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Tightening torques, help please

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Old May 3, 2004 | 11:10 PM
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Unhappy Tightening torques, help please

I'm closing back my engine and i'm not sure of the tightening torques for : oil pan , oil pump , water pump , manifolds etc. I found some in the shop manuals but it's not clear enough for me, and i want to be sure to do no mistakes.
Could someone give me a link or something that could help me with that ?
Thank's
P.S. i'm OK with the torque for the heads and the way to do it, That was clear enough for me in the manual !
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Old May 4, 2004 | 07:26 AM
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That information is in the Tech Spec Books.
List what you need and I'll look it up for you.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 09:56 AM
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Torque the oil pump bolts in two steps: 1st step = 15nm; 2nd step = 20nm

Oil pan bolts should be torqued to 6+2 nm

Water pump bolts to 6+2nm

M6 fasteners = 6+2nm
M8 fasteners = 10+2nm
M10 fasteners = 40+5nm


I'm not too sure about the exhaust manifold.

By the way, I'm in the process of assembling my engine as well. So far so good.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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Thank you very much hupp , is there a special way to torque the oil pan and water pump ?

John , do you know for the exhaust manifold ?
Thank's to you too !
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Old May 4, 2004 | 01:31 PM
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I would torque the oil pan by snugging all fasteners then torque by starting at the center of the pan, working from side to side out to each end.
Such a big area, will tend to flex easier if not torqued evenly.

Nothing special about the water pump. I would just tighten each bolt by 1/2 turn increments until properly torqued.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 04:50 PM
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I replaced the cork oil pan gasket 11 months ago (June 2003). It's
still bone dry with Mobil 1. Here's how I did it (from my prior post):

Instead of tightening the pan bolts using a torque wrench, I tightening
them to a prescribed number of turns, yielding an even amount of desired
gasket compression. A 31% compression was selected based on the original factory gasket installation, which still had an excellent seal in the
front of the engine. This compression is also consistent with the
compressibility ratings of many cork gasket materials I found on the
internet.

I purchased an Aftermarket gasket from 928 Intl. What they sold me was a
cork gasket with a nitrile (synthetic rubber) binder. My install method
will work on all cork gaskets regardless of the binder and no sealant is
required on the gasket seating surfaces or bolt threads.

Degrease and clean all oil pan bolts. After degreasing the engine sides
and pan gasket surfaces, clean all engine block threads with an aerosol
brake cleaner to remove any dirt or grease. Since some of the block bolt
threads can become contaminated while cleaning the sides of the engine,
it's important to run a bolt in each one to ensure that they are clean.

Use acetone or other strong solvent to remove any engine oil stains from
the gasket seating surfaces.

Install all bolts finger tight and so the gasket is snugly in place.

Mark the orientation of all bolt head tops with grease pencil.

Working around the engine in the same direction, tighten each bolt
sequentially 1/4 turn, until all bolts are 1 1/4 turn, except the last 1/4
turn should be done in 1/8 turn increments. You'll notice the tightening
will get progressively tighter, and the last 1/4 turn will be very tight.
Again, that's 1 1/4 turns each bolt. This is based on a new 4mm thick
gasket, and thread pitch of 0.1mm.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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Thank's to you guys , the job is done.
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