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If you go to studs that means you cannot pull the heads without pulling the engine first. Think there was a reason to Porsche in the '87 and up went to bolts rather than studs. Maybe you'll never have to pull the heads ever again. That could happen.
The engine block and pistons are at the engine builder/machine shop. They will inspecting and measuring the cylinder bores and pistons to the specifications. It will be good to have an experienced professional physically look the parts. Depending on what they find, this will drive decisions on what to do next.
WYAIT
While the engine components are being evaluated, I am turning my attentions to other "while you are in there" sorts of maintenance. I had a new high pressure power steering line in my parts bin, so I added a fire sleeve. The return line is at the hydraulic hose repair shop getting new flex hose ends crimped on. The ford motor mounts are still very new and in excellent condition and do not need to be replaced.
I took the opportunity to clean the condenser with some foaming cleaner. Copious abouts of dirt and detritious flowed out with the foam and rinsing. All that debris must have reduced the cooling performance. It will be interesting to see if there is a noticale improvement later. I recommend the foaming product below, it worked extremely well.
Ceramic Coating: I had the headers, X-pipe, and heat sheilds for the motor mounts ceramic coated with product design to absorb heat and they are back from the coaters.
Electrical Refurbishment: Next up will be to address some electrical harness repairs. The FOE harness needs lots of attention, several of the wires have cracks in the insulation and several others have been spliced and of course the wires to the oil pressure switch were in terrible condition. My plan is to rebuild a new harness.
The shielding on the fan harness has started to crack. The plan is to strip this sheathing and replace with an expandable woven harness sheathing that can deal with the high heat environments. Waiting on parts at the moment.
Last edited by Michael Benno; 07-06-2024 at 05:06 PM.
that looks clean, Mike.
they make a really nice cloth textured German tape, its made by Tesa 51036 tape on Amzon
its chemical resistant and made for hi heat environments, with hi abrasion resistance
perfect to wrap that broken harness shielding .
I just noticed,
if thats a metal clamp on the blue hose I would remove it.
If this is a good hose once its installed its difficult to remove without a clamp,
the metal clamps can deform the port since its just plastic,
and once it gets hot it will take on a new shape, and if its tight enough it can crack the plastic.
NOTE if you must have some sort of clamp then I suggest a small zip tie.
use 10 PSI max on motive tank pressures.
NOTE make sure you have put DC111 on the tank grommets,
this will prevent the metal bores from rusting and then eventually leaking past the grommets.
if thats a metal clamp on the blue hose I would remove it. If this is a good hose once its installed its difficult to remove without a clamp,
the metal clamps can deform the port since its just plastic,
and once it gets hot it will take on a new shape, and if its tight enough it can crack the plastic.
Yes, the engine bay cleaned up real nicely didn't it. Better than I expected. I put down cardboard on the ground and then I brushed on the Berryman Solvent used to clean the pistons. The solvent does a good job and removing dirt from the cosmoline, as well as softening it to the point it and be scrubbed off. Then I used a trick that @Zirconocene showed me, which is to use mineral sprits in a spray bottle and compressed air to "rinse off" I gave everything a coating of WD40 to prevent any corrosion. Electrial contacts and ground points all received DeOxit D3 cleaner and DeOxit Sheild.
Thanks for the call out on the clamp on the blue hose to the clutch master cylinder. I put that clamp on there based on another recommendation from someone in RL. I can't remember who. The blue hose was new in 2022 when I did the manual swap. I'll remove it and a zip tie. What do you think about using as constant tension clamp like this?
DC111 I have some DC111 and will add it to the grommets on the reservoir. Anthing else I should hit?
Harness Repairs: Regarding harnsee repairs, yes, I am familiar with the Tesa tape and have some in my harness repair supplies. It's great stuff and looks really nice. Also, some time ago Sean Ratt gave me some tips on harness supplies he uses, I still have a supply of those.
I have some questions about piston / bore clearance specifications. The WSM has the specification for pistons (99.980mm) and bores (100.000) and when I subtract the two number the clearance is 0.020mm clearance. But what are the wear limits on this specification. How much variance is allowed before piston upsizing is required?
06-28-2024, 04:29 PM
