Mads

Hi

Today i found out that the inner dust cover on the left drive shaft was broken
Is it possible to change the dust cover ? somewhere i heard that the drive shaft is welded i one, is that true ?
I actually have a new dust cover, bougth it together with some other 928 stuff on ebay, but i'm not sure it's the right one... can you guys help me out ?

the partnumber is 901.332.293.12. here is a pic of it..
BTW the car is a 1989 S4 Auto.

regards

Mads

borland

eBay.... That boot might actually be older than your car.

Jim bailey - 928 International

That CV boot fits ONLY the 78-81 axles(driveshaft) You need 928 332 924 02 for your year. The outer cv joint is welded and the stub axle (through the wheel hub) comes off with the axle. To change the outer boot you must also remove the inner boot and CV joint(snap ring) and slide the boot down the axle to cover the outer c v joint after you have cleaned and greased it . So get two boot kits and remove the axle and stub axle assembly ,the big rear axle nut is very ,very tight.

Vipermad

Jim,
Can you elaborate on the rear axle nut? VipermadJr and I plan to do all four of his boots (79 Euro), and from all that I have read, I was only looking to remove each axle shaft by removing the bolts (in a circular area) at each end. (yeah, like THAT made sense!?!?!?!)

The plan, since it is his to learn on, was to put the car on the lift and show him the bolts to take out....and go have a beer or three. Is there another bolt I gotta show him? Will I then have time for another beer(s)? TIA!

jpitman2

Vipermad, if you have bolts on the outer CV joint, you can do that and not disturb the BIG nut on the stub axle. I have seen a guy who can expand the small end of the boots OVER the whole joint and install new boots without removing any joints from shaft...sort of very strong speculum - makes my eyes water. The later boots have a deep ridge on the inside of the large end to engage in a groove on the joint, to help sealing against dust and water. If your joints have this groove, look for the right boots, but I think the early cars with separate stubs did not have these style.
good luck
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k, done 2 boots so far....

Jim bailey - 928 International

The early car axles the outer cv is NOT captive / welded on . So removal is unbolting the allen bolts on both inner and outer C V .

Vipermad

jpitman.....LOL!!! Makes MY eyes water as well!!

Jim...I was pretty sure that was the ticket. Thanks for the clarification!! Looks like I get to realx with some cold ones while my son learns what it means to have a "project".

Duh......I think I spoke with you the other night (might have been Mark??), and we'll be in touch about the boot kits as well as a steetring rack (though the steering rack will take BOTH of us some time to stash away some $$$ that mom/wife doesn't really know about). I did get a GREAT e-mail from fellow Rennlister John K with pictures and all....I just got worried there for a second, like I was gonna have to give up my beer to actually help him!!

Jim bailey - 928 International

Viper just be sure he cleans out the heads of the allen bolts and uses a good allen socket when taking off the bolts or it becomes a much bigger project when they round out !! Those bolts often are "torqued" with a rattle gun and are far too tight. If one does get rounded very tight vice grips often will break one free.

Vipermad

Hmmmm, I see some sore knuckles in his future! I think he'll be good-to-go, but I'm not gonna let him order the parts till he has the shafts off.

Jim bailey - 928 International

When you order the boots you need the ones shown on the first post but the part # 928 332 922 01 is what you need and they MUST be Porsche OEM the standard aftermarket boot commonly sold is just a bit too small . They will stretch over but it is way too tight. I sell the OEM Porsche boots for this application . The later C V boots need not be OEM or in Porsche box to fit correctly.

Deb

This is probably heresy but what the hel - I put a set of split boots on a Prelude some years ago and they held up for at least 5 yrs. -frequently inspected- what's the pros word on them. Sure is much easier than conventonal boots.

Vipermad

Thanks Jim.....I am sure Jr. will be reviewing ALL threads having to do with this task, and we'll be calling.

Good question Deb. I have typically stayed away from IFS/IRS vehicles needing these things...just a PITA from the days of the lifted S-10 4X4!! LOL!! I don't see why a split boot wouldn't work...as long as the drop angle isn't too great. It seems to me that if the shaft angle was steep, that "split" would have to handle the contortions of accordian-like movement.

What the heck do I know, though...I'm just a shade-tree mechanic with NO tree.

Deb

Don't know about the angle and stress on the boot joint/seam but once the supplied solvent is applied I didnt see any weakness or potential seperation.
it's sure is a h. of alot easier and probably less expensive than the conventional boot.