jthwan22

What is the reason to cut the gasket? Can you just fish around the oil pick up tube?

dr bob

Drop the pan, and you'll easily b able to fit the new gasket without any cutting. Get one of the newer-style silicone gaskets, and a stud kit with the correct nuts to make your installation better than new.

jthwan22

I am thinking of doing this job with out dropping the cross frame member. From what everyone said, dropping it is a long and hard job. The motor mount was done by the PO and he is not sure about the steering rack bushing. I tighten some of the 10mm bolt on the oil pan that I can get to. It was very loose but it still leaks. So you think I can do this gasket job without cutting it or dropping the cross frame?

Bill51sdr

Yes it can be done without removing the crossmember & it is documented here somewhere. Check the archives, is my best advice. This has the added attraction of not having to redo the alignment once the job is done.

ROG100

Hi Bill,
The alignment is not changed by removing the cross member.
IIRC we did Shock's GTS without removing the crossmember and this was the first time the silicone oil pan gasket was used. So at least on the later cars this can be done without cutting the gasket.
Roger

Bill51sdr

The way I did it, it was!!

dr bob

Give your old motor mounts the finger test (between the safety hooks on the brackets) to test the PO's claim about mount replacement.

While it may be possible to replace the sump gasket without dropping the crossmember, it's going to be a CHORE. It's a chore getting all the old gasket off the block and sump. It's a chore making sure that NONE of the old gasket material drops into the sump, where there's a risk of plugging oil pickup screen. And it's a chore fishing the new gasket into the sump, under and around the oil pump pickup, and into place on top of the sump before installation back to the block. It's a chore getting to all the sump bolts with the crossmember still in place. It's a chore getting everything clean under there before you start so crud doesn't get into the sump.

The amount of work involved is the same, except that to drop the crossmember you need to undo the steering shaft from the wheel, and the suspension bolts that hold the lower suspension arms to it. You'll lower the rack after removing the hose connections, and you'll support the motor from the top wheile the crossmember is unbolted from the bottom. To get the sump off, you'll drain the oil, remove the filter, the starter motor and wiring, plus the clutch slave and its plumbing if you were suckered in to buying a manual trans car. Then there are over 11 little bolts that hold the sump to the block. Six of those bolts are very easy to remove, the rest with varying degrees of difficulty, identified by the various languages used by folks removing them. Hint-- take the hardest bolts out first so the sump stays up nice and high while you get your wrenches and fingers into the smaller spaces.

While many will tell you that you won't need an alignment after dropping the crossmember and the rack, I'm here suggesting that you have it done when you get it all together. Things moved around on mine just enough to be noticeable after the job. Now, after spending a bit of DIY time getting the alignmnet dialed in perfectly, it's easy to see how just the slightest amount of movement in any component under there would have an effect on alignment.


Oh, and the person who came up with the idea of using plastic cable ties to hold the gasket to the sump deserves a medal. GREAT idea! Get things up into place with a lot of the bolts just started, trim the plastic ties amd remove the evidence, and then install and snug the rest of the bolts. Way too easy that way.

Bill Ball

I agree that alignment can change. The lower control arms must be unbolted from the body to drop the crossmember, and the locating bushings for the arms allow a visible amount of varibility in location. You could make some marks, but I've found it a real pain to get the arm back exactly where it was. Then there is the process of settling the arm before you torque it up that allows movement. It's mostly fore-aft variation, and that effects toe, which is very critical and really needs to be dead-on right.

I wish I had thought of or knew of the tie-wrap through the pan bolt holes for holding the gasket in place during pan installation! Good tip.

ROG100

It was either Shocki or John (soontobered) who came up with the idea of the tie wraps - can't remember.

Never had a problem with the alignment - checked before and after - lots of times - guess we were lucky 8>)

Dr Bob - you are so right, it is probably easier in the long run to remove the Xmember. Thats what I do

John Veninger

So what is the cost of silicone oil pan gaskets?

Vilhuer

https://www.928gt.com/ps-40362-73-oi...-silicone.aspx

John Veninger

Thanks!

Mike Simard

I just installed a 928sRus silicon gasket and was very happy with it, a very nicely made peice that fit perfectly

ROG100

Mine are $42 as we had a price increase before Xmas from the supplier.
Dave & Jeannies price is good at $38.75 - get them before there price goes up 8>)

Schocki

Roger,

It must have been John. We didn't use tie wraps.
It was easy enough...
The only thing I would REALLY recommend is a 10mm gear wrench. That baby saves you so much time, it's worth every penny.