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Paint first. Don't paint over all the old glue on the firewall itself, just leave it as is- maybe wipe with some Non-California-compliant solvent before installing the new heatshield to soften up and activate the old glue a little.
Whew…it may not look like much but that was a lot of work and I still need to finish it up. I can at least see the light at the end of the tunnel. I’m taking this opportunity to go ahead and install a new blower resistor. As outlined in various posts and vendor directions, on early cars, it is necessary to pull pin 8 out of the harness and move pin 6 to its place. You will see the brown electrical tape showing this conversion. I also checked the vacuum actuators on the fresh air flap and center locations. Both held. Took apart the center actuator and cleaned the pod and coated the diaphragm with a little DC111… @Mrmerlin ’s favorite at safe-guarding long term rubber condition. Deoxit’d all the connection. Still need to pressure test the heater core and evaporator, reinstall resistor and install the freeze switch. I think I need to find a mounting solution for the new freeze switch, as the mount is not the same as later 928s. Most importantly, I cleaned and cleaned, which took the vast majority of the time. My hands are killing me.
I also threw in a pic of the windshield washer fluid fender area for fun.
Hopefully I will finish up the engine bay cleaning and ready for paint within the next couple days. Spent today organizing my freshly plated parts. Also, I was able to pressure test the radiator, oil cooler, heater core and evaporator. I have two radiators, one was good and one was not. The remainder of the items seem good-to-go. Thanks @Rob Edwards for the idea of how to test.
Hey all. Got the engine compartment painted. I have a new appreciation for professional painters, however, I’m pretty happy with the result thus far. Next up is the firewall barrier.
Need help on 2 things:
1. 92857309303 AC Pressure Line: the barrier/hydraulic portion of the hose is in need of servicing and I cannot find anyone that can or will do it. Can anyone help me out with a contact of someone that can replace that portion? I’m planning on continuing to run R12, so I would think a hydraulic line could do the trick?? A new line from Porsche is not cheap and I’d like to keep that as my last resort. HELP!
2. 92857442502 Clamping Bow for the intermediate rubber piece between the blower and the heater. Felix did not have these little guys and I was hoping to find a pair or a good alternative
That looks awesome, nicely done! There isn't some hydraulic hose place that services all the local farmers and truckers? If not this is an excuse to buy a hydrakrimp and some #8 (13/32" ID) AC barrier hose and re-do it yourself.
Get a roll of leftover Christmas wrapping paper and make a paper template that covers the heatshield area, then use _that_ as a template to cut and trim the DEI insulation to shape.
That looks awesome, nicely done! There isn't some hydraulic hose place that services all the local farmers and truckers? If not this is an excuse to buy a hydrakrimp and some #8 (13/32" ID) AC barrier hose and re-do it yourself.
You'd think. I went to Parker Triad which is all they do...hydraulics, and they wouldn't do it. I took it to the shop that services Porsche, Audi, etc. to get some help. They said take it to Parker...LOL Anyway, they are going to try and get it done for me since they have a relationship with them. I recently got the my sons' 335i and 944 serviced and spent a small fortune on the 335, so I think they felt sorry for me.
If this doesn't work, I'm going to be reaching out to you @Rob Edwards for help putting a tool and parts list together.
I’m sure this will come with mixed feelings from everyone, but since I’m not strictly tied to maintaining originality, I thought I’d try to modestly “personalize” Felix.
So, this is a bit of a pain in the butt. It isn’t as easy as making a template, at least with the DEI Heat Shield material. It fiberglassed backed “fabric” and doesn’t allow much give as you are working around the various contours of the bulkhead. We ended up doing sections with large-ish strips. I still need to go back and trim out all the holes and recesses, cut along the top border to allow for the molding to slide on, and paint the top section black to better match the original. I also harvested the top aluminum strip from the parts car to better secure everything.
Question: should I use DEI’s “tape” to go over the seams or do you think it will be fine as-is?