West German car in Trabi Garage
#76
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, the 2 piece plastic shields ahead of the front tire on the left side fender well needs to be removed to get access to the other end of this hose. You may need to postpone replacing it until after the car can be moved and the screws that hold that panel in place can be accessed (most easily done with the tire/wheel off, of course!.
Last edited by Gary Knox; 08-26-2024 at 04:29 PM.
#77
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks….was what I was afraid of.
wheels are off….I tilted them under the car to get them off.
i can get at the liner bolts, just not sure if I have the space to maneuver the hose out.
do I need to unbolt the two screws holding the hose bracket to the liner as well to acsess or can I leave it attached to the liner?
all the best,
David
wheels are off….I tilted them under the car to get them off.
i can get at the liner bolts, just not sure if I have the space to maneuver the hose out.
do I need to unbolt the two screws holding the hose bracket to the liner as well to acsess or can I leave it attached to the liner?
all the best,
David
#78
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The reservoir could have been overfilled and brake fluid flowed onto the master cylinder. Brake fluid QUICKLY dissolves paint, so it would become unprotected steel, which rusts quickly in air if the relative humidity is above 50-60%.
Great work you are doing in the Tabi garage'. Took a ride in one on a visit to Berlin a few years back. Certainly not built by Porsche!! - HA.
Gary
Great work you are doing in the Tabi garage'. Took a ride in one on a visit to Berlin a few years back. Certainly not built by Porsche!! - HA.
Gary
I think you have somthing here...I pulled off the cap for the to the brake fluid resiviour and whe I put it back on it did not close completly...looks like the plastic threads are striped, so turn too far equals loose.
it get tight then drops off.
must be the sorce of a leek.
regards,
DDay
#79
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well still waiting for my Transmission back place from the Machinest...
So in the meantime I am at pulling the Exhaust and have a question on stratagy/Proceedure.
Have the clamps off (not much rust) and the midection support.
What the Best was to Pull the pipe junction apart???????
Have the car 42cm off the floor so not much room, this seemed easier when I was 40 years younger like the car
many thanks in advance for any advice,
DDay
So in the meantime I am at pulling the Exhaust and have a question on stratagy/Proceedure.
Have the clamps off (not much rust) and the midection support.
What the Best was to Pull the pipe junction apart???????
Have the car 42cm off the floor so not much room, this seemed easier when I was 40 years younger like the car
many thanks in advance for any advice,
DDay
Last edited by dday830; 09-26-2024 at 01:44 PM.
#81
Rennlist Member
I start from the back - remove the muffler, (or just the connections to the muffler if possible), then the tubes that connect from the headpipes to the muffler can be 'twisted' in order to break up the corrosion between the pipes at the joint you show. Might spray some penetrating oil into that junction as well and let set overnight before twisting those pipes and pulling them to the rear for removal. Always worked on all 7 928's I've owned in the past 25 years!
Gary
Gary
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dday830 (09-01-2024)
#83
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Thread Starter
Hi all...sorry I seem to be bouncing from one area to another but when I get stalled at one end for part I jump to another area I can work on.
Yesterday the back plate from the machine shop arrived all ready to go, the fill plug was according to them no easy job thanks toFeinMechanik Teltow GmbH for all you did!
I did not use any gasket sealer with the paper gasket. when I removed it it was not there and the area was a tight seal. hope I do not regret it.
Right now I am working on the fuel tank so I left the rear end work for now until that is done.
as an update I have the following done with thanks to your support:
All the best,
DDay
Yesterday the back plate from the machine shop arrived all ready to go, the fill plug was according to them no easy job thanks toFeinMechanik Teltow GmbH for all you did!
I did not use any gasket sealer with the paper gasket. when I removed it it was not there and the area was a tight seal. hope I do not regret it.
Right now I am working on the fuel tank so I left the rear end work for now until that is done.
as an update I have the following done with thanks to your support:
- Timing belt and water pump installed
- Camshaft gears were worn replaced
- Oil pump rebuildt and Alloy gear replaced
- Timing belt tensioner rebuilt
- All O-rings and seals replace for Cams & Crankshaft
- New Radiator to correct the Terry Gilliam abomination.
- New OEM oil lines replaced for the above Monty Python reference
- Motor Mounts installed & Mount brackets painted in Po5 15
- New Oil pan gasket....went old school and its cork!
- All new acsessory Belts....(probably should have revamped the AC to R134 but there seems to be R12 still in the system )
- Injectors removed and rebuilt with all new seals.
- All old fuel rail Hoses inspected and replaced in engine compartment.
- the usual tune up Plugs, wires, and airfilters replaced
- New 20w-50 and coolant added
- Twin distributor Belt change and new O-ring
- Remove Fuel tank and refurb entire area
- Replace Drivers side halfshaft differential seal
- Replace Shift coupling & dust cover
- Change brake and Clutch fluid
- Replace Alternator hose
- Reinstall original rims and Tires
All the best,
DDay
Last edited by dday830; 09-05-2024 at 06:44 AM.
#84
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well when I have a narrow garage and park 2 cars lengthwise. This is how I got at the *** end to drop the tank from the back door of the garage. Nice until it rains then my legs get very wet…..
#85
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey it all worked, thanks!
you did not mention howeve ttwisting was to be an hour wrestling match with the B**ch.... my bones hurt and I am not eager to do that on my back again ...not in my 20s anymore.
Muffler is off! now i can get at the Axel and change out the leaking drivers side Axel seal.
got at the seal no problem and pulled it... think I drove the new oe in tooo fat and it is not flush but recesed 1-2mm. Also noted the Cork gasket was missing on the axel. that was probably thei issue not the seal!
you did not mention howeve ttwisting was to be an hour wrestling match with the B**ch.... my bones hurt and I am not eager to do that on my back again ...not in my 20s anymore.
Muffler is off! now i can get at the Axel and change out the leaking drivers side Axel seal.
got at the seal no problem and pulled it... think I drove the new oe in tooo fat and it is not flush but recesed 1-2mm. Also noted the Cork gasket was missing on the axel. that was probably thei issue not the seal!
#86
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Greetings from Teltow!
I have he tank rear axel done and dusted.
Just tried to fire up the car ffor the first time but it sounds like the starter is not engagint to the flywheel.
Where is i go wrong in reassemply??
thaks for any wisdom.
DDay
I have he tank rear axel done and dusted.
Just tried to fire up the car ffor the first time but it sounds like the starter is not engagint to the flywheel.
Where is i go wrong in reassemply??
thaks for any wisdom.
DDay
#87
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Last edited by dday830; 09-14-2024 at 06:59 PM.
#88
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, the 2 piece plastic shields ahead of the front tire on the left side fender well needs to be removed to get access to the other end of this hose. You may need to postpone replacing it until after the car can be moved and the screws that hold that panel in place can be accessed (most easily done with the tire/wheel off, of course!.
The before shot...including frayed oil lines in the backround.
the rotten piece of Snuffelupigus Snout (happy to get its soot blowing schnoz of the way of my face)
The after photo...no one will eversee it but at the cost of the OEM parts I needed the photo to hang on my wall! (or to show others how "a fool lets his money get soon Parted")
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PK68 (09-16-2024)
#89
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Confirned A Gorilla must have torked down the old ones as the new ones do not go nearly as far in as the one that needed to be filed out.
New OEM Plugs
#90
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mostly in my workshop located in Sweden.
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The Trebant was a high-tech product developed by the communists in former East Germany. With 600cc and 26 horsepower, it was considered very safe as it could not reach the incredibly high speeds of the vehicles produced in capitalist West Germany. The body was made of plastic, which was considered to provide sufficient protection for an accident where capitalist cars were not involved.
Åke
Åke
Last edited by Strosek Ultra; 09-22-2024 at 10:24 AM.