Temp Gauge Calibration
#1
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After rebuilding my viscous fan clutch, new hoses, distilled water, glycol, etc., the car still overheats in stop and go traffic. It is no doubt a problem of insufficient air circulation as there is no problem as long as the car is moving.
I note now however, that the overheating warning light now comes on at a lower indicated temperature than previous. It now energizes when the guage reaches the bar below the red band on the guage.
At what temperature Farenheit should the guage/warning light indicated a too hot coolant? Should I have checked/changed the thermostat? Radiator flush?
I note now however, that the overheating warning light now comes on at a lower indicated temperature than previous. It now energizes when the guage reaches the bar below the red band on the guage.
At what temperature Farenheit should the guage/warning light indicated a too hot coolant? Should I have checked/changed the thermostat? Radiator flush?
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#2
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So if you turn the interior heater on hot and set the blower to max does this bring the temperature down ??
When was your water pump last changed ??
Is the lower radiator hose significantly cooler than the upper ??
Chris
When was your water pump last changed ??
Is the lower radiator hose significantly cooler than the upper ??
Chris
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The best thing you can do at this point is to place a thermocouple in the top hose(outlet) and find out what the actual temp is at various points on the gauge.
Find the actual temp when the needle starts to move, when it its the first mark, second mark, when the fans come on, etc
Not sure what the spec is on your car, as it has a much more complicated cooling system than mine, but by doing this I was able to confirm that the fan kicks on within a couple of degrees of the 95°C that is called for, that this is one needle width below the red bar, etc.
Here is an example of an inexpensive thermocouple adapter for a multimeter. Pic here:
Look up the specs in the WSM & make sure the controls are operating properly.... then figure out how to map what the gauge says to reality.
Find the actual temp when the needle starts to move, when it its the first mark, second mark, when the fans come on, etc
Not sure what the spec is on your car, as it has a much more complicated cooling system than mine, but by doing this I was able to confirm that the fan kicks on within a couple of degrees of the 95°C that is called for, that this is one needle width below the red bar, etc.
Here is an example of an inexpensive thermocouple adapter for a multimeter. Pic here:
![](http://www.fluke.com/images/a80tk.gif)
Look up the specs in the WSM & make sure the controls are operating properly.... then figure out how to map what the gauge says to reality.
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