Alignment question
#1
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Alignment question
I have seen some posts on alignment for spirited driving on the street.
One sayed 1.2 degree camber front and 1.5 at rear and toe at zero or slight toe in.
Now to my question, does 1.5 degree mean 1 degree 30 min or 1 degree 50 min?
I'm not very good at this and really could use some help here.
Ridehight are set to 172 front and 173 rear, current toe front are +0.01 L
and +0.02 R, Camber at 1.21 L and 1.14 R.
Rear are at +0.04 L and + 0.03 R, Camber are at 1.34 L and 1,32 R.
Caster are 4.08 L and 4.03 R, a bit on the high side maybe?
Will there be any noticable difference if caster were lowered?
Cheers/Peter
One sayed 1.2 degree camber front and 1.5 at rear and toe at zero or slight toe in.
Now to my question, does 1.5 degree mean 1 degree 30 min or 1 degree 50 min?
I'm not very good at this and really could use some help here.
Ridehight are set to 172 front and 173 rear, current toe front are +0.01 L
and +0.02 R, Camber at 1.21 L and 1.14 R.
Rear are at +0.04 L and + 0.03 R, Camber are at 1.34 L and 1,32 R.
Caster are 4.08 L and 4.03 R, a bit on the high side maybe?
Will there be any noticable difference if caster were lowered?
Cheers/Peter
#3
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Come on, isn't there any one who can shead some light on the alignment mystery?
1.5 camber is that 1 deg 50 mins or half of a degree 30 mins?
I'm sure there are some knowledge to share on this?
Thanks/Peter
1.5 camber is that 1 deg 50 mins or half of a degree 30 mins?
I'm sure there are some knowledge to share on this?
Thanks/Peter
#5
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Peter
the two people to help you are it seems Earl Gillstrom and Eric from Denmark.
Check out Grahams post in this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...c&pagenumber=2
apolgies if the format is all wrong
As for your question 1.50 degrees is 1 deg 30 mins. The other figures you quoted read like rim measurements and are dependant on rim size.
Regds
Jon
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Slate Grey 91 GT
the two people to help you are it seems Earl Gillstrom and Eric from Denmark.
Check out Grahams post in this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...c&pagenumber=2
apolgies if the format is all wrong
As for your question 1.50 degrees is 1 deg 30 mins. The other figures you quoted read like rim measurements and are dependant on rim size.
Regds
Jon
Black SE
Slate Grey 91 GT
#6
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Hej Peter,
I recommend you to read my artickel in the magazine '928 Forum' # 4
Regarding your questions:
# Adjust according to the factory specification - You shall be very advanced to getting better result by going outside this
# Yes as Ed said one and a half - 1 degree is 60 minute
# Heigh Caster make a slow steering - Most properly the reason for the heigh caster is longitudinal slake in the upper A-arms - Relatively easy to remove by installing a poly-ring 25/60Ø x 4 mm at the rear upper link
# Every thing change if/when you lower the car - Also here very important to stich to the factory specification.
Kind regards from Erik in Denmark
Ps: You can find the 928 Forum magazine ASAP here: http://www.928forum.com/
You are also welcome to contact me direct
I recommend you to read my artickel in the magazine '928 Forum' # 4
Regarding your questions:
# Adjust according to the factory specification - You shall be very advanced to getting better result by going outside this
# Yes as Ed said one and a half - 1 degree is 60 minute
# Heigh Caster make a slow steering - Most properly the reason for the heigh caster is longitudinal slake in the upper A-arms - Relatively easy to remove by installing a poly-ring 25/60Ø x 4 mm at the rear upper link
# Every thing change if/when you lower the car - Also here very important to stich to the factory specification.
Kind regards from Erik in Denmark
Ps: You can find the 928 Forum magazine ASAP here: http://www.928forum.com/
You are also welcome to contact me direct
#7
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Hej Erik, Jon and Ed
thanks for helping and giving valuable input on this.
My caster value is like that because the shop set it there.
I have renovated my a-arms and put in polybushings and they feel like new.
Heard that the left and right caster difference were more important than the value itself but maybe steering respons will be slower with the higher setting.
My ridehight are adjusted to spec. so that should be ok.
Reason for toying with the camber settings is that i prefer twisty roads before highway driving.
I'm picking up two 9" clubsport wheels with ET 60, does anyone know if they can be changed to ET 65?(16" forged)
Is there enough goods to shave 5 mm of, found a company that offer this service in paralell with straightening and painting wheels.
I'm currently having 7" with 225 tyres front from the 951 turbo, and 9" rear with 245 tyres used on the -89GT.
So I'm looking to use the same up front as rear with 245 tyres.
Cheers/Peter
thanks for helping and giving valuable input on this.
My caster value is like that because the shop set it there.
I have renovated my a-arms and put in polybushings and they feel like new.
Heard that the left and right caster difference were more important than the value itself but maybe steering respons will be slower with the higher setting.
My ridehight are adjusted to spec. so that should be ok.
Reason for toying with the camber settings is that i prefer twisty roads before highway driving.
I'm picking up two 9" clubsport wheels with ET 60, does anyone know if they can be changed to ET 65?(16" forged)
Is there enough goods to shave 5 mm of, found a company that offer this service in paralell with straightening and painting wheels.
I'm currently having 7" with 225 tyres front from the 951 turbo, and 9" rear with 245 tyres used on the -89GT.
So I'm looking to use the same up front as rear with 245 tyres.
Cheers/Peter
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#8
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Hello Peter,
See: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=141634
928 Forum # 4 is still avalabel
Good luck with your project
Regards from Erik in Denmark
See: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=141634
928 Forum # 4 is still avalabel
Good luck with your project
Regards from Erik in Denmark
#10
Eric,
In your post on reducing the castor, you mention the poly ring install and just to clarify, does the install of the ring go between the upper arm rear bolt and the body and thereby move the upper ball joint forward?
what castor setting would recomend for quicker turning?
Oh ya, slake is a new word to me. Means same as angle?
glenn
In your post on reducing the castor, you mention the poly ring install and just to clarify, does the install of the ring go between the upper arm rear bolt and the body and thereby move the upper ball joint forward?
what castor setting would recomend for quicker turning?
Oh ya, slake is a new word to me. Means same as angle?
glenn
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Originally posted by glenn faken
Eric,
1. In your post on reducing the castor, you mention the poly ring install and just to clarify, does the install of the ring go between the upper arm rear bolt and the body and thereby move the upper ball joint forward?
2. what castor setting would recomend for quicker turning?
3. Oh ya, slake is a new word to me. Means same as angle?
glenn
Eric,
1. In your post on reducing the castor, you mention the poly ring install and just to clarify, does the install of the ring go between the upper arm rear bolt and the body and thereby move the upper ball joint forward?
2. what castor setting would recomend for quicker turning?
3. Oh ya, slake is a new word to me. Means same as angle?
glenn
1. Yes excatly
2. acording to the factory specification
My car turns like a go-kart, but that's another story, and due to the facht that I removed the Bump Steer, and the four rubber bushes in the steering rack - One day I will write an article about these matter - I still don't know why Porsche made it soft and spongy as they did, maybe for pleasing the american customers
Regards from Erik in Denmark
3. Yes that is half danish and not angle - shout be play - Sorry
#12
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Hi Mika,
I am not an militairy man and cannot comments the danish air-force, but maybe they are armateurs compared to the canadiens, at least they are smaler - But sometime the small are more quick that the big
Regards from Erik in Denmark
I am not an militairy man and cannot comments the danish air-force, but maybe they are armateurs compared to the canadiens, at least they are smaler - But sometime the small are more quick that the big
Regards from Erik in Denmark
#13
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Hi Erik,
i'm confused by the size of the poly ring if it should sit between the a-arm rear bolt and the body.
Why not use a steel washer instead?
I tested to mount my 9" rear wheels in front tonight and it works.
Will testdrive more tomorrow but it felt good with more rubber in the front.
Need to have the suspension to settle to make final judgement though.
/Peter
i'm confused by the size of the poly ring if it should sit between the a-arm rear bolt and the body.
Why not use a steel washer instead?
I tested to mount my 9" rear wheels in front tonight and it works.
Will testdrive more tomorrow but it felt good with more rubber in the front.
Need to have the suspension to settle to make final judgement though.
/Peter
#14
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Hej Peter,
The upper A arms are fixed to the body via 2 rubber bushes - The rear bushes are controlling the longitudinal play - you place the polyring at the rear rubber bushes for reducing the play and pushing the A arms forwards.
I have a photo, but cannot get the Rennlist photo-upload to work.
If you want this photo, then send me your e-mail addressee
Regards from Erik in Denmark
The upper A arms are fixed to the body via 2 rubber bushes - The rear bushes are controlling the longitudinal play - you place the polyring at the rear rubber bushes for reducing the play and pushing the A arms forwards.
I have a photo, but cannot get the Rennlist photo-upload to work.
If you want this photo, then send me your e-mail addressee
Regards from Erik in Denmark
#15
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