ErnestSw

Got the clutch slave and starter dropped and got the exhaust bolts out with the help of a liberal application of Liquid Wrench and the help of a 240 ft/lb electric impact wrench I picked up at Pep Boys. The exhaust is now held up by two bolts and the air pump line, which I'm finding a bitch to loosen.
My question involves the O2 sensor. I understand that it's on the top of the "crotch" of the exhaust and that I've got to drop the exhaust a little bit to get at the connection.
My question is how far can I drop the exhaust with the O2 sensor connected and, after the O2 sensor is removed will the exhaust drop all the way to the floor without undoing something in the rear?

mpesik

Hi Mr. Earnest .Question 1=4" above floor .After that you start pulling on the wire. Question 2=yes. Mike.

ErnestSw

Thanks Mike.

worf928

Why not just disconnect the O2 sensor from the connection in the passenger footwell? That way you can have all the slack in the wire you want.

As for the airpump line - since you are under the car already you could unbolt the airpump valve from the passenger side of the block to get more movement out of the exhaust.

Garth S

If you disconnect the air injection line near the CAT, look very carefully at which way the gland nut (of the fitting) should turn: It's right hand, but 'upside down' IIRC, so there is a tendancy to turn the wrong way.

ErnestSw

Dave,
I wish I'd thought of that. Thanks, worked like a charm.
Garth,
Picture me laying on my back with my hand in the air trying to figure which way is lefty loosey while looking at the connection from the wrong end.
I dood it!

John Struthers

Ern,
Do keep us updated on the clutch removal -do you have to pull the clutch to get at the throw-out bearing?- .
I'm sure it will be a source of amusement for us and a re-enforcement -mentally- for you when you put that puppy back together. Personally,
I'd go ahead and just drop the exhaust altogether.
You can drag it out of the way giving you a lot more room to work.
The rear hangers are on with allens, at least on mine.
From reading your earlier post on getting the sHARk off the ground I bet you wish you had an electric/hydraulic lift about now.
But I guess with a trashed throwout bearing ramps would have been out of the question, too.
I have all sorts of lumber around here including some cut down pieces of railroad ties. When I had Pattycakes up I had all manner of wood products running down the stiffening rail on the driverside and the wheels up on either jacks or wood ramps on the pass. side, depending on what I was tinkering with. You need one side 'open' to get under easily. Don't forget when you are jacked up if you open and close the doors they WILL DRAG as the frame was not designed for flex that way. I also have a full compliment of carpets and runners to go along with large sheets of cardboard for when I'm cleaning and spraying stuff. It's also a big plus to just drop parts, tools, hardware, and cleaning rag then just drag the carpet/cardboard out and pick everything up at once.
Keep us posted !

mpesik

Mr. Worf928-Just answering the question-neither mor nor less. Mike.

worf928

Red UFO

ErnestSw,

I put a piece of wood to hold up the exhaust, then used a needle nose visegrips to losen the O2 sensor.

When it was time to let down the cluth. I had a piece of wood 4x10 and a small coffee can. I put the wood under the clutch and the coffe can on top of the wood. When the clutch starts to come down the coffee can wedged into the clutch teeth and it stops it from falling on your face until your ready to take it out.

soontobered84

Ernest,
Let me know if you need a second set of hands. Just give me a call.
John Curry

Old & New

Did you find one, and why do you think she would be better suited to do the job than you?

SharkSkin