perrys4

Porken...I like!!!! Keeps the stock look of the car without the headaches. Very nice job. Piia lights?

Nicloe...Just a case of lazy eye. No big deal. ( just kiddin )

Nicole

I would say that the difference between both lights when they are retracted is approximately 3/8 of an inch.

I have seen this adjuster, but did not fiddle with it, becaues the whole assembly is off, compared to the other side. This means, even the cover that flips up with the lights and closes the "hole" is futher down on the drivers side. Basically, the whole assembly on the drivers side is a couple of degrees off...

Nicole

I believe you are talking about #s 19-21 on my diagram. Those are the bolts I thought would allow me to do my adjustment, but losening them did not allow me to rotate the assembly. I was able to move it in and out, but not rotate it. What am I missing?

Either way, it is clear to me that the stops will have to be adjusted once I have rotated the assembly into the right position. But that's indeed a secondary issue.

wds928

Nicole:

I believe #'s 19-21 in the PET diagram adjust only the left/right movement within the headlight hole. To adjust up and down motion, #15, which are the 10mm bolts accessable from the engine side of the fender and bolt throught the plastic #3 bushing and into #14 "C" lockbolt are the ones to loosen and adjust. The rearward of these two bolts has a slot in the fender/engine compartment wall which allows up and down movement. The forward bolt is in a fixed hole.

I was able to get at my bolts using a 1/4" drive socket with a long extension and universal adapter. Just loosen the rearward bolt a couple of turns and the forward bolt a bit less. I had the headlight in the "up" position when I did this, then pull the headlight forward until it hits the stop and re-tighten the bolts.

Hope this helps.

Bill

hupp

Nicole,

I had the same problem, in fact I spent some time this weekend correcting the issue. My drivers side head lamp sat a bit higher than the passanger side when retracted. The fix, via Randy V -- screw the 10mm adjustment bolt until proper height is obtained. Tried this, no success. The problem was that my headlamp (Bosch H4) was not properly adjusted (focused) via the two adjustment screws on the lamp under the cowling.

Try removing the cowling and focus your head lamps against the garage wall.

hupp

Something I learned during my headlight adjustment excercise this weekend:

The lamps can be centered in the fender cut-outs by loosening the 10mm bolts under the ender lip and on light tube, but this will not remedy the problem of the lamps resting at two different angles. One must check the focus of the lamps and the stop adjustment under the fender well in order to remedy this.

Nicole

Dave (SharkSkin) had asked for some pictures. I don't have a direct front shot available, so the difference is a little hard to see. I'd say it is about 3/8 of an inch, but enough to make the drivers side light blind oncoming traffic...

There was a better one taken in April at the meeting point for a BAR fun drive, but I can't find that one anymore.

Nicole

Ah, just found the one I had been looking for... Here it is!

John Struthers

Nichole,
You have a bunch of conflicting info.
I will agree that you MIGHT have to do a slight lamp adjustment after loosening the two bolts. I mentioned and you tried before.
I'm thinking that the stops or possibly a tight fit is the culprit for your problem -not being able to twist the bucket assembly fore and aft.
If you absolutely cannot twist the end tube -connected to the bucket base - and rotator tube, then your only option is the 'C' clamp adjustment at the bulkhead which can give you vertical play to adjust the bucket seating depth you are looking for. Like Bill I used a 1/4" rachet -you can use a short offset wrench but that to is a pita- to loosen those two bolts on the 'C' . Don't remove them and only loosen enough to get the job done.
As I mentioned before the stops themselves might be part of your problem, in your case I'd suspect that the upper stop is keeping you from twisting forward while the bucket is rased.
FWIW
I just did an experiment on Pattycakes -while messing with the spoiler-.
With both upper and lower stops just hanging, the buckets raised and lowered to the correct position.
I'm assuming that the short ear at the linkage portion of the rotator bar bottoms in that split plastic guide and prevents the bucket from going any further forward once the bucket is adjusted properly.
Also, FWIW, IMO
Adjusting the beam (light/lamp) by itself will do nothing to correct your problem.
It's the end tube and/or the C clamp.
Let us know, O.K.?

SharkSkin

That's a pretty subtle difference. When the ball and socket is completely popped out it makes the light rest much lower, as in my pic. There could still be a problem in that area, just not properly repaired. It's hard to tell in these pics... but if the front(bottom) edge of the light is raised about the same amount that the rear(top) edge is lowered(referring to retracted position) then it's likely an issue in the pod itself(ball & socket). If that's not the case, then the problem is more likely in the way that the main pivot is set up.

HTH

Nicole

Thanks, guys! I hope I'll be able to get to it on the weekend. If not this weekend, well, then I migh thave to do ti much later in the month. When I first looked at it, I did not expect that I might have to remove fender liner etc, which is much more involved than just making an adjustment in the engine compartment area...

I'll keep you updated!

SharkSkin

Best of luck with it! BTW, fender liner comes out in about 1 minute with a small 10mm socket. Maybe a minute and a half if you pull the lower liner. Jack optional.

Nicole

Not on my car. You've got to remove the main fender liner first, before you can access the front / lower liner...

Lift car, remove front wheel, remove all bolts for main liner, fiddle the thing out of there, remove bolts for front liner, fiddle the thing out of there,... I'd say 1/2 hour min for the amateur...

SharkSkin

Ouch... I didn't realize there was so much extra stuff up in there on the later cars.

heinrich

Nicole, no need to remove wheel and fender liner. Your problem is obvious from the pics. As someone said, just get a long extension and I believe 10mm socket, and loosen the two bolts that hold the light bar to the engine / wheel well divider sheet metal. Standing in front of the car, it is by your right knee, between the little amplifier-looking thingie and the headlight, under the fender lip on the engine side. Once slightly loose, pull the headlight off its rest as you described, and jiggle it back and forth vertically so you move the light bar up a bit at that end. Hold it there and tighten the bolts. Only one bolt is an adjuster, the front one just holds the light bar on.

For raising the position of the light when retracted, there is a rest stop but that will indeed require going in under the fender liner or at least loosening belly pan; pulling alternator cooler off and snaking your hand up there.

Heinrich
ps: be careful when adjusting, sometimes the fender lip at the front of the headlight is so close to the light pivot mechanism that raising the light may allow it to damage the fender lip there. In that case you will need to adjust the fender mount and raise the fender fronm below to clear the light mechanism ... we wouldn't want to shove the fender skyward every time we turned our headlamps on