Rubber gasket at back of thermostat housing: friction fit or needs adhesive?
#16
Craic Head
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Tom,
I agree if the T-stat is bad or the seal is missing. But disagree with the suggestion that a lower temp t-stat is going to fix his temp situation when sitting in traffic. He said his original diagnosis/question was based on the T-stat being the 'stock' temp and he wanted to go lower. My assertion is that if the stock t-stat is working as advertised and he's having this problem, the issue isn't going to be solved by changing to a lower temp t-stat.
I agree if the T-stat is bad or the seal is missing. But disagree with the suggestion that a lower temp t-stat is going to fix his temp situation when sitting in traffic. He said his original diagnosis/question was based on the T-stat being the 'stock' temp and he wanted to go lower. My assertion is that if the stock t-stat is working as advertised and he's having this problem, the issue isn't going to be solved by changing to a lower temp t-stat.
#18
tstat
the small hole is the jiggle pin, should be at 12 oclock. it is an air bleeder.
my question is this, when i installed the rear seal, and tstat, i can see a gap, so i assume the coolant when cold circulates thru the rear seal and the block and not the rad.
when temp is reached then the tstat expands? and closes that gap and seals with the rear seal?
my question is this, when i installed the rear seal, and tstat, i can see a gap, so i assume the coolant when cold circulates thru the rear seal and the block and not the rad.
when temp is reached then the tstat expands? and closes that gap and seals with the rear seal?
#19
Yep...that's the way it works..
the small hole is the jiggle pin, should be at 12 oclock. it is an air bleeder.
my question is this, when i installed the rear seal, and tstat, i can see a gap, so i assume the coolant when cold circulates thru the rear seal and the block and not the rad.
when temp is reached then the tstat expands? and closes that gap and seals with the rear seal?
my question is this, when i installed the rear seal, and tstat, i can see a gap, so i assume the coolant when cold circulates thru the rear seal and the block and not the rad.
when temp is reached then the tstat expands? and closes that gap and seals with the rear seal?
#20
True on the surface...but when I put my lower temp t-stat in...the car ran cooler (gauge) in all conditions I drove.. I don't sit much in traffic, and yes, when sitting in stop and go traffic in Wichita last OCIC (100 degrees plus), the temp gauge was where it was before I added the lower temp tstat....
I like the lower temp t-stat simply because it starts working sooner and the "ramp" up to operating temperature is slowed (for my usual driving patterns).
For colder environments, this might not be good...especially if you have a shorter drive..
I like the lower temp t-stat simply because it starts working sooner and the "ramp" up to operating temperature is slowed (for my usual driving patterns).
For colder environments, this might not be good...especially if you have a shorter drive..
Tom,
I agree if the T-stat is bad or the seal is missing. But disagree with the suggestion that a lower temp t-stat is going to fix his temp situation when sitting in traffic. He said his original diagnosis/question was based on the T-stat being the 'stock' temp and he wanted to go lower. My assertion is that if the stock t-stat is working as advertised and he's having this problem, the issue isn't going to be solved by changing to a lower temp t-stat.
I agree if the T-stat is bad or the seal is missing. But disagree with the suggestion that a lower temp t-stat is going to fix his temp situation when sitting in traffic. He said his original diagnosis/question was based on the T-stat being the 'stock' temp and he wanted to go lower. My assertion is that if the stock t-stat is working as advertised and he's having this problem, the issue isn't going to be solved by changing to a lower temp t-stat.
#21
Craic Head
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True on the surface...but when I put my lower temp t-stat in...the car ran cooler (gauge) in all conditions I drove.. I don't sit much in traffic, and yes, when sitting in stop and go traffic in Wichita last OCIC (100 degrees plus), the temp gauge was where it was before I added the lower temp tstat....
I like the lower temp t-stat simply because it starts working sooner and the "ramp" up to operating temperature is slowed (for my usual driving patterns).
For colder environments, this might not be good...especially if you have a shorter drive..
I like the lower temp t-stat simply because it starts working sooner and the "ramp" up to operating temperature is slowed (for my usual driving patterns).
For colder environments, this might not be good...especially if you have a shorter drive..
I just want to make sure anyone following along understands the function of properly functioning T-stats of two different temps is exactly the same when fully warmed up, or at least they should be.
#22
the one with less water (e.g. stock thermostat that stays closed longer keeping the volume of coolant in the block longer)...will boil first.....
the one with more water will take longer to boil....(t-stat forces water in block to mix with cooler water in rad sooner giving a cooling effect from both volume and the efficiency of the rad)...
but in the end... you are correct... and both pots end up boiling
#23
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Im not disputing that... but the way I look at the cooling system is like this (poor analogy, but best I can think of at the moment)...two pots of water on the stove..one 2 quarts...the other 4 quarts.....both burners on high..
the one with less water (e.g. stock thermostat that stays closed longer keeping the volume of coolant in the block longer)...will boil first.....
the one with more water will take longer to boil....(t-stat forces water in block to mix with cooler water in rad sooner giving a cooling effect from both volume and the efficiency of the rad)...
but in the end... you are correct... and both pots end up boiling
the one with less water (e.g. stock thermostat that stays closed longer keeping the volume of coolant in the block longer)...will boil first.....
the one with more water will take longer to boil....(t-stat forces water in block to mix with cooler water in rad sooner giving a cooling effect from both volume and the efficiency of the rad)...
but in the end... you are correct... and both pots end up boiling
#24
Drifting
The Porsche engineers designed the engine to run at a certain operating engine temperature. This final temperature is the most efficient and environment friendly. Why would you want the engine to take longer to get to it's preferred/designed operating temperature?
#25
I'm guessing that their final preferred/designed operating temperature was more suited to fuel economy ...over performance.. But just a SWAG..
#26
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The hotter an internal combustion engine is, the more efficient it is. Unfortunately we have to live with materials that melt before the efficiency is 100%. Being more efficient means a cleaner burn. If it wasn't for cold starts the cat would not be needed at all as, when the engine is hot and running normally it burns clean. The cat 'burns' unburnt fuel (think WOT or start-up) and other than that it runs perfect.
#27
Ok so today after replacing my t stat I drove the car to work. Same route and conditions. The highway temps were much lower and the in town stoplight never saw the 2/3 mark. Since I have a 944 and it behaves the same after a complete drivetrain rebuild, I will call this one done. I also consulted with an expert here In Phoenix, Jack at Stutgart Southwest on Tempe. He told me he has seen some cars with them and some without, He has rarely seen any difference in the operation. He did suggest any further work should revolve around the Clutch fan. I read a article online about rebuilding the clutch fan. I am going to look into this as well. However, I wont replace the Fan clutch, I would install a Electric fan kit instead.
#28
Nordschleife Master
Early cars don't have it (I think it was only fitted from '84? certainly 83 "Euro" don't have it)
#29
Rennlist Member
Why would you put a flush kit in the car? Simply open the block drains and your coolant will be all out.