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Machinists use tapered wedges to remove tight fitting components like drill chucks from their arbors. They look like this:
If you can find a set with a wide enough opening, you may be able to place it behind the gear and tap the wedge until it loosens enough to remove it.
Nice. I just removed my gears from an '85 32V engine that I just finished tearing down. Not so cleanly that the washer wasn't sacrificed, but it wasn't a huge fuss either. I absolutely swear by the photo'd penetrating oil. A bit pricey, but I've never seen anything else like out. I just sprayed a little around the snout & Woodruff key, then tapped on it with a slide hammer while I spun the crank over. All told, it was probably a 10 minute affair.
Kimball-Midwest makes the best stuff, I too use this stuff and swear by it!
Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Nice. I just removed my gears from an '85 32V engine that I just finished tearing down. Not so cleanly that the washer wasn't sacrificed, but it wasn't a huge fuss either. I absolutely swear by the photo'd penetrating oil. A bit pricey, but I've never seen anything else like out. I just sprayed a little around the snout & Woodruff key, then tapped on it with a slide hammer while I spun the crank over. All told, it was probably a 10 minute affair.
The engine bay is looking pretty bare. I am tempted to do a bunch of WIAIT stuff but I need to stay focused on the motor. I do have a replacement HP PS line and coolant reservoir to get in there. What is a good replacement foam for the fuel cooler? The silver finish has come off the firewall but the pad is sill in excellent condition. Should I cover it with some heat reflective foil or leave it?
Radiator I found some evidence of coolant below the radiator when I removed it. I am concerned it may be leaking even through it was replaced in 2015. Today, I dropped it off to be pressure tested, the main core as well as the two coolers.
Ceramic Coating: I decided to have the exhaust manifolds and motor mount heat shields ceramic coated and those were dropped off today as well
Yellow zinc: I have a 5 gal bucket of parts needing cleaning and plating. I’m having difficulty finding a local source in Portland. I found one place the will charge $300minimum. How does that sound. Anyone have a good source locally?
heads: On Monday I dropped off the heads to have them cleaned and inspected. The cams were confirmed to be bad. The tech referred to the damage as ‘Delaminating’. I’ll be looking to replace the cams, lifters and springs with a performance parts list. I was advised GTS exhaust valves are subjected to high heat and some of those may need replacing. I ask the shop to pay attention to those as well as the valve guides.
Pistions: I am in the process of cleaning the pistons. There is a lot of carbon buildup on the faces and it’s taking a long time to clean them. I am soaking them in solvent and scrubbing the tops with stiff nylon brush. It’s taking days. I currently have 4 soaking as we speak. All the pistons are in similar condition and according GB they look to be in very decent condition and can be reused. Once I get them all cleaned I’ll bring them to a friend who will help me drill them out.
Work will pause for a week as I head out on vacation to Kelowna Canada. I’ve never been so it should be nice to go someplace new. Any list members up there?
Last edited by Michael Benno; 06-21-2024 at 02:47 PM.
With the engine out I would check/refresh the AC line
Yes, it would be a great time to redo the AC system. Too bad I already did that in 2022. I replaced the flexible hoses, compressor, expansion valve, receiver drier, and all the seals. I flushed the system and replaced the refrigerant, oil, and die. The AC system is working very well. But this may be a good time to clean the condenser fins.
If you have not considered it, this is time to replace the power steering lines to the power steering cooler and along the driver side to the power steering reservoir and the reservoir itself.
GTS carbon is a special type of carbon. Definitely try the Kleen-Strip, but if that doesn't work find a shop with a soda blaster, tape the skirts very well and let them soda blast the piston tops.
I used a carb cleaner, can't remember which one as it's over 7 years now, but it cleaned the piston tops as well as loosening the crud in the ring lands. I would soak the piston top, let it set over night, and then rotate the piston slightly up and down, and pieces of crud would be stuck on the cylinder walls from the ring land. I used a piece of wood to scrape the piston top.
I also cleaned the carbon ring at the cylinder top - it felt really good when I was done.
The engine runs super-strong with all the sensors replaced and all vacuum leaks addressed. The trickiest one to find was at the cruise-control in the front fender - but I found it! That one brought my idle speed from 900 RPM to 750 with GT cams.
I soaked a few more pistons today. Just one left in the hopper. In the meantime, I inspected the bores. They all look good to me, no scratches I can feel with a fingernail. Here are the pics, I shot each side of the cylinder, starting with #1 and progression to 8
Nice work on your rebuild
I have a few thoughts for you to consider gleaned from the mistakes I have seen/ made
be careful wth the pistons the skirts are iron coated they will have a dull green hue when cleaned don’t use anything stronger than a toothbrush that chemical your using might be ok as long as it’s not left on too long
Note a machine shop ruined a set of pistons by letting them soak in their cleaning tank.
make sure to check the bores for roundness and check the deck for flat
if you decide to clean the head bolt thread s only use a bolt from the block with 3 flutes cut into the first few threads
use of a tap could remove metal from the block this will weaken the block
Note if you plan on getting the crank polished then the sludge traps should be removed and the passages cleaned out the new plugs tapped into the crank
otherwise minimal cleaning should be done so you don’t disturb the crud in the traps now as this can take out new bearing s after the first running to temp
Note without removing the sludge trap their is no way to know if you got all the crud out
espec after getting the crank polished
06-17-2024, 10:45 PM
