so much time, attention, $$.