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I would verify timing.
Ensure firing order / wires align.
Then, make sure other equipment is properly installed, beginning with harmonic balancer.
It should be green color, and markings are oriented in proper reading position when viewed from front of car facing engine.
Distributors are connected to each other with a miniature cogged belt. One distrbutor gets driven by camshaft, the other is slaved via that belt. Rotor buttons should align with respective mark on ea distrib body, so the slaved distrib is in synch.. Caps need to be clean, same with rotor buttons.
Then I'd pull the two inspection covers to ensure timing marks on back edges of gears face correct marks on backing covers when harmonic balancer is at TDC.
I'd also polish the grounds at both places on passenger side cam cover.
I generally check those boxes first regarding misfiring. There are some really oddball things that can happen, for instance, broken cam snouts that still function. But verify the basics.
I have parts on the way and hope to get them this week.
I couldn't find a good write-up/video on replacing the FPR's. Is there a way to get the pressure off the fuel lines before replacing the regulators?
After it sits overnight pressure should be no problem. I saw the twin to this car in my city a few days ago.
On 16V cars, use a spark plug socket, a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, then a 1/4 extension, then a step up adapter to your ratchet or breaker bar. I found on our 84 Euro that the small diameter extension made the difference in clearance.
On 16V cars, use a spark plug socket, a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, then a 1/4 extension, then a step up adapter to your ratchet or breaker bar. I found on our 84 Euro that the small diameter extension made the difference in clearance.
My 3/8" with long wobble extension and spark plug socket fits right between the legs for plug removal and both my cars have the larger Euro legs. You don't slide them in from the top though, but rather in from the side since the space between legs opens up at the head side.
The tool in the toolkit works fine for spark plugs. There's indeed not too much room, and some plugs must go horizontally between the spider legs before entering their destination.
My problem is with the venturi tube between legs 7-8. Also, I won't force the stuck plug out, I really don't want to break it.
I've installed the new FPR's today. Checked for leaks and did a test drive. Nothing out of the ordinary. Starts up and runs smoothly, idles around 800rpm.
I've also put in new oil (+ filter) and noticed the last workshop probably overtightened the plug. I had to put too much force on it the get it loose, and the thread was coming with the plug.
I screwed it back in and tightened it, but it's dripping now. I'll bring the car to a shop to rethread the hole. We had an oil pump available and sucked out the oil through the dipstick hole instead.
I still have pops and bangs on the overrun. Not when just releasing the gas pedal, then it just slows down as it should; but when I put it in a lower gear, it starts popping away.
My cheap amazon fuel pressure gauge is going back to amazon. The 15mm hex connections are too large for my 15mm wrench, and way too small for the 16mm wrench. The connector would also not easily bolt on the fuel rail, so I did not force it on. There's something seriously wrong with the gauge set. I'll order a new one from a more expensive brand.
Long story short, I wasn't able to check pressure.
In preparation of my injector and damper and regulator change I pull this evening MAF and Air filter. From the look of the corrosion on the fuel tubes and the damper plus regulators this pieces are as old as the car.
I have a little amount of oil in the v tube under the MAF. Engine has new rings. Looks like there was fuel in the oil, the little lake was bigger in the past.
I Hope I bought not the same
I sent back my tester and bought another one. It arrived today.
Fuel pressure seems ok:
- 2.6 bar (38 psi) when jumping the fuel pump (engine not running)
- 2-2.1 bar (30 psi) with engine idle
- pressure goes up when revving, then drops below en goes back to 2.1 bar at idle
- pressure remains after shutdown, it even increases a little over the first few minutes (up to 2.35 bar / 34 psi) as the vacuum fades on the regulators I guess. 20 minutes later, still 2 bar (29 psi) in the fuel rails.
For what I've read, these appear to be normal values. Injectors seem to be not leaking.
Last fuel tank lasted a little longer, still 20.6 l/100km (11.4 mpg). That is a solid 10% increase in fuel economy, but still way worse than Darklands 500-550km/tank (what is that, 14.5-16 l/100km?)
I must admit, no long distance yet, at most 30 minutes a piece.
I want to take it out on NYE, as we're spending the night with friends 135km away. I don't like the rain though, especially now that my ABS sensor died. Still deciding if I should take it out or not.
I'll leave the car at a 928 mechanic shortly after New Year (also 120km away). I need some leaks fixed and will have it diagnosed further.
Is there an easy directory of WYAIT jobs? My steering rack leaks and the oil pan may need a new gasket too.
For comparison, here's the mpg tracker on my 84 Euro S 310 HP twin dizzy. When multiple fuel stops occur in the same date, that's a highway trip where the car is running 85-90 mph most of the time. The 22.44 entry seems out of range, so maybe recorded something incorrectly on that one, but without doing the match, looks like I'm averaging around 17-18 mpg for all these entries.
20,6 l / 100 km is Full Speed on the Autobahn. Very strange.
That's 11.4 mph which seems normal if running autoahn speeds.
At my 90 mph highway speed I'm running about 2,800 rpm with the 4-speed Auto that's in my car. This was lower rpm than my 81 Euro S 5-speed would run at the same speed in 5th.
12-04-2022, 10:18 PM
