Oil spray all over engine bay (also white smoke from exhaust) '84 Euro 5sp
#32
Instructor
Thread Starter
The invoice (from Egerer in Roth, Germany) mentions a set of injectors for €850 + VAT + labour. (As can be seen in the pictures above, they have an orange ring.) There are also NGK spark plugs installed.
I just went out and checked, my dipstick does smell a bit like fuel. (A bottle of fresh oil has no smell at all.)
If i look up the symptoms of fuel in the oil, there's white smoke in the exhaust (which I have), oil level way above maximum (which I had), low oil pressure (which I don't have, the needle is all the way to the top, slightly above 5 bar when driving or cold idle, hot idle is around 3 bar), smell of fuel while driving (did not notice).
Nearest workshop with 928 experience is 120km away. The no driving comment has me scared!
I just went out and checked, my dipstick does smell a bit like fuel. (A bottle of fresh oil has no smell at all.)
If i look up the symptoms of fuel in the oil, there's white smoke in the exhaust (which I have), oil level way above maximum (which I had), low oil pressure (which I don't have, the needle is all the way to the top, slightly above 5 bar when driving or cold idle, hot idle is around 3 bar), smell of fuel while driving (did not notice).
Nearest workshop with 928 experience is 120km away. The no driving comment has me scared!
Last edited by TM___; 11-24-2022 at 12:15 PM.
#33
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You need to change the oil before driving the car again. That contaminated oil is not going to lubricate your cylinder bores or anything else well.
To test if it's running on all 8, pull each spark plug wire one at a time while it's running and listen for a change in the motor. If you pull one and it makes no difference, that's the cylinder not firing.
To test if it's running on all 8, pull each spark plug wire one at a time while it's running and listen for a change in the motor. If you pull one and it makes no difference, that's the cylinder not firing.
#34
Former Sponsor
Leaky dampers or regulator diaphragms will consume copious amounts of fuel.
#35
Instructor
Thread Starter
I received my vacuum pump/tester today and I dived into my engine bay. The fuel damper (front) and regulators (rear) all hold their vacuum. But if I try to get a vacuum on their supply lines, there's no vacuum whatsoever. Since those lines are just coming from the throttle housing, and the engine is not running, that may very well be normal?
What I do get is a strong smell of fuel when I try to get vacuum from those lines going to the regulator/dampers. My throttle housing is also wet (as can be seen on some photos above), could this be fuel? It's not very greasy, but it has no strong smell either. There shouldn't be any 'loose fuel' anywhere right?
I also bought a fresh batch of oil and filter and will change it when it arrives. I'm not driving in the meanwhile.
(While removing the air filter box, I noticed that the MAF/LMM sits relatively loose in the throttle body. I don't see any way of securing it, so this may be the way it is supposed to sit? Once the air box is bolted down, it has nowhere to go, so I guess it's right.)
What I do get is a strong smell of fuel when I try to get vacuum from those lines going to the regulator/dampers. My throttle housing is also wet (as can be seen on some photos above), could this be fuel? It's not very greasy, but it has no strong smell either. There shouldn't be any 'loose fuel' anywhere right?
I also bought a fresh batch of oil and filter and will change it when it arrives. I'm not driving in the meanwhile.
(While removing the air filter box, I noticed that the MAF/LMM sits relatively loose in the throttle body. I don't see any way of securing it, so this may be the way it is supposed to sit? Once the air box is bolted down, it has nowhere to go, so I guess it's right.)
Last edited by TM___; 11-29-2022 at 12:08 PM.
#37
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
No, there should not be wet fuel anywhere in the engine bay, on hoses, or housings. We're the clamps that hold the spider body to the MAF assembly tight or is that the junction that just lifted apart?
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
The clamps #8 were fairly tight and a pain to get loose. The airbox had strong connection to the rubber #9.
The MAF (#23) was kind of loosely fit into the body #17. Taking the airbox out after slightly loosening clamps #8 above made the whole MAF come out too.
The top of the engine block (in between the V) is also kind of wet and has some light brown sludge. I didn't take pics unfortunately, and I closed it up before dark too.
I'll schedule an appointment with a skilled 928 mechanic, but he may not have time before the end of the year.
The MAF (#23) was kind of loosely fit into the body #17. Taking the airbox out after slightly loosening clamps #8 above made the whole MAF come out too.
The top of the engine block (in between the V) is also kind of wet and has some light brown sludge. I didn't take pics unfortunately, and I closed it up before dark too.
I'll schedule an appointment with a skilled 928 mechanic, but he may not have time before the end of the year.
#39
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
What about clamps 14 in photo 2?
#42
Former Sponsor
The only source of a fuel smell in the vacuum system is from the damper and the regulators.
Not uncommon to be fooled by vacuum testing the damper and regulators.
If they have fuel in them from a broken diaphragm, it is difficult to move all the fuel mass with vacuum.
With the damper and regulators disconnected from vacuum, jumper the fuel pump relay (87 to 30) and make the pump run.
Go look at the damper and regulators.
If not pouring fuel, use a small allen wrench as a dipstick to see if the front damper is leaking.
Not uncommon to be fooled by vacuum testing the damper and regulators.
If they have fuel in them from a broken diaphragm, it is difficult to move all the fuel mass with vacuum.
With the damper and regulators disconnected from vacuum, jumper the fuel pump relay (87 to 30) and make the pump run.
Go look at the damper and regulators.
If not pouring fuel, use a small allen wrench as a dipstick to see if the front damper is leaking.
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WestInc (01-02-2023)
#43
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've done some more testing and the regulators/damper also hold vacuum when the fuel pump is running. There's no fuel gushing out, but the regulator on the back of the engine (passenger side) is definitely getting wet on the nipple and it smells of fuel. The others are dry.
I took off the MAF and there was a puddle of (I think) partly dried up fuel in the bend. I cleaned it out before I took the photo below, but marked where it was. It smelled of fuel too, though not fresh (was before running the fuel pump too). The throttle housing is was also wet and shiny (not very visible on photo). But if my regulator is bad, it just sucks in fuel through the vacuum line.
While I was in there, I checked my spark plugs. I could only get 6 out, and all six looked more or less the same, quite black:
On cylinder 1, I could not get the spark loose. All others were not super tight, but this one didn't move. I applied quite a bit of force, but did not want to put too much force on it.
Cylinder 7 was not accessible. The breather hose (2-in-1) would not move. I loosened the clamps and could get it to move 1cm, but the hose is getting stuck between the spider legs and is impossible to get out.
If I disconnect the spark plug in cylinder 1, the engine is definitely running rougher, shaking the whole car.
So, I definitely need a new regulator. What about the spark plugs? Black means too rich. Would a new fuel pressure regulator solve this problem?
I took off the MAF and there was a puddle of (I think) partly dried up fuel in the bend. I cleaned it out before I took the photo below, but marked where it was. It smelled of fuel too, though not fresh (was before running the fuel pump too). The throttle housing is was also wet and shiny (not very visible on photo). But if my regulator is bad, it just sucks in fuel through the vacuum line.
While I was in there, I checked my spark plugs. I could only get 6 out, and all six looked more or less the same, quite black:
On cylinder 1, I could not get the spark loose. All others were not super tight, but this one didn't move. I applied quite a bit of force, but did not want to put too much force on it.
Cylinder 7 was not accessible. The breather hose (2-in-1) would not move. I loosened the clamps and could get it to move 1cm, but the hose is getting stuck between the spider legs and is impossible to get out.
If I disconnect the spark plug in cylinder 1, the engine is definitely running rougher, shaking the whole car.
So, I definitely need a new regulator. What about the spark plugs? Black means too rich. Would a new fuel pressure regulator solve this problem?
#45
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have parts on the way and hope to get them this week.
I couldn't find a good write-up/video on replacing the FPR's. Is there a way to get the pressure off the fuel lines before replacing the regulators?
I couldn't find a good write-up/video on replacing the FPR's. Is there a way to get the pressure off the fuel lines before replacing the regulators?