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I've decided to touch up my car rather than a full respray. I'm pretty comfortable with a rattle-can and am happy with the product I got from touch-up-direct.
The hood is faded and chipped, it may have had a bad respray in the past. So, I'm going to spray it myself.
Questions:
1) Should I strip it first? Or just fill the chips with body filler?
2) Can anyone recommend a good primer in a rattle-can for this purpose? Would it require one intended for aluminum?
If the paint on the hood has failed, rattle canning over it is just going to make it worse.
Sand the old paint off, you can use a random orbital with 220 grit paper on it.
Prime with a high build primer, then sand that flat using 220, then 400, then 600 grit wrapped around a flat block of wood, or splurge for a proper sanding block. Spend 90% of your time on this step, the primer should be almost shiny or your paint's going to look like crap.
Most paint shops can make you an aerosol can of the proper paint code, shoot that and then clear with a 2K catalyzed gloss clear that's compatible with the base coat. Let the clear coat cure for a couple days then sand 1500, 2000, 3000, and then polish it out.
Get a good 3m mask and mask filters. You can make a paint booth with a pop up awning and cover the sides with disposable plastic sheeting. Make sure temp is not too hot or paint and clear will dry too fast for proper adhesion. Also if using custom mixed base coat rattle cans and 2k clear coat cans you need to make sure the full cans are used to paint surfaces from overhead. Painting from the side is where to use less than full cans. Surface prep is very important
Last edited by gbgastowers; 04-14-2023 at 12:22 AM.
Send me an email about this and I will tell you what I think. I won't post it here. jfeather@bresnan.net. I have done something somewhat similar recently I think it will help.
You would need to take the hood off and spray it from an angle. Hood will be a tough one but it can be done. Maybe trial and error. You also have to consider blending into the fenders if color demands this for match
I had surface rust on roof of a 79 project but rest of red car responded well to a polish.
So, i prepped and painted roof with rattle can "peelable" paint in flat black. Like everyone has said,prep is key.
I sanded off surface rust with 200 or 300 dry. Then 400 wet. Then 2000 wet. Hand sanding block.
For my app, no primer just flat black paint. First coat thin, just to tack things, not cover. Probably 3 more slower coverage coats, 75% overlap. 3 cans, the more applied the better it looked--no streaks. Looks fantastic for about $40 plus time. Has held up well. One million times better than before.
I’m sure it won’t look worse than what the PO did with my 82….used a home sprayer and Home Depot classic white….(yes, house paint)…was a 10 footer, but after 5-years, it’s starting to peel off….
I’m sure it won’t look worse than what the PO did with my 82….used a home sprayer and Home Depot classic white….(yes, house paint)…was a 10 footer, but after 5-years, it’s starting to peel off….
Peeling after five years? Home Depot is losing their game....
sand down past the crapped out part of the paint....you don't have to go to primer or metal if you sand and there's still good paint. spray about 5 coats from your cans. color/wet sand to super super fine grit...make sure it's totally flat...not orange peel. spray with 2k rattle can clear. 3 coats ish. wet sand, buff....then it will look better than new.
Well... other than the "awful idea" reply, this all is useful. Hopefully that was in reference to house paint. THank you all for the insightful comments! I am confident its going to look better than it does now
Well... other than the "awful idea" reply, this all is useful. Hopefully that was in reference to house paint. THank you all for the insightful comments! I am confident its going to look better than it does now
I've done a ton of paint & body. as long as it's not metallic, its actually super easy. to get a show finish, always color/wet sand and buff. if you're using a rattle can, be aware that the paint is just not very good...it fades pretty quickly UNLESS you cover it with a 2k (two part exoxy paint) clear. with that said, i would suggest going to harbor freight and getting a TOUCH UP pneumatic spray gun...i think they're about $25. And, and inline air filter...probably $5ish...this plugs in upstream of your paint gun and catches the water and oil that are coming from your compressed air (this is super important). Have a local automotive paint supplier mix a quart of 2k paint to match your color. They'll hook you up with the correct reducer and hardener based on the temperature you expect when you spray. the touch up gun sprays a VERY light coat, very atomized...it will lay down the paint much more smoothly than a rattle can, and the paint is light years better. In any case, COLOR SAND AND BUFF...that's what gives you the superior show finish.
I've literally (this will freak out the purists) brushed 2k paint on areas where i was touching up....color/wet sanding smooths it perfectly, and buffing will make your finish perfect. the pic below is a fender that i painted with a $15 hvlp gun from harbor freight...it left horrible orange peel, but that doesn't matter because i knew i was going to color/wet sand and buff. for prep i sanded the paint to where i knew is was past the oxidized junk....didn't go down to primer except in a few places...if the paint is bonded well, there's no need to go to metal....going to metal means using an etching primer and adds a lot of effort. i wiped it with lacquer thinner, let it dry for an hour or so, and sprayed the paint. after sanding/buffing i could easily read news print in the reflection.