olmann

Wow. That’s not funny but at the same time it’s hilarious. Those are the kind of things that seem to plague me from time to time. I’ve seen that sleeve in there but never gave it any thought. I will now!

Landseer

It will be interesting to hear where the temp needle finally settles. My bet is normal will be a needle width above the first narrow white line, ie, angling slightly downward.

Speedtoys

Undertrays, airbox, and cowl cover going on today, tomorrow 20m breakin, oil change, test drive, windshield replacement.

khalloudy

Here in Saudi with the hot weather, its hard to keep it below the second white line when ambient temperature is at 120 and above. Now that the temp is between 80-100 the needle is a line or two above the first white line at night. That’s my observation at least.

Speedtoys

YES..drove home today, solved.

But now the temp gauge moves around a lot, seems to be impacted by how much 'vibration' is happening under the hood (WOT downshift runs, where 1 gear downshift has some impact, and 2 gear downshifts really annoy it)...

The 14pin plug was undone, I think Need to take a peek at it.

The sensor is perfect (has been tested in warming water) and the wire ends are also super fresh and perfect.

Mrmerlin

NOTE from your car is clean picture it makes me think you used a hi pressure washing unit to spray down the car.
I would pass on that.

NOTE I used one of these units at the car wash,
and sprayed my wheels,
only to find that a month later one of my front wheel bearings went bad due to rust.
The spray was able to get into the inner wheel bearing via the backing plate and the back of the rotor.

That said for your instrument issue,
spray deoxit 100 on the 14 pin connector .

NOTE I fitted a piece of innertube over my 14 pin to add increased water resistance ,
I made a small hole so the rubber also fits over the hot post,
with the hot post cover on you cant see the extra cover.

Speedtoys

I foam wash...and with treated water. I tested at 8TDH before the wash yesterday...so the tanks are still good.

No high pressure, just griots foam products...although this was one of maybe 2 times a year I have to use a 'sponge' on the surface..I abhor touching the surface to clean it.

Speedtoys

Sorry for the necropost..but one important thing here.

A "pressure washer" is high pressure at an unusually close distance.

So, unless you had a 5 degree tip on one, and had the hub apart, not buying the connection between "washing" with 0psi water causing a bearing issue.

Sometimes things just happen, and we make poor correlations to why they happen.

Even a 25degree tip, in an engine bay 2 feet away is barely more than a "strong spray". Water will WICK into unsealed connections on its own at this point.

Should we "wash" the bay? Sure, sometimes it's needed. But, there are challenges with how Porsche never sealed all but 1 or 2 electrical connections forward of the firewall, and "time". Water led to a failure of a thing under the hood, but..a fine mist would have done it too. (wicking)

Maybe the result of "it happened after washing" is a sign as much as anything else.

The Forgotten On

If it failed after washing it was probably marginal to begin with.

With how much corrosion the connections have after 30+ years it wouldn't surprise me that a strong blast of water would "upset" some of them.

Jason89s4

Too late now after all that, but I have three letters to solve your rad and cooling issues: C S F

The Forgotten On

It was a brand new OEM Behr IIRC that he installed. Definitely nothing marginal with that.

Jason89s4

I really don't want to rub any salt, but based on what I read in this thread, there certainly was something "marginal with that"

Speedtoys

A larger radiator solves no cooling problem a good OE radiator can't manage on it's own.

Speedtoys

The sleeve yes, radiator no.