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Wow - that is even more bizarre than I thought! No idea what the thought process was there. Depending on year both, one or neither side tanks are used for oil / trans cooling. Is that a means to get both side tanks in series?
Alan
Ok I have the Radiator out and all is revieled.
This is howsome "Euro Redneck" figured out how to connect a Right side oil coller from the Left side.....Not sure whay he did it.....but if one must here is how
I am not putting this abomination back in my car, looking for the proper correct Radiator, new Shroud and oil lines...Ouch this will cost me.
I went through Rennlist posts on settting the 16V motors to 45 degrees from TDC.
I found one post on 16v which stated when the drive shaft key is at 3 Oclock the valves will not hit the pistons.
in a second post I read when the motor is a 0TDC the proper position of the cams for safe service is 3 teeth to the left of the marks (photo red mark is cam at OTDC and White is 3 teeth left.
I thought I would try both and surprise the stars aligned and both methods work in sync.
Thought I would document to join these two posts into one if it was not already done.
OK, Knew the driveshaft seal was on the list but I am hard pressed to find out where I am not leaking oil (past 25 years inspections say "oil damp"). Think PO was just topping up.
my WSM is missing the distributor seal section and pardon my search skills if I have over looked. Is there a write up on changing the disributor seals and belt?
Ran into a snag which delayd my progress....Soaked all the water pump fasteners in penetrating oil but missed one out...so of couse it broke off in the block so need some tiime to extract.
Looks like the Cam seal on the left is toast so replaced it both sides even though the right was fine.
Breaking the bolt Loose on the Left side cam was too easy and the right side was difficult, could account for more wear on the Left side sproket than the right?
Oil pump gear is also the older alloy and toast so need to replace. same for the Cam Sprockets which are the original part number 928 105 530 01
I hear in the US you can get these recoated?....not sure if that is possible here so have ordered replacments at 300€ each .
these new ones are part number 928 105 530 04 as apossed to 928 105 530 01. Will I have problems lining up the marks with the new part or are the timing marks in the same position as on the previous part number?
There's four possible leaks in that area, the countershaft and drain plug you can see, along with the input shaft and the shift shaft above. I changed all three seals with the transmission out last winter, but I don't think I'd want to attempt it in the car. Hopefully others can tell you if it is possible while in place.
This car has not been on the road for a while and I understand from the PO there was an art to shifting from 3rd to 4th so may need to come out anyway.
I should have the car drivable in two weeks so will asses the transmisson then.
wouöd still like to hear from others what it could be and I can do the work in SITU.
Yes, the drain and fill plugs are tapered thread, so will need your favorite sealing compound.
There is a seal on the shift shaft, 928 303 120 01.
A larger seal on the input shaft, 928 302 167 03.
And an o-ring on the countershaft, 928 302 283 00.
I Now have the TB, water pump, all cam seals, distributor seal, twin dizzy belt done and reassembled.
Replaced the radiator with one from Dasis as well as the worn oil lines.
Motor mount bracket I refurbed with PUR-15 and waiting for the mounts to be delievered.
just as a note of interest I used a racheted flopy wrench to counterhold the Upper Crossmember bolt, it folded over perfectly so I could hold it from the other side until it locked itself inplace against the suspension.
With my motor mount challange in my other post I did not have much to do until the OEM Porsche mounts arrive so I went looking at the *** end again.
Transmissions outside of a '54 Healy are not my strong suit and particularly not a 928 Transaxel set up.
I need your collective wisdom.
a few questions here:
1) was going to change the transmission oil and pulled of the circlip on the fill tap. What kind of faster is the plug and what tool to I use to get it off?
2) The 2 Hex bleed nuts are larger then what I have in my arsenel, what size ar they?
I am leaking oil , seems to be from the drain plug above and peraps one on the seals above with the Allen key . Is the allen key seal somthing I can do in SITU?
I think there is a leak in the Drivers side CV boot the way oil is slung up against the undercarrage and below on the crossmember. can this be adressed in SITU?
My last question...saw this and it cant be right acoring to the PET diagram and I think I need to replace the dust cover....again is this a tranny out thing?
As I write this it seems to becoming clear to me I should probably pull the transmission to adress all the above, somthing I dread not being a tranmission kind of guy.
I agree, with all those leaks, I would also pull the transaxle to repair them. Removal is really not that big of a job, I did it with the car on jackstands.
The snap ring you removed is not a fill port, that is what retains the countershaft. The fill plug is the 17mm hex on the rear of the transaxle, above the drain plug. The other drain plug is on the front, below the countershaft. All three plugs are 17mm hex.
Originally Posted by dday830
1) was going to change the transmission oil and pulled of the circlip on the fill tap. What kind of faster is the plug and what tool to I use to get it off?
2) The 2 Hex bleed nuts are larger then what I have in my arsenel, what size ar they?
The small hex plug high up on the transmission is part of the selector shaft/shift linkage detents. I definitely would not remove those plugs unless the transmission is out of the car, there are plungers, and a spring behind the plugs.
Originally Posted by dday830
I am leaking oil , seems to be from the drain plug above and peraps one on the seals above with the Allen key . Is the allen key seal somthing I can do in SITU?
The output shaft bearing housing seals and o-rings can be changed in the car, but it is way easier with the transmission out. Same with the shift linkage rubber bellows, it can be done in place, but is was easier with the transmission and torque tube on the floor.
Originally Posted by dday830
I think there is a leak in the Drivers side CV boot the way oil is slung up against the undercarrage and below on the crossmember. can this be adressed in SITU?
My last question...saw this and it cant be right acoring to the PET diagram and I think I need to replace the dust cover....again is this a tranny out thing?
As I write this it seems to becoming clear to me I should probably pull the transmission to adress all the above, somthing I dread not being a tranmission kind of guy.
Thanks as always for your insight,
DDay
Last edited by Andrew Schauer; 08-11-2024 at 08:36 PM.
The output shaft bearing housing seals and o-rings can be changed in the car, but it is way easier with the transmission out. Same with the shift linkage rubber bellows, it can be done in place, but is was easier with the transmission and torque tube on the floor.[/QUOTE]
Awesome Andrew, many thanks to you for the detailed reply, very helpful!!
I have yet to get the car into second gear (got it for an outstanding price so did not question too much) so I think I will hold off on pulling the transmission before I can row it through all gears and see if anything else is lurking.
However since I have it up on stands think Ill attack the bearing shaft leak and shift boot.
am getting the parts list together...When you did the job what seals did you need to replace on the shaft bearing?
06-22-2024, 04:38 PM
