There is continuity from V4 to #30.

I connected placed the red wire in V4 and the black wire in V8.

Car starts and runs. Customer reported the car would run for 5 minutes and quit. Let's see where this goes.

Thanks for the help getting this far.

Kevin

 

Spoke with David. He never removed that wire. And it requires a special tool and some effort to remove it from the connector.

So, I believe for whatever reason the wire was not secured in the connector and would lose continuity.

 

Kevin this is exactly what I was warning you of.
It happens when the connector is pushed onto the CE panel and one or more of the pins dont properly line up,
and then the connector is wiggled sideways this is enough to bend the small tabs that hold the connectors into the housing.
The result is the connector is pushed out of the housing just enough that its hard to see .but it will be disconnected.

Since you found these 2 being out,
it would be prudent to gently pull push every single wire to see if it comes out. If it does bent the lock tab out then install it.

If you use a good flashlight it will be easy to see if other wires have pushed out but still look like they are in .

 

You were right.

It is not a coincidence that #'s 4 and 8 were loose.

The connector in question was never removed, but somewhere in the misty dim somebody did exactly what you described.

All the other wire are seated - I looked at the edge of the connector to verify it.

Kevin.

 

Got the car back from Kevin and drove it from Atlanta to Auburn, AL running great and felt like FINALLY after 9 months the problem solved. Drove it total of around 200 miles with no problem with engine until coming home from work (25mi) and 13 miles from home can loses power, dash lights etc all working but no engine, no sputtering just quits running. pull over and call for a wrecker noticed fuel pump not working when key engaged.. switch out fuel pump relays, and with Kevin's suggestion looked at fuse 22 which looked fine but after looking at the fuse engine started. called wrecker that I had the car started and drove the 13 miles home. when I got home and cut the car off, it would not restart. again no fuel pump noise. So every time I have tried to start car since, about a dozen times; it starts right up and runs fine. I re deoxed the fuse panel and brushed contacts. cleaned fuses all were quite tight and none had discoloration or corrosion on them put and new fuse in 22. but old one looked like new. Any other ideas? david

 

Ok. Let's assume there's nothing wrong with the fuel pump for now.

Fuel pump is triggered from distributor and supplied through the green wire while the engine is spinning.

The fuel pump primes on the 5th spade of the fuel pump relay. David hears the fuel pump on the key turn we have to assume that the relay is working. I believe you mentioned that he'd swap that relay and the car still did not start.

We know that the green wire has been replaced with one supplied by Roger. What we don't know is if the green wire connection to the distributor is firmly seated to the distributor. Perhaps there's a chance it's loose.

So, let's start by looking at where the green wire connects to the distributor. A simple visual inspection should let us know that if the green wire came with that spacer that sometimes is included we need to make sure that that little black spacer is gone and the connector is firmly against the distributor body.

If the green wire proves to be correctly connected at the distributor and where it connects along the passenger tower then we have to consider the possibility that the ignition box underneath the passenger fender could be the culprit. To this point, I know that David had been offered a working unit and that if the working unit proved to resolve the issue that the vendor would take back the non-working unit. So, maybe we start with the known good ignition box.

I'm open to other suggestions. But it is impossible to diagnose when the car is running. And nobody likes to do diagnosis on the side of the road when it dies.

 

Tomorrow morning after prayer! I'm going to drive it to a friends house who has offered his lift and change the oil, take a look at the grounds under the car (both rear and forward ground straps were replace a year ago) and with the car hopefully running manipulate the fuse panel, fuel pump etc to see if I can find a short or lack of ground. The green wire was replaced during the troubleshoot for this problem which did not change anything. Would love to solve this problem for this is a great car when it is running and a whole lot has been done to it to get it to being a reliable daily driver. Wife has never liked the car and is concerned about my mental health. Each time I leave she is left wondering what wrecker service is going to bring me home, and I am wondering is she going to be there if I do get home;^). david

 

What is the build date (month/year) of your 1980? 5-speed or automatic? My 1980 (built 10/79) does not run the fuel pump until the key is in the start/cranking position, so I wonder if your wiring has been modified sometime in the past, and that is contributing to your issue?

 

The other thing you can do is wire a switched jumper for the fuel pump relay. Turn it on when ready to start the car and drive - turn it off when you shut the car off. That'll run the fuel pump whenever the switch is on and eliminate the pump itself as a possible fault. If it never has the issue with the relay jumpered, could be the relay or the green wire.

 

I think it was built early 80 , and when car is running properly the fuel pump runs when ignition key turned on. It is a manual. I replaced the green wire with one from roger. but problem did not change. I am going to drive it tomorrow and if it cuts off will jumper the fuel pump relay and see if that solves the problem. I had thought about direct wiring the fuel pump and may just do that. This is a former California car for thirty years and spent the last 10 in garage in Ga mostly not running when I bought it. no corrosion. thanks david

 

Just to be clear you do have a fresh fuel pump relay ,
and fuel injection relay installed.
Spray the wires that plug into
the fuse connectors along the back side top of the CE panel..

Verify you have the connectors to the temp sensor installed on the bottom of the air cleaner housing and ICV connected properly,
test for voltage with the key on ,
the temp sensor should see about 5 V the ICV should be battery or 12v

 

Have fresh fuel pump relay, no fuel injection relay on my 80. when I had the panel pulled out deoxed all the wires in the rear and saw no corrosion. I will have to look a the temp sensor tomorrow under the airnbox. the airbag was loose when I got it back from atlanta from broken straps the sensor wires could be disconnected david