checkmate1996

Ok, I removed my dash pod out without too many headaches. Nichols rocks! One tip that is not clearly mentioned in Nichols about the pod removal for early cars, 79, is there is a little philips head screw that locks the turn signals and other switches on the column. Loosen this screw and the switches easily remove. The pod then nicely slides off the ignition switch. Once the pod has slid past the ignition switch, gently turn the pod toward the ground to remove the final electrical conneciton to the circuit board. BTW, this all is a lot easier without the driver's seat!

I've just replaced the darn odometer gear(can't believe this just crumbled in my hand-what was Porsche thinking...?) ...I'm going to replace the light bulbs and clean the mirror underneath, however what else can be checked or repalced while the dash is out? Vaccuum lines?

Is there away to power-up the pod WITHOUT connecting to your car's battery but another 12v source to check for problems? I'm would like to test the light bulbs? Is there alternate way to test these?

Also, is there way to test the circuit board to make sure everything is working?

I appreciate any help...

Mark

BRAD -

While you have it apart - I would definitely replace the circuit board. At 25 years old - if it ain't bad now - it won't be long! It is NOT an expensive part. (IIRC - around $50-75).

Also - while the pod is out - it is VERY easy to get to the ground points under that side of the dash. Remove and clean thouroughly.

As to testin the bulbs - if you can read the wiring diagrams in the WSM, i am sure there is a way to do it. Maybe someone that HAS done it will chime in.

hupp

I'm supprised to learn that the circuit board is that affordable. Is it relatively easy to change?

checkmate1996

once you have the dash pod apart it's a piece of cake. It's similar to working on some old computers...if you are familiar with that...even if you haven't it's pretty straightforward...

hupp

I've had my pod off before for bulb replacement and upper steering bearing replacement. I noticed the circuit board and it looks as if it simply lifts off of the gage cluster once the accessories (bulbs, etc.) have been removed. Is this all that is involved with removing? The pod will be coming back off for odometer repair next so I guess the laminated circuit will be replaced as well.

Any tips on the odometer repair are welcome.

checkmate1996

Since I just did the replacement it'll be fresh...PM me or email I can give some tips if necessary...

BTW, does anyone know what the signs of a failing circuit board would be?

bd0nalds0n

I've heard also it's helpful to take some scotch-brite or abrasive pad to the metal surfaces where the "ribbon cables" connect.

The vacuum pod for the defroster flap is located behind the instrument pod. Most write-ups regarding the defroster flap pod just say "good luck," which is intimidating, but it's really an easy change over. Consider doing this as a preventative measure while the instrument pod is out. Easiest to get a new vacuum pod and swap out the guts. Dash and Console do not have to come out.

I also like the idea of doing the upper steering bearing. It's not expensive (~$23 IIRC, 928 Int'l) and the bearing is not particularly sturdy. Another WYAI.

My visualization of the instrument pod is of my own, an S4, so the earlier years may differ, but be careful reconnecting the odometer reset and driving light plugs--they can be reversed. BTDT. My odometer switch turned on the driving lights, the driving light switch reset the odometer. The plug with more wires is the driving lights.

SharkSkin

Whoa! not a good idea... don't use anything more abrasive than a pencil eraser(the perfect tool for the job). Scotchbrite is much too agressive for this task.

checkmate1996

I agree with Sharkskin. All the information I read said pencil eraser...

checkmate1996

Ok. So I tried out a method for testing the lightbulbs and the circuit board. Rough, but it got me some results I was looking from. I purchased an AC to 12v DC converter for $40. used some existing electrical black/red wire and hooked it up. Then I proceeded to take the each wire and put it on the opposite side of each light bulb. Voila! if the light lit, we are golden. Then I tested the main dash lights First, I made sure all three were in the proper position. Then starting with the far left one (under the temp sensor) I applied the same method as above. Again, all three lit up indiciating ground and power were working.

I also took pictures of the speedhut gauges that I'm finally getting around to installing 2 years later...so far they look pretty good. You have to get creative with the 3m double sided tape but so far looks pretty good. I'm about 98% happy with the product. The true test though will be once they get in the car. Finally, my last issue is to figure out how to hard wire the 12v power from the gauges into the dash...

Mark

"Finally, my last issue is to figure out how to hard wire the 12v power from the gauges into the dash..."

Try the rheostat for the current pod light dimmer!

checkmate1996

ahh...that sounds likes a great place to start...have you tried this?