Check this thread out.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rges-ljet.html

 

Pete, I read through the post but instead of my car idling high, it slowly idles too low and stalls. I looked at my "new" AAV and has the same part number as the original. I'm hooking up gauges again tomorrow.

 

A K-Jet AAV in an L-Jet car will cause it to idle high like in that thread. An L-Jet AAV in a K-Jet car would cause it to idle low. I'd remove the AAV test it in the freezer and look through it to see what aperture profile it has compared to those 2 photos in that thread.

 

I have another AAV, same part number 0280140211 out of the car. I’ll get a pic of the aperture but I believe it looked like a crescent moon. Shouldn’t I be trying to fine one that has the same part number that was in the PET or were there numerous iterations?

 

I think that thread I referenced has different part numbers than the ones you posted here so there may be more than just two part numbers but I don't know for sure.

 

Wow that looks great,
lots of hard work was done here.
The fuel lines are terrific and all of the clamps look perfect.

FWIW the coil wire should clip onto the front of the timing cover (see the hole for the clip?)
running the coil wire on the cam tower could cause it to short out.

For the running try turning the idle screw out CCW
smell the exhaust does it smell rich or lean,
if lean then a small turn 1/8 CW of the mixture screw might be in order,
then readjust the idle.

 

thanks for your thoughts. Do you happen to know where I can get a clip for the coil wire?

 

Gray omega clip, 477 971 851

Have you verified 12V to the WUR? At the risk of sounding like Jim Bailey, fuel pressures, fuel pressures, fuel pressures. Everything else is a distraction until they're correct.

 

I’m going to double check tomorrow but I don’t get 12v until the car starts. If I just turn the key to the 2nd position, I don’t gat a reading at either the WUR or aav

 

The aux air valve part numbers are a little confusing to me, there are at least 4. I think the below is correct:

The old parts book (January 1980) says the 930 606 102 00 is for ROW '78/79s, while 928 606 102 00 is for US '78/79s., while 928.606.102.01 is for 1980, which is Bosch 0 280 140 219.


The Bosch cross-reference book for 930 606 102 00 (Euro 78/79) is 0 280 140 204. My US '79 has an 0 280 140 211, pretty sure it's original.




The US '80-84 L-jet uses 928 606 102 02, dunno if that's a supercession from 102 01, or if it's a separate part.

The AAV for the M28.11/12 motor is also 930 606 102 00. So all the Euro CIS cars use the same 930 ("204") AAV, and the US cars use the "211" AAV.

The M28.21/22 '84 uses 928 606 102 03, Bosch 0 280 140 "228".

 

Plastic Omega Clip Inside diameter 8.0mm, panel hole 6.0mm, in grey

 

So I have the “211”. With the recommendation of @Rob Edwards i purchased the below “idiot” light. (Perfect for me )
So with the ignition turned to the second position, the light did not come on. Neither the AAV plug or the WUR plug lit the light. I know I have 12v to both with the car running but not without the car running. Thoughts? I had a small “issue” with the fuel testing today so I need to track down a new WUR hardline. Ugh

 

They really only need to work when the car is running so that's probably fine.

 

I‘m not sure if the air valve isn‘t the source of the lean stuttering of the S cars.
500 € is a little bit expensive for try and error.

 

Very Nicely Done! That doesn’t even look like the same engine bay from when Eric owned it. Great work buddy!